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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 18 Aug 2008 (Monday) 05:14
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Flash Lightsphere

 
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Aug 28, 2008 12:13 as a reply to  @ post 6196824 |  #31

I have the pocket bouncer and I see very little if any difference in using that and straight on flash..maybe a subtle change in shadow denseness but that is all..not worth the money, I gave my pocket bouncer away. I use the flipit..in cases where that won't work I use straight on flash on a camera flip bracket..




  
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strobe ­ monkey
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Aug 28, 2008 12:23 |  #32

I got the ebay lightsphere lookalike and it works. A lot better than stofen or bounced flash.


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Aug 28, 2008 12:28 |  #33

strobe monkey wrote in post #6197369 (external link)
I got the ebay lightsphere lookalike and it works. A lot better than stofen or bounced flash.

The Lightsphere is all about bounced flash....it just takes the photographer out of the equation.


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strobe ­ monkey
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Aug 28, 2008 13:06 |  #34

Titus213 wrote in post #6197387 (external link)
The Lightsphere is all about bounced flash....it just takes the photographer out of the equation.

What I meant with bounced flash is naked flash pointed to the ceiling. I should have expressed my thoughs clearer.

But I don't totally agree with you saying the LS is all about bounced flash. I remember watching a video of Gary Fong showing and saying you can point the tupperware directly on to your subject.


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fiveFPS
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Aug 28, 2008 21:11 |  #35

strobe monkey wrote in post #6197625 (external link)
What I meant with bounced flash is naked flash pointed to the ceiling. I should have expressed my thoughs clearer.

But I don't totally agree with you saying the LS is all about bounced flash. I remember watching a video of Gary Fong showing and saying you can point the tupperware directly on to your subject.


that's true.. i think it's on youtube


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Pearlallica
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Aug 28, 2008 21:55 |  #36

viet wrote in post #6196824 (external link)
The lightsphere is rather heavy sitting on top of your flash. I don't mean heavy for you, but for the flash's head. If you are not careful, you might break off your flash with that thing sitting on top.

On the other hand, it's perfect to use as a candies holder...I was thinking of cake, but it was too messy and the kids love it.

My recommendation is just learn to bounce, outdoor just straight on.

heavy on the flash? really? perhaps somewhat. I don't get the impression it's placing any kind of unwanted pressure, or weight on flash.. in any position for that matter. Maybe it depends on which flash it's being subjected to. My friend's sony flash seemed to tipsy with the LS's weight. My canon flash doens't seem to mind it one bit.

I still link straight on (indoors or out) still casts shadows that are too sharp. (not to mention a powerful, almost linear light source) The minimum of a diffuser (stofen?) should be applied to reduce this kind of problem.

Maybe one day when I'm finally fed up with hauling around the lightsphere will try the candy tray idea for the kiddies. lol


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Titus213
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Aug 28, 2008 22:12 |  #37

strobe monkey wrote in post #6197625 (external link)
What I meant with bounced flash is naked flash pointed to the ceiling. I should have expressed my thoughs clearer.

But I don't totally agree with you saying the LS is all about bounced flash. I remember watching a video of Gary Fong showing and saying you can point the tupperware directly on to your subject.

So you can bypass the function of the LS? What's different about pointing the LS at your subject with no lid and pointing the flash at your subject with no LS? If the LS isn't all about bouncing light why is it needed?

fiveFPS wrote in post #6200303 (external link)
that's true.. i think it's on youtube

Yes sir, that must make it true.:D


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viet
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Aug 29, 2008 00:15 |  #38

strobe monkey wrote in post #6197625 (external link)
What I meant with bounced flash is naked flash pointed to the ceiling. I should have expressed my thoughs clearer.

But I don't totally agree with you saying the LS is all about bounced flash. I remember watching a video of Gary Fong showing and saying you can point the tupperware directly on to your subject.

Really? damn, I must have been bouncing it all wrong then...time to get my crappy "authentic" LS out and stick on my flash like a sore thumb then...or spend more money on the hyped "toilet bowl" aka whale's crap.

In all seriousness, the LS is just a gimmick that people bought into Fong's brilliant marketing skill / scheme. Learn your craft right and you don't need any of these add-ons.




  
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strobe ­ monkey
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Aug 29, 2008 02:14 |  #39

Titus213 wrote in post #6200678 (external link)
So you can bypass the function of the LS? What's different about pointing the LS at your subject with no lid and pointing the flash at your subject with no LS? If the LS isn't all about bouncing light why is it needed?

