Battery Grip... when did you really need it?

I shoot portrait style almost as much as normal. So its always a must.

I needed a place for my ring and pinky finger to go on my XTi.

gary88 wrote in post #6277073
I needed a place for my ring and pinky finger to go on my XTi.

Gary,, that was a major gripe with the XT series,, too small for "normal" male hands.. Without a grip my pinky and ring fingers would flap in the beeze..

I'm even finding my pinky is on the verge of falling off my 40D. Can't wait for my grip to arrive

Jimmer411 wrote in post #6274642
I shoot portrait style almost as much as normal. So its always a must.

So do I. That coupled with the fact that the Rebel series bodies feel pretty unbalanced and uncomfortable w/o the grip attatched.

wallybud wrote in post #6269591
I think your hallucinating how much does the grip weight btw? I always see that like 5 pound ball in the back of photo mags that screws into the tripod part on the bottom of the body...Its suppose to allow you to take handheld shots up to 1 second...but thats a LOT more weight haha

I think what you're referring to here is a gyroscopic stabilizer, rather than just a weight that hangs under the camera.

Wilt wrote in post #6273349
In the days of film cameras, the add-on grip provided motor drive for faster advancing the film and winding the shutter,

This is how I got started with grips on cameras back in the 1980's. I added motor drives to my Minolta X-700s for the rapid shooting (and because they made me look more like a pro :rolleyes but soon discovered the drive made the camera easier to hold and there was a vertical button. When I switched to Canon in 1999 I bought a pair of A2 cameras. The grip on the A2 was not a battery grip but only gave vertical controls. By this time I was so used to the grip it seemed only natural to add them to the A2's.

Shortly therafter I bought a used EOS 1 (the ancestor of all the Series 1 cameras) which had the grip included. BTW, the grip did not become an integral part of the Series 1 cameras until the release of the first 1D. Throughout the entire run of EOS 1 cameras (EOS 1, 1N, 1N RS and 1V) it was an added accessory that gave vertical controls and added fps. It wasn't even called a grip but was known as a power booster.

I have gotten so used to the grips that it is the first accessory I buy for a camera. I never remove them from the cameras except for cleaning. I just can't see shooting without them...

everyday, because I love my E1 handstrap and couldnt be with out it

Is it normal for the battery to show as almost empty, very quickly when using the grip?
Im sure its not supposed to be this way but i also think its not reflecting the correct charge so im not too worried.
I put my grip on yesterday and within a few shots noticed the indicator was showing low. Took the grip off and the battery is showing full again.

It is not normal and it is not correct, but it is not unheard of. Apparently, Canon had a problem a good while back with their grip and they had to be recalled to be fixed in some way. It's anybody's guess what the situation is with third party grips. AIUI the problem is poor contact between the power supply from the grip and the contacts in the camera. I don't know what the ordinary mortal can do to resolve that, other than make sure the grip is attached firmly - not overtightened as you can strip the tightening thumbwheel altogether and create more problems for yourself.

You may find the power comes up if you wriggle/jiggle or twist the grip a bit, or push it more firmly up against the camera. That would be a fairly sure sign of poor contacts, I think. AFAIK the resolution is to get a replacement grip that is designed and manufactured properly.

FWIW I have a grip for my 30D and have never ever had this problem.

EDIT : Actually, another thought - there has been talk recently of problems of vanishing battery power with the 40D and a Canon EF 85mm f/1.2L USM lens attached, when the camera works for a few shots - maybe 5 or 20 or so - and then the battery seems to crash and burn. This has been attributed to a poor contact being made when you close the lid to the battery compartment. There is a little recess in the body, into which a nub on the flap is inserted when you colse the lid. This re-enables power to the camera after you have opened the lid. The solution to the lens problem is to put some tape over the recess (you'll need to find pictures) to create more positive physical pressure on this switch mechanism when the lid is closed and the nub goes into the hole. Maybe the same design applies with the grip, and there is a nub on the grip that needs a little encouragement to more strongly push into the recess. Just an idea.

