How use Reflectors to shape light on person?

I want to be able to shape the light on the face and body like in a magazine.
I want to be able to focus the light on pieces of the face or body for artistic look with shadows and light.

I tried a 7inch reflector bowl and 30degree grid that came with my lighting kit and I shot it directly straight at the model's face/body.
The light seemed harsh and I saw these (very bright) hot spots on the face and body which I do not want.

How am I suppose to use the reflectors to shape light onto the body?
Any recommendation on which are best reflector sizes and grids to invest in? benefit of 7inch vs 9 vs 12 inch reflectors for use on person?
Anything to soften the hotspots?
Should I invest in barndoors to shape light?

How about shooting through an umbrella on to the model's face with the reflector under the face?

Actually, you should probably consider either umbrellas or a softbox to soften the main light on your subject and use the grid to direct your background or hair light where you want it. You can use a second light or bounce-type reflector to round out the light and avoid hard shadows, unless that's what you're going for.

Reflectors do a good job of bouncing light into areas but they're not good at "shaping" light.

Umbrellas are good at providing soft, even light but they're not good at directing light. Think of an umbrella as a "light grenade".

Barn doors work well on fresnel type of lights for cutting off unwanted light. Flags (black panels mounted on C-stands) work better. Fresnels have the ability to focus the light thru a lens. They provide very directional light but are harsh.

Soft boxes provide a nice, soft light and if used with a grid, they provide a good amount of spill control.

Watch this.... http://www.youtube.com​/watch?v=mUJKqzlRtYo

It is about product photography, but the lessons with the reflectors can be used for headshots. Watch how he can fill the subject with light from all angles useing only 1 light.

Mark1 wrote in post #6233712
Watch this.... http://www.youtube.com​/watch?v=mUJKqzlRtYo

It is about product photography, but the lessons with the reflectors can be used for headshots. Watch how he can fill the subject with light from all angles useing only 1 light.

awesome link. Thanks!