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Thread started 25 Aug 2008 (Monday) 07:31
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Using CPL and GND filters at the same time

 
fi20100
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Aug 25, 2008 07:31 |  #1

I was thinking of getting a B+W CPL (MRC) and a B+W GND 25% (0.6 – 4x) for my 17-40L. At the moment I’m using a 350D, but I’m hoping to go FF at some point.

1) Would it make a lot of sense getting the slim version of the CPL? I’ve just understood that they are quite a bit harder to use.

2) Using both the CPL and GND at the same time, will it vignette really bad (especially if I used it ona 5D)? So bad it’s unfixable in Lightroom?

3) If you stacked the two, would you put the CPL or GND closer to the lens?

4) I’ve read about Lee and Cokin filter systems, and I’ve understood these are quite popular when it comes to combining several filters. Is that the only sensible way to go about?


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Aug 25, 2008 08:23 |  #2

2) Using both the CPL and GND at the same time, will it vignette really bad (especially if I used it ona 5D)? So bad it’s unfixable in Lightroom?

Depends on what focal length you use. You just have to try it out.
I like the Conkin system because you can vary the distance of the GND from the lens for a harder edge to the graduation.

3) If you stacked the two, would you put the CPL or GND closer to the lens?

CPL on the lens, but you'll probably have to keep the GND bracket it loose to adjust the effect of the CPL & re-adjust the GND. It will be a PITA.


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fi20100
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Aug 25, 2008 14:37 |  #3

Thanks Frank.

What I like about the filters that you put on the lens (instead of the Cokin or Lee systems) is that they are so small and could always be in a pocket in the camera bag. I guess I should start by getting the B+W CPL MRC (non-slim), and then have to think about what I'll do about the GND...


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gjl711
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Aug 25, 2008 14:48 |  #4

Why not use the photoshop trick to perform the function the GND and just use the CPL on lens?


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Aug 25, 2008 14:51 |  #5

gjl711 wrote in post #6175723 (external link)
Why not use the photoshop trick to perform the function the GND and just use the CPL on lens?

Sometimes the dynamic range of the scene exceeds what the camera can capture to the point that it's not the same. Usually looks better with a filter even when that's not the case IMO.

Still, I'd put the polarizer closest to the lens, but I also wouldn't buy round/threaded GND filters. They seem rather pointless and limited in use to me since you can't adjust the positioning of the edge, only its angle. I'd suggest looking in to something like the Cokin Z or P systems.


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fi20100
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Aug 25, 2008 14:55 |  #6

gjl711 wrote in post #6175723 (external link)
Why not use the photoshop trick to perform the function the GND and just use the CPL on lens?

Of course that might be the solution for some shots. Usually I like to get it as right as possible in the camera though. And in some situations it's just not possible to get the same effect in PS.

emorphien wrote in post #6175748 (external link)
Sometimes the dynamic range of the scene exceeds what the camera can capture to the point that it's not the same. Usually looks better with a filter even when that's not the case IMO.

Still, I'd put the polarizer closest to the lens, but I also wouldn't buy round/threaded GND filters. They seem rather pointless and limited in use to me since you can't adjust the positioning of the edge, only its angle. I'd suggest looking in to something like the Cokin Z or P systems.

Thanks... I'll order the CPL first, and then I'll go and check a local store and ask about the Cokin system :)


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Using CPL and GND filters at the same time
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