Alien Bees...

I have a AB800 using my shoe flash on low power to trigger it. I am looking at getting another light. Can I get a AB400 to use as a fill or should I get a AB800? I figured it would be ok since the fill is much less powerful than the main. I also thought I could use it as a hair light later!!

Thanks,

Isn't the 800 about $50.00 more than the 400? At that price go for the 800...but more importantly I'd go for the 800 as there are many different ways to add fill...bounce off a card or white sheet, through a softbox, or bounce off a wall sucks up light. Same if you are add a hair light. Using a grid with a hair-light sucks up the light big time.

For the few extra $$$ I would get the AB800. It would be way more versitile than the AB400.

The fill is supposed to be less powerful, but it's also supposed to be much softer, which means wasting light with a large modifier. I find I actually use a higher setting with my fill than I do with my main light because I like to bounce my fill from a flat foamcore board for the softed light I can get--and it wastes a great deal, too, more than one or two stops less that I want the fill illumination to be.

id get another 800 and buy some grids for it... its better to have a lil more power then not enough

One of the advantages of getting a AB800 is the modeling lights will match. If you get an AB400 you either need to get a half power modeling light for it or have to pay more attention to the ratio differences.

On the other hand, if you are using your 800 at low settings right now, it might be better to get the Ab400 so you have more flexability. I say this as I have two 1600 and two 800 and found that I needed to make the AB800's my main and fill in order to get more flexability because of the smaller size of my studio. I use one AB1600 as a hair light (bouncing off ceiling) and the other remains an occasional spot light or back light. If not for the fact that I plan on someday getting a real studio to work in I would regret not getting all AB800's.

Just my experience,

Thanks all!! I think I am going with an AB800!! As usual the wealth of knowledge here has helped!!

yes you can perfectly do that.- Although the diferent in price
pay itself if in a future you need another powerfull strobe like 800bees; in a high key set up.
Att Sergio.

Bloo Dog, I recently picked up a set of 1600's, with them, believe it or not, I bought a hand held light meter. A Sekonic that will trigger my pocket wizards. I am trying to self teach my-self how to use the lights. These metering comments have me perplexed. Now I have something else to ponder when I am making exposures. I will keep this in mind and post again later after I have more flash time logged....

i havn't had any metering issues w/ the three b800's i have in my studio... although i don't use a hand held meter either... i use a digital calibration target, kinda like a grey card on steroids

I have 2 AB 800s and I meter with the Sekonic L358. It seems to be about 1/3 stop under fairly consistently so I set my exposure about 1/3 up and have at it.

bloo - i simply don't determine lighting ratio's... im totally self taught, so i compose and use the lcd to guide me w/ composition and make adjustments and use my histogram as a way to see if i am exposing properly.

i know there is a better, more structured way to do this, but i also think some people (not pointing fingers at anyone) take studio lighting and photography way to seriously as far as all the tech that goes behind it. i shoot, therefor i am.. lol - seriously though, ive made it pretty far and understand all the concepts behind it, but im also not going to spend hours setting up a shot w/ a model for the perfect exposure, ill shoot a bunch and bracket, adjust light output on the strobes as needed if i can't get a proper adjustment thru apreture control on the camera (shooting in manual, shutter set to 1/125)

The histogram can fail with complex studio shots. Work with some low key portraits to see.

and i understand that concept... and i agree that actually measuring out distance and using a light meter would be the proper thing to do to calculate light output, however at the current state of photography that i am in, i'm not dropping $400+ for a quality light meter. I know what causes the problems with my photos in the studio, therefor i can look for ways to correct them beyond bracketing, such as powering up/down or moving the lights in or out or side to side...

not you in particular, but on a whole it seems that people try to make things more difficult then they are, photography included.

if i was really anal about driving i would be using the full apex of every single turn and on/off ramp i drive on and use my left foot to clutch and brake while using my right for acceleration only

OK -- complete newBEE here on studio lighting. I was thinking of getting the kit of two 400s wth umbrellas, etc. that the Bees offer. I use a Canon 10d now, soon a 5d. any issues with either of these cameras with regard to synching etc? Do I just use the shoe attachment on one and let the slave do the rest, or is there something Canon specific that I'm missing here?