Hockey

Got a spot on one of the team's bench.
First hockey game.

1.

couple of thoughts :

- your s/s is too slow; you need to be up around at least 1/400 to get the action stopped
- they're a bit underexposed, hockey's hard - lots of white on the ice and boards; you might be able to help it some in PP. Adjust the curves and lighten the shadows. The jersey in the last one is a lump of black, you may be able to add some definition to it.
- you may want a faster lens - something with a max aperture of f2.8; helps get your s/s up
- shoot tight, crop tighter

cheers

Darsk47 wrote in post #6095992
couple of thoughts :

- your s/s is too slow; you need to be up around at least 1/400 to get the action stopped
- they're a bit underexposed, hockey's hard - lots of white on the ice and boards; you might be able to help it some in PP. Adjust the curves and lighten the shadows. The jersey in the last one is a lump of black, you may be able to add some definition to it.
- you may want a faster lens - something with a max aperture of f2.8; helps get your s/s up
- shoot tight, crop tighter

cheers

Thank you. Great ideas!

regarding the jersey, though...I see definition. I wonder if anybody else does??
I did bump up the blacks a bit.

you need a 70-200 f2.8 my friend... hockey is waayyyyy hard to stop any action without it

I have to echo Darsks comments. You managed to freeze some good action
moments but they dont work if the images are not sharp. 70-200 2.8 is a
great lens for shooting hockey. Its a bit expensive lens but you will be satisfied
for the speed and IQ it provides.
I cant see any definition on jerseys black. Maybe you need to recalibrate your
monitor.
Just keep practising

sigma 70-200 might be a good alternative if your in a budget than the canon
the shots you got were not bad by any means, you caught the right action... just needs to be caught a little bit quicker on the cameras end


also try to expose +1 and shoot in raw
youll capture more detail shooting +1 exposure and have more flexibility with the WB when shooting raw (good when lighting in a rink is all off in certain parts :mad

better to shoot higher ISO and expose 1 over than underexpose and end up with noisy detailess images

Great tips. Thanks everyone.

A few silly questions (pardon my ignorance).

1. flash. should I/ could I use a flash?
2. how does the sigma compare to the canon? can I be certain that it'd freeze the action?
3. Is it worth attempting to shoot with the 50mm 1.4? I did make a few tries for a couple of minutes, but didnt like the fact that I couldn't get in close.

This one was shot with the 50 mm 1.4 (all the rest were shot with the 70-300). A little static, but I like the way you can see the cut lines in the ice.

Toblerone wrote in post #6098594
Great tips. Thanks everyone.

A few silly questions (pardon my ignorance).

1. flash. should I/ could I use a flash?
2. how does the sigma compare to the canon? can I be certain that it'd freeze the action?
3. Is it worth attempting to shoot with the 50mm 1.4? I did make a few tries for a couple of minutes, but didnt like the fact that I couldn't get in close.

1. i dont like flashes in sports photography, but thats just me, gives a weird light dropoff.

2. excuse me for posting pictures in your thread but the sigma is a great lens.

example

BassBiggieD wrote in post #6101928
1. i dont like flashes in sports photography, but thats just me, gives a weird light dropoff.

2. excuse me for posting pictures in your thread but the sigma is a great lens.

example

yes it def does help stop the action

my copy of the sigma is very sharp and has no focusing issues, might be upgrading to the canon version soon tho as the focusing is just a tad better

3. the 50 isn't long enough imo, you'll be cropping quite a bit and with higher ISO thats not to good

Thanks again, I am looking into the Sigma right now.

Great freeze-actions!
+ I don't mind pics in my thread at all