EDIT : Picture down this page - http://www.fredmiranda​.com/forum/topic/66141​6

I'd always felt that shooting in portrait mode was awkward, but when I really started wanting one was when I started shooting my son's soccer match. Twisting your wrist for an hour at a time really hurts..

JWright wrote in post #6284384
Throughout the entire run of EOS 1 cameras (EOS 1, 1N, 1N RS and 1V) it was an added accessory that gave vertical controls and added fps. It wasn't even called a grip but was known as a power booster.

EOS 1n RS had a power drive booster E1 permanently attached.

tdodd wrote in post #6285055
It is not normal and it is not correct, but it is not unheard of. Apparently, Canon had a problem a good while back with their grip and they had to be recalled to be fixed in some way. It's anybody's guess what the situation is with third party grips. AIUI the problem is poor contact between the power supply from the grip and the contacts in the camera. I don't know what the ordinary mortal can do to resolve that, other than make sure the grip is attached firmly - not overtightened as you can strip the tightening thumbwheel altogether and create more problems for yourself.

You may find the power comes up if you wriggle/jiggle or twist the grip a bit, or push it more firmly up against the camera. That would be a fairly sure sign of poor contacts, I think. AFAIK the resolution is to get a replacement grip that is designed and manufactured properly.

FWIW I have a grip for my 30D and have never ever had this problem.

EDIT : Actually, another thought - there has been talk recently of problems of vanishing battery power with the 40D and a Canon EF 85mm f/1.2L USM lens attached, when the camera works for a few shots - maybe 5 or 20 or so - and then the battery seems to crash and burn. This has been attributed to a poor contact being made when you close the lid to the battery compartment. There is a little recess in the body, into which a nub on the flap is inserted when you colse the lid. This re-enables power to the camera after you have opened the lid. The solution to the lens problem is to put some tape over the recess (you'll need to find pictures) to create more positive physical pressure on this switch mechanism when the lid is closed and the nub goes into the hole. Maybe the same design applies with the grip, and there is a nub on the grip that needs a little encouragement to more strongly push into the recess. Just an idea.

EDIT : Picture down this page - http://www.fredmiranda​.com/forum/topic/66141​6

Thanks for posting that reply and link.
Funny thing, when i put my new 24-105L on my 40D (no grip attached) and left it over night on a fully charged battery the next day it was showing as nearly empty. I put it down to either i hadn't charged it full (not likely as i saw the fully charged light on on the charger) or the lens might have drained the battery. I re charged it and have left the camera on for three days (going in to standby after 2 mins) and the problem never came back.
After using my 17-55IS last night i got home and put my grip and 24-105L back on and within a few mins the indicator was showing low. took the grip off (its a genuine Canon one) and left the camera in standby again and this morning its still showing full.
Not sure what to make off all this but it could well be battery itself i guess.

AdamC wrote in post #6285130
I'd always felt that shooting in portrait mode was awkward, but when I really started wanting one was when I started shooting my son's soccer match. Twisting your wrist for an hour at a time really hurts..

It sounds like you must rotate your camera clockwise rather than counterclockwise to Portrait position...putting the hand in a quasi military hand salute position doesn't distort the wrist into painful positions. There are other advantages from counterclockwise, too!

Wilt wrote in post #6286056
It sounds like you must rotate your camera clockwise rather than counterclockwise to Portrait position...putting the hand in a quasi military hand salute position doesn't distort the wrist into painful positions. There are other advantages from counterclockwise, too!

Well I wouldn't call it distorting into a painful position exactly, but it does get very tiresome to do for an hour at a time. I shoot soccer 100% in portrait mode.

I used to rotate CW with my P&S but can't do it at all with my SLR.

AdamC wrote in post #6288673
I used to rotate CW with my P&S but can't do it at all with my SLR.

P&S usage starts people off with all sorts of very BAD habits...like holding the dammed camera at arm's length in front of you. CW rotation is another one!

You mentioned 'twisting wrist...hurts',not 'holding arm up for a long time hurts', which mislead me about your complaint. Keep doing it and your upper arm will become stronger and stop hurting!