Wireless triggers, or light meter?

Hi all,

I'm stuck. So, where do I turn to, for help...but this wonderful forum. I've read tons about flash, and lighting, and setups, etc., etc. As a result, hope someone can help.

I suppose wireless triggers and light meters go hand in hand. I won't be able to purchase both, all at once...so, I guess, which is the better one to start with?

I have 2 580EX flashes, so, I know that one can be on cam, and the other, off. That 'kinda' takes care of the wireless part (for the short term). Though I'd like to have both of them off cam., it's gonna take either Radio Poppers, PW's, Alien Bees Triggers, or Elinchromes.

But, let's say I did go with the above...wouldn't a light meter be a better way to start, so that I can take incident readings, once the flash heads are set up the way I need them to be.

I dunno, I'm a little lost...but, need to figure it out quick. Thanks for the help/suggestions/etc. in advance.

I'd go wireless first. You can always use your camera as a light meter. It just takes a bit longer.

Ok, so, let's say I were to go with an ST-E2 and Radio Poppers. This would eliminate the purchase of other cords and cables, needed to attach the 580's, correct?

Otherwise, since the 580 doesn't have sync ports, I'd have to get hot shoe adapters, for both flashes, and the camera's hot shoe moun, as well as a transciever and two receivers, right?

So, if I went with Pocket wizards, I'd have to get 3 items, and all the adapters/cables/etc.

This is where I'm a bit more confused. I know FlashZebra has all I need...in terms of the setting up of it all..., but, I just fall further and further into the pit.

Suggestions?

It can be a bit confusing to go wireless because there are several options. Which one is best for you is hard to say....only you can make that decision.

For me, I went a slightly different route. For my portable set up's, I chose a 580EX and an OC-E3 cord for on-camera flash. Two Sunpac 383's for off-camera work triggered via pocket wizards. The reason I chose PW's was to be able to trigger a remote camera if needed. I also have a Vivitar 283 with a light trigger.

I also own four studio strobes for those times when only a studio strobe will work.

So, in your instance, for the portable setup, the OC-E3 attaches to the hotshoe. Then the 580 goes off camera, via the coiled cord, and you can either hold the flash in hand, or set it up on a stand if desired. Right?

In addition to the above, you have two sunpak 383's attached to pocket wizard receivers, but, where is the transmitted located? On the hotshoe, with the OC-E3 attached, or then you don't?

Got a picture of it, by any stroke of luck? That would so help my cause....haha. I guess I'm having issues envisioning it.

Here are some pic's of my set up when I want to use the 580EX on a flash bracket and the Sunpack's off-camera fired via the pocket wizards. The PW plugs into the sync port of the camera. I've attached an extra hot shoe to my flash bracket to hold the PW. If I just want to use off camera flash, the PW attaches to the hotshoe of the camera.

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and here's a shot of some testing I was doing with a remote camera syncing with an off camera flash all fired via pocket wizards. It wasn't always successful. I need to get a different remote cable (PW to camera remote) to make it work.

Very well. That explains it. Thanks so much for your help.

Now, the cable that attaches from the camera to the pocket wizard...purchasable separately, I assume? You claim yours yours wasn't realiable, but, did you find a 'better' replacement? Given I don't have a remote trigger for the cam, I suppose the corded switch that I do have will suffice...for now.

Again, I really appreciate it, and now, with the flash bracket in the equation, it makes so much more sense. As a result, you basically have a portable 3 flash solution. Very cool.

Oh, one more question...the transceiver stays close to the camera. Have a picture of the 'receiver' over there, on the light stand? Thanks again....really do appreciate all the help.

I'll suggest a different approach - buy the light meter first. You can use it in all sorts of situations. And with 2 580EX units you can use ETTL which doesn't really require a meter.

Titus213 wrote in post #6219973
I'll suggest a different approach - buy the light meter first. You can use it in all sorts of situations. And with 2 580EX units you can use ETTL which doesn't really require a meter.

That sounds a little contradictory to me? Maybe I am wrong. If the 2 580's can utilize E-TTL, and don't really require a meter, then, why buy a separate meter? Please correct me if I am wrong here.

inthedeck wrote in post #6220029
That sounds a little contradictory to me? Maybe I am wrong. If the 2 580's can utilize E-TTL, and don't really require a meter, then, why buy a separate meter? Please correct me if I am wrong here.

I might ask why you want wireless triggers for flash units with wireless capability....

I think a meter would be useful in other situations and you can use it with your 580s in manual mode to learn manual flash/studio flash before deciding if you want wireless triggers for units that have built in wireless capability. A meter just has more global use than wireless triggers.

Titus213 wrote in post #6220333
I might ask why you want wireless triggers for flash units with wireless capability....

I think a meter would be useful in other situations and you can use it with your 580s in manual mode to learn manual flash/studio flash before deciding if you want wireless triggers for units that have built in wireless capability. A meter just has more global use than wireless triggers.

Touche.

I beleive you may be right...I can figure everything out with the flashes. I just want to know if they will work well at the beach, but, I have a feeling they will...once I make them work! The lightmeter, I would guess, will work better here...before Sunrise.

Thanks!

The Canon system is less than perfect. You will have to make sure the slave can see the master, may even have to point the master directly at the slave, but it does work.

Titus213 wrote in post #6220390
The Canon system is less than perfect. You will have to make sure the slave can see the master, may even have to point the master directly at the slave, but it does work.

I've been playing with it, in limited capacity. Guess I just gotta get outside with it, and figure it out. That's all.

inthedeck wrote in post #6219781
Very well. That explains it. Thanks so much for your help.

Now, the cable that attaches from the camera to the pocket wizard...purchasable separately, I assume? You claim yours yours wasn't realiable, but, did you find a 'better' replacement? Given I don't have a remote trigger for the cam, I suppose the corded switch that I do have will suffice...for now.

Again, I really appreciate it, and now, with the flash bracket in the equation, it makes so much more sense. As a result, you basically have a portable 3 flash solution. Very cool.

Oh, one more question...the transceiver stays close to the camera. Have a picture of the 'receiver' over there, on the light stand? Thanks again....really do appreciate all the help.

My camera cable was reliable for it's intended purpose which is to fire the camera. However, I've learned that I need a different cable if I want to sync the remote camera to a flash via the main camera. What I was trying to do was to fire two cameras and have both sync with my flashes.

The pocket wizard is connected to the flash via a short sync cable. You can kind of make out the receiver on the light stand, hanging by it's strap. I've since added some pocket wizard caddys to make things a bit neater.