Not sure what I did wrong...

Ignore my comment about color temperatures. That part looks really good.

Well, as long as we're going in that direction....

Also, don't split the eye in half with the rim of the glasses and don't assume a camera position that has a subject looking up above the frames.

TMR Design wrote in post #6078898
Well, as long as we're going in that direction....

Also, don't split the eye in half with the rim of the glasses and don't assume a camera position that has a subject looking up above the frames.

Judging by his diagram of light placement I'd say he (the photog) asked the subject to lower his glasses and tilt his head to get rid of the glare in his glasses.

Now I know this isnt the way to eliminate glare, but this would account for both of the above problems (in bold) you have mentioned.

Just in case the OP is wondering how to prevent the glare...............

You could think of it like a game of pool, place the subject or light so the angle at which the light reflects off of the glasses does not return it to the camera lens. So if you dont want to see the light in the glasses at all, the light has to bounced off the glasses at a wider angle ( I hope this makes sense to somebody but me).

The EXIF says f1.8, 1/20. I would raise the ISO to get better aperture and shutter speed for sharper images.

Lotto wrote in post #6079852
The EXIF says f1.8, 1/20. I would raise the ISO to get better aperture and shutter speed for sharper images.

Absolutely. Going to ISO 400 with a smaller aperture and maybe a shorter shutter speed even if using a tripod would produce a sharper looking image. I would shoot for f/4, but this gets to be a matter of taste. If it was me and I had no tripod, I would go for a shutter speed of 1/60 and try for an aperture of at least f/2.8, although I would still try for f/4 even though it may require boosting the ISO a little more or getting the lights closer to the subjects. The advantages of a low ISO are quickly overcome by camera shake and soft focus in my opinion.

Let me add that the reason I suggested a faster shutter speed even with a tripod has to do with two issues. One is subject motion, which probably isn't too severe a problem at 1/20 in this situation, but the other is shutter/mirror harmonics. I have read in several places that somewhere around 1/8 to 1/15 second, the harmonics of the shutter and mirror have the highest potential of vibrating the camera just a tiny bit and providing just the slightest bit of softness. My own experience is that this is true. A shutter speed of 1/20 is close enough to 1/15 that I would prefer to avoid it. This could be an old fuddy-duddy thing left over from the days of film and primitive cameras, but it is one of those things that is hard for me to shake (no pun intended).

As stated, lighting is too flat. A classic conventional lighting would get rid of the two 75w sources, leaving just the 300w Fill and the 1000w Main light.

Franko515 wrote in post #6079741
Just in case the OP is wondering how to prevent the glare...............

You could think of it like a game of pool, place the subject or light so the angle at which the light reflects off of the glasses does not return it to the camera lens. So if you dont want to see the light in the glasses at all, the light has to bounced off the glasses at a wider angle ( I hope this makes sense to somebody but me).

Yes, it does make sense. thanks for the tip!

Franko515 wrote in post #6078882
Also try not to crop at joints (i.e. knees, elbows, wrist etc.)

mikeassk wrote in post #6078763
nothing to do with light but; try not to cut off hands, it makes the subject look incomplete.

That make perfect sense! thanks!

I know that you're working with a studio setup, but you might be able to accelerate your learning of light by checking out this great website ... http://strobist.blogsp​ot.com/

There are some good exercises here that you could do to help analyze your own lighting in your photos ... http://strobist.blogsp​ot.com …ing-102-introduction.html.

Most of all, experiment and have fun.

Honestly, nothing against work lights, but this work may be easier with the appropriate lighting equipment (i.e. photographic flashes/strobes), umbrellas/reflectors/s​oftboxes, etc.

And definitely and light placement are important (as well as lots of practice and experimentation).