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Thread started 19 Aug 2008 (Tuesday) 06:34
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my niece

 
angello
Hatchling
4 posts
Joined Aug 2008
     
Aug 19, 2008 06:34 |  #1

Hello all members on forum!

First: my english sucks!
This is my first post on this CDP forum. As I know that you are a canon users out there, I would to know your personal opinion about this photo which was recently taken on my summer trip in my country.

I'm new owner of canon 40d with tamron 17-50mm f2.8! Problem - please tell me how to make better photo in this case: is it me or soft tamron lens ( probably the first:rolleyes:)

I would like to know what's wrong with this photo: :oops:

f was 2.8( focus was in the t shirt !),
Evaluative metering,
iso: was set to: 200.
Shutter Speed:1/640Sec.
Focal Length:35,0 mm

Picture original taken in raw format and was reduce to 144kb JPG large file!

Yeah, I know focus was not in the middle(on the face) but still picture still seems soft to me... sharpening was done in Lightroom by settings 134, radius 1.3, detail 23, masking 21. I retuched WB that color are more accurate but tone curve was set to mediun contrast!

To better quality(this one) click on my online photos (no, I'm not nikon dealer! :P) :
http://webf.mypicturet​own.com …bo97HvxQAiW-%2526%253D2VA (external link)

Please help!
Thanks for your replies!

Angello


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angello
THREAD ­ STARTER
Hatchling
4 posts
Joined Aug 2008
     
Aug 19, 2008 13:30 |  #2

common guys... no one??




  
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Robert_Lay
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7,546 posts
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Location: Spotsylvania Co., VA
     
Aug 19, 2008 15:01 |  #3

I much prefer 0992 pose much more than 0990 pose.

I'm guessing that the sun was behind and slightly to the left of the subject.

So, why was no fill flash used? I'm not saying that was right or wrong. I'm just saying that on this forum we usually see people using fill flash in this situation more often than not, and I would like to understand why this picture departs from that norm.

Secondly, I am wondering why the photographer chose this vantage point rather than one in which the sun would be behind him/her.

Thirdly, has anyone ever mentioned that the ideal hours for picture taking, out of doors, is early to mid-morning and mid-afternoon to late afternoon? There is a reason for that, and it has to do with the lower angle of the sun.

Lastly, have you ever heard about "open shade". There's topic you should research, and here's a quickie on it:
===============
What is Open Shade, and How Does It Improve Outdoors Portraits?

Open shade is the shade created by a structure that blocks the direct rays of the sun but at the same time allows the bright sky itself to illuminate the subject.

Examples of Open Shade ---
Your subject is near enough to a large structure that he or she is completely in the shade of that structure. At the same time, there is little or no blocking of the open sky above the subject. In other words, if the subject were under a canopy or roof that blocks the sky, that would be shade but not "Open Shade".

What are the Advantages of Open Shade?
-- The fact that there are no direct rays of the sun falling on the subject means that there will be lower contrast light falling on the subject. The light that illuminates the subject will be from a large expanse of blue open sky and will be diffuse or soft, in comparison with the direct rays of the sun. The effect on the image will be that the facial shadows will be lighter or softer and more detailed, and the highlights will be softer and more detailed.
-- Portraits made in Open Shade will be less contrasty with softer shadows and with more detailed highlights rather than having deep black shadows in the eye sockets and under the chin and nose.
-- The subject will be able to pose without squinting.
-- There will usually be a background for the shot that is not white and blown out.
-- The camera's AutoExposure system is less likely to be confused by the extreme range of brightnesses in the scene and will be more likely to command a correct exposure.

What are the Disadvantages of Direct Sunlight?
-- A subject illuminated by direct rays of the sun will have very high overall contrast. In fact, the range of brightnesses on the subject will typically be greater than can be captured without special processing.
-- The subject will usually find it difficult to keep his eyes open without severe squinting, the shadows will be so deep and black as to be featureless or without detail.
-- The highlights of illumination on the subject will often be such a bright white that they will be featureless or without detail.
-- There will be very few elements of the subject having mid-range tonal values - everything will be either overly bright or overly dark.

What is the Quickest Way to Recognize an Overly Harsh or Contrasty Lighting Environment?
-- Look to see if the subject is casting a deep black shadow on the ground. If so, he is in the direct rays of the sun - not in Open Shade.


Bob
Quality of Light (external link), Photo Tool ver 2.0 (external link)
Canon Rebel XTi; EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-f/5.6 USM; EF-S 18-55 mm f/3.5-f/5.6; EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM; EF 50mm f/1.4 USM; Canon Powershot G5; Canon AE1(2); Leica R4s; Battery Grip BG-E3; Pentax Digital Spotmeter with Zone VI Mod & Calibration.

  
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angello
THREAD ­ STARTER
Hatchling
4 posts
Joined Aug 2008
     
Aug 21, 2008 13:32 |  #4

Robert_Lay wrote in post #6139026 (external link)
I much prefer 0992 pose much more than 0990 pose.

I'm guessing that the sun was behind and slightly to the left of the subject.

So, why was no fill flash used? I'm not saying that was right or wrong. I'm just saying that on this forum we usually see people using fill flash in this situation more often than not, and I would like to understand why this picture departs from that norm.

Secondly, I am wondering why the photographer chose this vantage point rather than one in which the sun would be behind him/her.

Thirdly, has anyone ever mentioned that the ideal hours for picture taking, out of doors, is early to mid-morning and mid-afternoon to late afternoon? There is a reason for that, and it has to do with the lower angle of the sun.

Lastly, have you ever heard about "open shade". There's topic you should research, and here's a quickie on it:
===============
What is Open Shade, and How Does It Improve Outdoors Portraits?

Open shade is the shade created by a structure that blocks the direct rays of the sun but at the same time allows the bright sky itself to illuminate the subject.

Examples of Open Shade ---
Your subject is near enough to a large structure that he or she is completely in the shade of that structure. At the same time, there is little or no blocking of the open sky above the subject. In other words, if the subject were under a canopy or roof that blocks the sky, that would be shade but not "Open Shade".

What are the Advantages of Open Shade?
-- The fact that there are no direct rays of the sun falling on the subject means that there will be lower contrast light falling on the subject. The light that illuminates the subject will be from a large expanse of blue open sky and will be diffuse or soft, in comparison with the direct rays of the sun. The effect on the image will be that the facial shadows will be lighter or softer and more detailed, and the highlights will be softer and more detailed.
-- Portraits made in Open Shade will be less contrasty with softer shadows and with more detailed highlights rather than having deep black shadows in the eye sockets and under the chin and nose.
-- The subject will be able to pose without squinting.
-- There will usually be a background for the shot that is not white and blown out.
-- The camera's AutoExposure system is less likely to be confused by the extreme range of brightnesses in the scene and will be more likely to command a correct exposure.

What are the Disadvantages of Direct Sunlight?
-- A subject illuminated by direct rays of the sun will have very high overall contrast. In fact, the range of brightnesses on the subject will typically be greater than can be captured without special processing.
-- The subject will usually find it difficult to keep his eyes open without severe squinting, the shadows will be so deep and black as to be featureless or without detail.
-- The highlights of illumination on the subject will often be such a bright white that they will be featureless or without detail.
-- There will be very few elements of the subject having mid-range tonal values - everything will be either overly bright or overly dark.

What is the Quickest Way to Recognize an Overly Harsh or Contrasty Lighting Environment?
-- Look to see if the subject is casting a deep black shadow on the ground. If so, he is in the direct rays of the sun - not in Open Shade.

thanks!
anyone else?




  
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