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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 08 Aug 2008 (Friday) 07:51
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PacAce
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Aug 09, 2008 10:10 |  #16

aram535 wrote in post #6076104 (external link)
I think we ended up confusing the OP...

The final/short/cheap solution is to use the 580EX with a cord as a master and set off your 480EX remotely.
This will give you both manual and auto modes, as well as giving you ETTL.

Anything beyound that you will have to give up something for the distance/non-local flash use.

A typical example of a wedding shot. On a beach, you have the couple go out to a set of rock 30-40 feet away, but they're in shadow and you need a light source, you can't use a reflector (wide shot) you can't use a local flash, you need to be able to hide a flash near them and set it off. This requires one of the solutions from above (non-line-of-site solution).

I hope that clears up some of the confusion.

If you want something cheaper, the ST-E2 plus the 430EX would be cheaper than the 580EX II plus the OC-E3 cord and probably a little more versatile as far as off-camera flash placement is concerned. But, having said that, I would still opt for the 580EX II in lieu of the ST-E2 and the 430EX but that's just me and what I'd use the flashes for. :)


...Leo

  
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aram535
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Aug 09, 2008 19:13 |  #17

PacAce wrote in post #6076128 (external link)
If you want something cheaper, the ST-E2 plus the 430EX would be cheaper than the 580EX II plus the OC-E3 cord and probably a little more versatile as far as off-camera flash placement is concerned. But, having said that, I would still opt for the 580EX II in lieu of the ST-E2 and the 430EX but that's just me and what I'd use the flashes for. :)

Always thought that would limit your max flash speed?


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PacAce
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Aug 09, 2008 19:17 |  #18

aram535 wrote in post #6078089 (external link)
Always thought that would limit your max flash speed?

What would?


...Leo

  
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aram535
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Aug 10, 2008 08:33 |  #19

Any sort of "transmitter" that would set off the 580 which in turn would set off the other flashes.


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PacAce
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Aug 10, 2008 09:04 |  #20

aram535 wrote in post #6080389 (external link)
Any sort of "transmitter" that would set off the 580 which in turn would set off the other flashes.

Yes, that's true except when the off-shoe cord 2 or 3 is used in which case full ETTL compatibility is retained.


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AmpedPhoto
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Aug 10, 2008 11:33 |  #21

ok I am not sure how the Canon transmitter works within the 580 (to lazy to try it maybe later today) but when I set my SB-800 with my old D300 the light would only really work line of sigh and only inside. So I say the best bet now is to buy a set of radio poppers and not be limmited by line of sight and or worring about working outside


Canon 5D Mark II (x2), 30D, 40D, G10, 70-200 F4 IS (x2), 16-35 f2.8 L, 50mm 1.4, 430 EX II (x2), 580 EX II Tamron 28-75 F2.8 (x2), Tonkia 12-24 F4, 10-18 Fisheye, Full studio with some light :)
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apersson850
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Aug 11, 2008 09:03 as a reply to  @ AmpedPhoto's post |  #22

The wireless control from a 580 EX II works by sending flash pulses with data just prior to the real exposure flash, if that's also used.


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TheHoff
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Aug 11, 2008 09:12 |  #23

AmpedPhoto wrote in post #6080927 (external link)
ok I am not sure how the Canon transmitter works within the 580 (to lazy to try it maybe later today) but when I set my SB-800 with my old D300 the light would only really work line of sigh and only inside. So I say the best bet now is to buy a set of radio poppers and not be limmited by line of sight and or worring about working outside

It is line of sight but I have pretty good luck outdoors within a range of 20 feet or so. Make sure to rotate the flash base to face the camera of course. I'm waiting for Radiopoppers v2 as I can't believe they have all the bugs worked out yet.


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mrklaw
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Sep 01, 2008 08:04 as a reply to  @ TheHoff's post |  #24

quick question if I may..

I have a 580EXII and a 430EX. reading all this strobist stuff, and checking the 'show us your studio' threads, they often (nearly always) show the main/fill at 90 degrees to each other (45 degrees either side of the subject). but another very helpful thread I read had the fill light on the camera (perhaps up high, but still on axis), and just the main off camera.

Can someone explain why the difference? Ideally keeping the 580EX on camera would be good for me, as then I can use it as fill and as a master, with the 430EX as main. Later on buying perhaps another cheap 430EX for hair/background.


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PacAce
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Sep 01, 2008 08:20 |  #25

mrklaw wrote in post #6218760 (external link)
quick question if I may..

I have a 580EXII and a 430EX. reading all this strobist stuff, and checking the 'show us your studio' threads, they often (nearly always) show the main/fill at 90 degrees to each other (45 degrees either side of the subject). but another very helpful thread I read had the fill light on the camera (perhaps up high, but still on axis), and just the main off camera.

Can someone explain why the difference? Ideally keeping the 580EX on camera would be good for me, as then I can use it as fill and as a master, with the 430EX as main. Later on buying perhaps another cheap 430EX for hair/background.

If all you want to do with the fill light is to fill the shadow areas, then having the fill flash on the camera hot shoe or just above it would be ideal since the flash will only be filling the areas that the camera can see without really casting its own shadow.

If the fill light is off to the side, unless you are trying to be creative with the lighting, you may actually present yourself with a problem because the fill light itself is going to cast a shadow in the picture so you could end up with two sets of shadows. If that's what you want, then that's fine. If not, then that's one more thing you'll need to deal with.


...Leo

  
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mrklaw
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Sep 01, 2008 08:59 as a reply to  @ PacAce's post |  #26

want to keep it simple for now. So 580 on camera (hotshoe for now, bracket and off shoe cable later.) - 430EX as main.

will try with simple diffusers (stofen) for now, look at brollies/softboxes later on (very limited for space). What would you choose for a beginner first? Shoot through brolly, reflector brolly or softbox? bearing in mind I have very limited space


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PacAce
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Sep 01, 2008 09:07 |  #27

mrklaw wrote in post #6219009 (external link)
want to keep it simple for now. So 580 on camera (hotshoe for now, bracket and off shoe cable later.) - 430EX as main.

will try with simple diffusers (stofen) for now, look at brollies/softboxes later on (very limited for space). What would you choose for a beginner first? Shoot through brolly, reflector brolly or softbox? bearing in mind I have very limited space

If space is limited, reflector bolly, like the Photek Softlighter (http://www.owens-originals.com …Photek%20Softli​ghter.html (external link)) might be a good choice. The Softlighter is very shallow, front to back, compared to a shoot-through brolly box or a softbox and It'll provide a more even lighting than a shoot-through brolly.


...Leo

  
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TheHoff
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Sep 01, 2008 10:36 |  #28

The Softlighters convert to a shoot-through if you want that, as well; I used it like that yesterday. It is the most flexible I've seen.


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mrklaw
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Sep 01, 2008 10:41 as a reply to  @ TheHoff's post |  #29

just been reading about them in here - sound good. can you get them in the UK? is the lastolite umbrella box effecitively the same thing?


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PacAce
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Sep 01, 2008 11:03 |  #30

TheHoff wrote in post #6219391 (external link)
The Softlighters convert to a shoot-through if you want that, as well; I used it like that yesterday. It is the most flexible I've seen.

Good point. I forgot about that feature. :)


...Leo

  
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