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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 07 Aug 2008 (Thursday) 14:52
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How much strobe power do I need?

 
Phil ­ Light
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Aug 07, 2008 20:58 |  #16

(I think I finally stumped Robert) :D


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TMR ­ Design
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Aug 07, 2008 21:07 |  #17

Phil Light wrote in post #6067415 (external link)
(I think I finally stumped Robert) :D

No Jeff,

Just doing a million things.

If I'm doing the math correctly we can take the numbers given and elaborate a bit. Doubling the distance increases aperture by 2 stops.

f/128 @ 3.3'
f/64 @ 6.6'
f/32 @ 13.2'
f/16 @ 26.4'
f/8 @ 52.8'


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Phil ­ Light
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Aug 07, 2008 21:19 |  #18

I think that's finally what I needed to know. That tells me that 1200ws would give me more than what I need. Assuming I would probably use something probably between f/2.8 - f/5.6, and I would not be opposed to shooting as high as 400 ISO. Then I could dial the power down and get a faster recycle time too.

Thanks Robert.


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Aug 07, 2008 21:24 as a reply to  @ Phil Light's post |  #19

Correct-a-mundo Jeff.

My pleasure.


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Aug 07, 2008 22:47 |  #20

jr_senator wrote in post #6066590 (external link)
I must admit I don't recall taking a portrait where the main lighting was 2-3' from the subject and I'm not sure this is common practice. I would consider my studio area small but the lighting is 7-10 (sometimes 12) feet away from the subject. I don't know what kind of lights you have but evidently you can't adjust the output.

Almost every single subject portrait that light is no farther than 3 ft away from subject. Quality of light is very important to me and usually with one person my softbox is just outta the view of the lens a B/G light and reflector for fill. But the quality is what I get first then dial in desired f/stop.

Also if you back the light up from 2 to 2.8 ft thats a one stop loss. From 2.8 to 4 ft thats another stop. 4 to 5.6 thats another. 5.6to 8 well you see the trend. And the light increases 1 stop if you do the reverse.




  
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Aug 08, 2008 07:08 |  #21

Phil Light wrote in post #6067407 (external link)
You'd think you would just pop that back plate off and cram it in there wouldn't you? :lol::lol:

(Wise-a$$) :p

You're right. I forgot about the backplate and the 128 pin computer link connector hidden behind it. I would image you can download every piece of photographic knowledge in about 32 seconds.

But the first accident, well, its all wiped out ;)


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Phil ­ Light
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Aug 08, 2008 07:18 |  #22

sfaust wrote in post #6069621 (external link)
You're right. I forgot about the backplate and the 128 pin computer link connector hidden behind it. I would image you can download every piece of photographic knowledge in about 32 seconds.

But the first accident, well, its all wiped out ;)

I'm sorry, what were we talking about? (I have a headache)


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AB8ND
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Aug 08, 2008 08:33 as a reply to  @ post 6067407 |  #23

Where is link to anAlien Bee article titled How Much Power
http://www.paulcbuff.c​om/forums/viewtopic.ph​p?t=52 (external link)
One quote that is interesting is

"Our experience is that far more users end up wishing they had bought lower power lights (i.e. the AlienBees B400) rather than higher power."

For basketball you can, and this is done, mount 2 580EX's or Nikon SB800 high in the bleachers aiming them to cross at the key , at 1/2 power these should give plenty of light to balance with the ambient of the gym (normal gyms anyway). Now if you have endless dollars (read that a Sports Illustrated assignment) you can mount strobes to the rafters and light the whole gym. I remember reading that some pro arenas have strobes permanently mounted and photographers (from recognized media)are issued PW's. I sure these are all strobes with the most power available.

Jack




  
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Phil ­ Light
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Aug 08, 2008 08:46 |  #24

AB8ND wrote in post #6069956 (external link)
... I remember reading that some pro arenas have strobes permanently mounted and photographers (from recognized media)are issued PW's. I sure these are all strobes with the most power available.

Jack

I was told there is a pro here in town who has his own lights permanently mounted in several different sporting arenas in this city. It was estimated that he has about $40,000 invested just in lights.

The day I can afford to buy $40,000 worth of lights to permanently mount in someone else's facility, that's when I'll know I'm successful.


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Aug 08, 2008 08:57 |  #25

AB8ND wrote in post #6069956 (external link)
Where is link to anAlien Bee article titled How Much Power
http://www.paulcbuff.c​om/forums/viewtopic.ph​p?t=52 (external link)
One quote that is interesting is

"Our experience is that far more users end up wishing they had bought lower power lights (i.e. the AlienBees B400) rather than higher power."

Precisely what I have been trying to tell people for a long, long time (and I never read that advice on PCB web site)


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Phil ­ Light
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Aug 08, 2008 09:01 |  #26

AB8ND wrote in post #6069956 (external link)
..."Our experience is that far more users end up wishing they had bought lower power lights (i.e. the AlienBees B400) rather than higher power."...

Wilt wrote in post #6070065 (external link)
Precisely what I have been trying to tell people for a long, long time (and I never read that advice on PCB web site)

This makes perfect sense. No argument from me. I assume though that most studio lighting newbs like me assume that the power can always be dialed down. We just want to make sure we have the most power and versatility when it might be needed. But it sounds like there is no "one light fits all" answer.


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TMR ­ Design
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Aug 08, 2008 09:03 |  #27

Wilt wrote in post #6070065 (external link)
Precisely what I have been trying to tell people for a long, long time (and I never read that advice on PCB web site)

Indubitably :D


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Aug 08, 2008 09:06 |  #28

Wilt wrote in post #6070065 (external link)
Precisely what I have been trying to tell people for a long, long time (and I never read that advice on PCB web site)

I've tried to do the same and it really is futile. New photographers seem to be stuck in the 'more is better' mindset and completely unwilling to accept that buying higher-powered lights will often rob you of useful, lower power settings and gain you only impractical, higher ones.




  
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Aug 08, 2008 09:10 |  #29

Hermes wrote in post #6070113 (external link)
I've tried to do the same and it really is futile. New photographers seem to be stuck in the 'more is better' mindset and completely unwilling to accept that buying higher-powered lights will often rob you of useful, lower power settings and gain you only impractical, higher ones.

I agree. It's a fight but I think we (you, me, Wilt) have made some progress in that department and seen many switch to lower power strobes. If it's explained in a real world practical way instead of just throwing numbers around then I think it makes more sense and potential buyers come to understand the concept of too much power being a bad or impractical thing, not to mention more costly.


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RichNY
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Aug 09, 2008 01:01 |  #30

The amount of power you will need for strobing a gym is going to be greatly dependent on how far away you mount the strobes.

One big thing to consider is the flash duration when shooting sports. This is probably the most commonly used setup for shooting sports photography in gyms: http://www.dynalite.co​m/sportspkg.shtml (external link)


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How much strobe power do I need?
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