Light Meter problem or ME???

I've asked this question before in a different way... this time I'm trying to meter my lights and the meter reading I'm getting looks to have hot spots.. Please over look my model ... it's the best I could do this afternoon...

Right now I'm using a POLARIS meter.. I want to a Sekonic, but before I spend close to $300 I want to make sure it’s the meter and not ME.

at this point i'll welcome anything...

thanks,
william

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There's nothing wrong with your meter. The hot spot you're referring to is due to the highly reflective surface of the material that's used for the nose of your lovely model. Put some powder on it and that will take care of the hot spot (you may need to use black powder, though).

thanks... you know when you look at something so for so long.. it just starts to look wrong...

thanks again..
wm

Try manual in tough conditions. First set the f-stop & shutter speed you need. Then adjust the ISO.
Need an exposure crutch?

PhotosGuy wrote in post #6054566
Try manual in tough conditions. First set the f-stop & shutter speed you need. Then adjust the ISO.
Need an exposure crutch?

Good morning... when i shoot with studio lights I always shot in "M".. I set the lights back up yesterday afternoon and tried it again.... this time I had the softbox more forward so the light wasn't shining anywhere on me... I think this picure is a little better... (not the model.. ) I didn't use any fill light on this one becaues i just wanted to work on one problem at a time...

this picture is oof somewhat around the eyes but i did the best i could with me having to play all the roles.... hahahaha

thanks for your input...
wm

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I was going to suggest moving your lights a little. Note that in your photo taken at f14, the white legs are gray. Sooo.... the first image is the more correct. One of the reasons we use an incident meter is that it reads the ambient light instead of "thinking" that our subject matter is 18% gray (your camera's meter does this). Is the Polaris an incident meter? Does it have a white dome on it?
You can get your eyes in focus if you use a tube or box to pose on the stool while you focus and set up. You can autofocus, turn off autofocus, go around and shoot. Draw a face on the box, or whatever you use, so you can get the height right.

The only focus point you should be concerned with now is on the eyes?
I use C.Fn-13 (1) to put the focus points on my joystick (multi controller) which makes it easy to switch when things are moving fast or other situations where I need an off-center point.

Almost forgot: My 1-cent flash "meter" in images 5S & 6S.
Simple 2 Light Portrait Set-up

The hot spot is better than the gray whites in the second photo. But as said above, its reflective, its going to reflect. That is not a meter problem, or you.

Look at your photos again. Is the shiny spot really that bad? Especially when compared to the gray-ness of being under exposed? There will be shots you have to compromise. And there will be shots you have to pick one or the other. Just give them a over all look and you will figure it out.

WilliamL wrote in post #6055964
when i shoot with studio lights I always shot in "M"..

This is the problem you have to work on first!

The meter is not psychic. Even if you spot meter you still have to evaluate the over all subject. The light changes with the contour of the subject, so a spot meter can be as far off as the evaluative. Every meter reading has to be reconsidered. True adjustments may not be necessary, but you do need to consider all things before you press the button.

Mark1 wrote in post #6057375
This is the problem you have to work on first!

The meter is not psychic. Even if you spot meter you still have to evaluate the over all subject. The light changes with the contour of the subject, so a spot meter can be as far off as the evaluative. Every meter reading has to be reconsidered. True adjustments may not be necessary, but you do need to consider all things before you press the button.

That is why you use an incident meter.

Even incident meters need to be thought through. It all depends on how much light fall off you have on the subject. Now It does not take a hour of consideration, but a quick thought of how YOU want the shot as compared to how the meter wants the shot.