Watch this (external link)


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strobe ­ monkey
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Aug 29, 2008 02:27 |  #40

viet wrote in post #6201313 (external link)
Really? damn, I must have been bouncing it all wrong then...time to get my crappy "authentic" LS out and stick on my flash like a sore thumb then...or spend more money on the hyped "toilet bowl" aka whale's crap.

In all seriousness, the LS is just a gimmick that people bought into Fong's brilliant marketing skill / scheme. Learn your craft right and you don't need any of these add-ons.

I've used and tested my fakesphere indoors with cap on and pointing up. It works really great.

I've also tried ABBC, I also like results I get but my fakesphere is better. I get better results with them than stofen.


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Aug 29, 2008 06:19 |  #41

Interesting video - thanks for sharing. Yes, the way he shot it the LS image is more pleasing than straight on flash, which has the background going darking and the facial skin "brighter."

I could have achieved a very similar effect with an ambient light meter reading and just the right amount of fill flash from my 580ex with perhaps a little adjustment of FEC-. It's all about understanding proper exposure - ambient/fill combination with proper metering.

strobe monkey wrote in post #6201795 (external link)
Watch this (external link)


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Pearlallica
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Aug 29, 2008 07:33 |  #42

sapearl wrote in post #6202299 (external link)
I could have achieved a very similar effect with an ambient light meter reading and just the right amount of fill flash from my 580ex with perhaps a little adjustment of FEC-. It's all about understanding proper exposure - ambient/fill combination with proper metering.

Amen.

I think there's a time and a place for everything. One needs proper education to correctly set-up a flash assisted shot. When I pull out the lightsphere for use it's because my kids are running around and there isn't time to meter, adjust, aim, then shoot. Think of a dance at a wedding reception. The action is ever evolving. There are just too many calculations at play and too many opportunities that might be lost in the process. The LS is a point and shoot tool. 'nough said.


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cdifoto
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Aug 29, 2008 07:36 |  #43

Pearlallica wrote in post #6202559 (external link)
Think of a dance at a wedding reception. The action is ever evolving. There are just too many calculations at play and too many opportunities that might be lost in the process. The LS is a point and shoot tool. 'nough said.

Every wedding reception I've photographed has been too large for the 'Sphere. I've always been better off without it. The only real calculation is deciding where to bounce from. The point-and-shoot-ability of E-TTL exposure doesn't change based on the modifier added.


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sapearl
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Aug 29, 2008 09:05 |  #44

I generally agree with what you are saying, but actually at wedding receptions it would not even occur to me to use the LS, or any other modifier that would reduce my flashes output significantly.

As good as the LS may be at close range, it will hurt my shot more than help it, on a dim dance floor or dark dining area. For anything beyound about 8-10 the output fall off is just to great with such a modifier.

Most of my dance work is done by bouncing the 580ex with the little card extended, or sometimes using the Lumiquest 80/20. Here is an example of a recent wedding with just the 580's own "index card. Keep in mind this is a PROOF, and other than RAW adjustments done in ACR, no PS PP has been done to it:"

http://www.pbase.com/s​apearl/image/102290666 (external link)

And again, here is another example of a candid shot, with no light modifier, of the bride "running around her house" during the pre-game festivities. Camera was set on manual with AUTO-ETTL for the flash:

http://www.pbase.com/s​apearl/image/102290030 (external link)

Her face is a little underexposed - something I will easily adjust in PS for her album print - but I adjusted the flashes output for her dress since I did not want to lose any of it's highlight detail. - Stu

Pearlallica wrote in post #6202559 (external link)
Amen.

I think there's a time and a place for everything. One needs proper education to correctly set-up a flash assisted shot. When I pull out the lightsphere for use it's because my kids are running around and there isn't time to meter, adjust, aim, then shoot. Think of a dance at a wedding reception. The action is ever evolving. There are just too many calculations at play and too many opportunities that might be lost in the process. The LS is a point and shoot tool. 'nough said.


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Aug 29, 2008 09:09 |  #45

Absolutely with you on this Dan - completely agree.

This is also why I don't understand people using Stofens in gymnasium sized halls, with walls and ceilings that are 25 feet away. Your judgement regarding the most effective "near" bounce surface will do more to improve your shot than any add-on product.

In other words, where can you make the like come from, other than directly off your flash.

cdifoto wrote in post #6202573 (external link)
Every wedding reception I've photographed has been too large for the 'Sphere. I've always been better off without it. The only real calculation is deciding where to bounce from. The point-and-shoot-ability of E-TTL exposure doesn't change based on the modifier added.


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