Next Three Things...

BaseballPhotographer wrote in post #6134011
Does the IS really make that big of a difference with sports photograpy?

No. IS is so that you can hand hold the camera at SLOWER shutter speeds. You need fast shutter speeds to freeze motion when shooting sports. I shoot football at 1/400sec

However, if you can afford the IS version, you should get it so that if you expand to do other types of photography you will have it. I don't know the weight difference between the IS and Non IS versions

My 2 cents on the carbon fiber mono-pod.....

If you hope to purchase larger glass down the road, i.e. a 300/2.8 and/or a 400/2.8 you will find that the carbon fiber monopod is MUCH lighter than a regular model, and when you are lugging a 400 around a football field, or a golf course, the weight adds up.

Secondly, I normally would agree with not needing a monopod for a 70-200, but for night football I would think it would be useful if for nothing else as a place to mount the flash off camera, so as to get rid of the red eye you see from direct flash.

SportsOnFilm wrote in post #6134402
My 2 cents on the carbon fiber mono-pod.....

Secondly, I normally would agree with not needing a monopod for a 70-200, but for night football I would think it would be useful if for nothing else as a place to mount the flash off camera, so as to get rid of the red eye you see from direct flash.

How do you use a monopod to mount a flash off camera and make it work/stand for you?

CatchingUp wrote in post #6135715
How do you use a monopod to mount a flash off camera and make it work/stand for you?

http://www.davehoffman​nphoto.com …ight-football-with-flash/

Zivnuska wrote in post #6136655
http://www.davehoffman​nphoto.com …ight-football-with-flash/

Wow. That's interesting...never would have thought of that.

I use the same set up...the flash that is...and it works well.

However....you need to check with the school first. A lot of HS's do not allow you to use flash while shooting football so check first before you invest.

As far as IS vrs non IS....I use the non-IS on a mono pod and it works well. I am one of the few that does not believe IS is needed for sports shooting.

Jon

BaseballPhotographer wrote in post #6134011
Does the IS really make that big of a difference with sports photograpy?

If you are only going to be shooting things where you need a high shutter speed to freeze action, then the IS will NOT help. It will help in low light, low shutter speed situations, but these are typically NOT sporting events. I have the 70-200f2.8L IS and when shooting sports I keep the IS off as it is not needed and only uses more battery life. If you will need your lens for other things where low light may be a factor, then get IS, but if only using for sports, save yourself a few bucks.

As to the monopod, yes you can shoot the 70-200 without one, but over the course of a 2-3 hour football game, you will be VERY HAPPY that you put your rig on one as the 70-200 plus the camera, plus a possible battery pack, plus a possible flash will get very heavy after awhile and you will be happy to have your monopod to support that weight. Plus if you get the right releases on it, you can adjust height very quickly if you want to get lower or higher. I use a Manfrotto 679B for my 40D/70-200 and it was ~$70 and is just fine.

As to battery pack, go for it. It adds a nice feel to the camera, makes you and your camera look more professional and has the advantage of a second shutter and * button for focus when shooting vertical. Also, if you are shooting multiple games, it will seem like forever before you need to recharge the two batteries.

Cheers!

Chris

SportsOnFilm wrote in post #6134402
My 2 cents on the carbon fiber mono-pod.....

If you hope to purchase larger glass down the road, i.e. a 300/2.8 and/or a 400/2.8 you will find that the carbon fiber monopod is MUCH lighter than a regular model, and when you are lugging a 400 around a football field, or a golf course, the weight adds up.

Secondly, I normally would agree with not needing a monopod for a 70-200, but for night football I would think it would be useful if for nothing else as a place to mount the flash off camera, so as to get rid of the red eye you see from direct flash.

Entry level bogen like 679B is only 1.3lb and costs less than $50. I use it with my 500mm f4 IS and 1dmk2, no problems at all. Carbon Fiber Gitzo models won't save any weight but would cost couple of hundred dollars more.

I do agree with having a monopod for even something like 70-200mm f2.8. You can mount the flash, battery pack etc and it will take the load off.

Wow, never got this much advice before. Thank you all so much. I think I am going to get the 70-200mm 2.8 NON IS, a cheap monopod, and the BG-E3.

I'd get a 1.4x TC if I were you. Skip the grip and buy another battery if you need to save some $$. Have enough cards to take 200 shots per game.

From my experience shooting rugby, do not get a flash for it. Flash will make the shots look flat. Also, would you like to be running down the sideline with the ball and have a flash blasted into your face?

Sometimes you just have to live with noise. I agree with the comment above that placing flashes around the field is just asking for someone to run into them. Outdoor sport and flash really doesn't mix.

I also agree with the comment about a monopod. There is no need to get a carbon fibre one. I would only get a cf one if I was hiking with it for a while or had to move around A LOT. Just get a manfrotto metal one.

My preference for items would be, considering you don't want to get a new body:

1) 70-200 2.8 non-IS. IS is useless for sport.
2) manfrotto monopod (metal one, i think 681B?)
3) cf cards!!
4) practice!

Personally I would spend the money on a good used 30D and then try to get the 70-200 2.8. A 40D would be good but may be out of reach.

You could go without the monopod if you want, because you should be shooting at higher than 1/320.

Hope this helps.

Nelson

Hai,
I hope these are helps
1) 70-200 2.8 non-IS. IS is useless for sport.
2) manfrotto monopod (metal one, i think 681B?)
3) cf cards!!
4) practice!

Personally I would spend the money on a good used 30D and then try to get the 70-200 2.8. A 40D would be good but may be out of reach.

You could go without the monopod if you want, because you should be shooting at higher than 1/320.

===============
jack008

www.worldinfo.com

The lighting on most of the football fields I have shot on require ISO 3200, f/2.8 and if you are lucky, the shutter speed might be as high as 1/500th sec.

If you decide to use flash, an option might be to add a 1.4x TC on the 70-200 and set your ISO at 800 or 1000. I also use a Bogen 679B monopod. It has worked great for me.

Here are a couple of examples. Note: Exif indicates the ISO was set at 1600 on both pics. 1/250, f/4 flash used.
Hope this helps.
Mike

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jack008 wrote in post #6142331
Hai,
I hope these are helps
1) 70-200 2.8 non-IS. IS is useless for sport.
2) manfrotto monopod (metal one, i think 681B?)
3) cf cards!!
4) practice!

Personally I would spend the money on a good used 30D and then try to get the 70-200 2.8. A 40D would be good but may be out of reach.

You could go without the monopod if you want, because you should be shooting at higher than 1/320.

===============
jack008

www.worldinfo.com

Jack why did u just copy paste mine?

if your gonna get a IS lens you can't have the IS on when its mounted to a mono or tripod. It will throw off the image stab. I like the 70-200mmIS 2.8. it's great for sports. If you get it you should also get a 1.4 TC converter it will give you a little more reach