Learning to use my new speedlite

What should I do different with this??

IMAGE LINK: http://imageshack.us

The picture was taken with f/2.8 and 1/10" and an ISO setting of 200. That is too long an exposure for hand held. So, you are lucky that it is as sharp as it is. We have no way of knowing what exposure would be called for were the flash not used, so we don't know how much the flash contributed and how much the ambient light contributed.

The expsosure defined by the aperture, shutter and ISO would be exactly correct for a typical home office environment (EV 5 1/3). That leads me to believe that the speedlite is contributing very little to the image - probably enough to be considered as a token amount of fill light.

I would suggest that you look at higher shutter speeds in order to remove any possibility of ghosting due to camera movement.

I would also strongly recommend that the flash be used in bounce configuration in order to reduce or eliminate those hot spots that are so characteristics of direct flash (the hot spot at the end of the nose and the hot spots in the ear). I acknowledge that there is a possibility that you are using bounce or a diffuser of some sort, but the hot spots suggest otherwise.

Another suggestion would be to take the picture from further away with a longer lens in order to create a little more softness in the light.

Robert_Lay wrote in post #6222649
The picture was taken with f/2.8 and 1/10" and an ISO setting of 200. That is too long an exposure for hand held. So, you are lucky that it is as sharp as it is.

I would suggest that you look at higher shutter speeds in order to remove any possibility of ghosting due to camera movement.

I would also strongly recommend that the flash be used in bounce configuration in order to reduce or eliminate those hot spots that are so characteristics of direct flash (the hot spot at the end of the nose and the hot spots in the ear). I acknowledge that there is a possibility that you are using bounce or a diffuser of some sort, but the hot spots suggest otherwise.

Another suggestion would be to take the picture from further away with a longer lens in order to create a little more softness in the light.

I would agree. Great advise.

To me, it looks like an outdoor shot in low light conditions. Also, the very sharp shadow lines around the lips, nose, neck, and ear (in addition to the hot spots and reflection in the eyes) suggest that the flash was direct and provided essentially all of the light. I would do as Robert suggested and use bounce lighting to soften the sharp edges. If you don't have a ceiling handy, then you can improvise with a white card or use some other bounce technique.

Yes I was outside on tripod and was meterd for the back ground with flash at 45 degrees with diffuser.....This speed lite is really making my head spin!

If you expose for the background at -2 stops, that will leave enough ambient light to affect the overall image. Then use f8 to keep the entire subject in focus and you can use a shutter speed of about 1/20 and adjust iso accordingly whilst using the speedlite (preferably bounced) to illuminate the subject. You can get away with using 1/20, even hand held, because the flash will freeze the subject.

paulie8pointer wrote in post #6223241
Yes I was outside on tripod and was meterd for the back ground with flash at 45 degrees with diffuser.....This speed lite is really making my head spin!

I hadn't counted on the tripod, since hardly anyone knows what that is anymore

Robert_Lay wrote in post #6225543
I hadn't counted on the tripod, since hardly anyone knows what that is anymore

So, are you just going to leave us in suspense?

bill boehme wrote in post #6226917
So, are you just going to leave us in suspense?

Ha Ha!
It's just another archaic tool that no one uses any more - just like lens hoods

Am I reading this wrong?

Which would make it more of a point source, right? So, a harder light from a greater distance, unless you're counting on some bounce from a ceiling which isn't present here.
If you had a bounce card or wall near the subject that the strobe could hit, that might help in this situation.

PhotosGuy wrote in post #6232220
Am I reading this wrong? Which would make it more of a point source, right? So, a harder light from a greater distance, unless you're counting on some bounce from a ceiling which isn't present here.
If you had a bounce card or wall near the subject that the strobe could hit, that might help in this situation.

I had forgotten that I had assumed the outdoor environment. So, under those conditions, you are quite correct - backing up would not help. Backing up only helps when indoors with highly reflective and close walls and ceiling.