Took what seemed like a million shots, I need to get back out a give it another go.
CC please.
I believe it was 1/60 f11 and iso 100. 20d and 10-22mm
mikeassk Goldmember  2,329 posts Likes: 3 Joined Aug 2006 Location: San Diego/ San Fran/ Berkeley More info | Sep 10, 2008 19:01 | #1 Took what seemed like a million shots, I need to get back out a give it another go.
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namasste Cream of the Crop  6,911 posts Likes: 140 Joined Jul 2007 Location: NE Ohio More info | Sep 10, 2008 20:27 | #2 hope you aren't offended but it doesn't really look like a pan at all. more like a slow shutter and the rider just blew on by. make sure you are in servo, ctr pt, and get that thing locked on your rider then track like Jeramiah Johnson all the way through the frame. Scott Evans Photography
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mikeassk THREAD STARTER Goldmember 2,329 posts Likes: 3 Joined Aug 2006 Location: San Diego/ San Fran/ Berkeley More info | Sep 10, 2008 20:41 | #3 Hey when i ask for CC i want to get ripped apart. I put this up cause it doesn't look like a panning shot, and i want it to. I did follow the rider through the pan but your right, this one does not work... this one was on similar very settings:
My next question is what are some successful Shutter speeds for cycling? I know there are a lot of variations.
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Dan-o Goldmember  3,539 posts Likes: 2 Joined Apr 2006 Location: So. Cal. More info | Sep 10, 2008 21:29 | #4 Just speed it up a bit to 100 or 120 you don't need 60 to get a good blurred back ground. I does take practice to get a nice fluid motion through the shot. Danny.
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namasste Cream of the Crop 6,911 posts Likes: 140 Joined Jul 2007 Location: NE Ohio More info | Sep 10, 2008 21:46 | #5 Dan-o wrote in post #6283646  Just speed it up a bit to 100 or 120 you don't need 60 to get a good blurred back ground. I does take practice to get a nice fluid motion through the shot. and once you get it down, 1/30 to 1/40 should be doable, even at speed. I practice on cars all the time. My neighbors (and the drivers) think it's really odd (my family already accepts this). Try it and then try it some more. remember to use servo though and single point focus, it'll really help. Scott Evans Photography
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mikeassk THREAD STARTER Goldmember 2,329 posts Likes: 3 Joined Aug 2006 Location: San Diego/ San Fran/ Berkeley More info | Sep 10, 2008 21:49 | #6 namasste wrote in post #6283757 and once you get it down, 1/30 to 1/40 should be doable, even at speed. I practice on cars all the time. My neighbors (and the drivers) think it's really odd (my family already accepts this). Try it and then try it some more. remember to use servo though and single point focus, it'll really help. Dan...tomorrow's the big day! Thanks scott!
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mikeassk THREAD STARTER Goldmember 2,329 posts Likes: 3 Joined Aug 2006 Location: San Diego/ San Fran/ Berkeley More info | Sep 10, 2008 21:49 | #7 Dan-o wrote in post #6283646 Just speed it up a bit to 100 or 120 you don't need 60 to get a good blurred back ground. I does take practice to get a nice fluid motion through the shot. Thanks!
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Dan-o Goldmember 3,539 posts Likes: 2 Joined Apr 2006 Location: So. Cal. More info | Sep 10, 2008 21:56 | #8 First one is 125s second is 50s.
If you want to do some artistic blurs try to get the face in focus. I think 250s with flash at 1/8th.
Danny.
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Dan-o Goldmember 3,539 posts Likes: 2 Joined Apr 2006 Location: So. Cal. More info | Sep 10, 2008 21:58 | #9 Dan...tomorrow's the big day! I can't find one. I have an email alert set up at 4 different stores. Can't wait to see your shots. Danny.
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namasste Cream of the Crop 6,911 posts Likes: 140 Joined Jul 2007 Location: NE Ohio More info | Sep 10, 2008 22:02 | #10 Dan-o wrote in post #6283828 I can't find one. I have an email alert set up at 4 different stores. Can't wait to see your shots. there was one for sale here...https://photography-on-the.net …34&postcount=1...arrgghhh, just checked and it sold 2 hrs ago. I'll keep my eyes out for ya. Scott Evans Photography
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namasste Cream of the Crop 6,911 posts Likes: 140 Joined Jul 2007 Location: NE Ohio More info | here's a couple more samples at higher speeds (I thought I had a couple somewhere in there). apologies that they are rather weak images but they illustrate the point so forgive me.   Scott Evans Photography
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BigHands Goldmember 1,464 posts Likes: 1 Joined Mar 2005 Location: Southern California More info | Sep 11, 2008 01:28 | #12 So, are you looking for something like this?
Or possibly something more like this?
The thing is, both of these were shot at the same shutter speed (1/40th). It's not just about shutter speed. It's a combination of how fast the subject is moving and how far you are from it that will determine how quickly you must pan the camera. If both cyclists are moving at 25mph and I'm shooting both at 1/40th, the one that I am closer to (assuming I pan accurately enough to capture the subject with decent sharpness) will be the most distorted. In the first shot, I was probably 25 feet away and in the second shot, I was maybe 10 to 12 feet away. Here's another that was shot under 10 feet away (more like 7 or 8 feet away) at (get this) 1/80th, but since it was so close, I really had to pan the camera very quickly, hence the extreme distortion (all done 'in-camera'):
And here is another at 1/80th where I was farther away and thus panning slower.
You just have to do a little on the spot experimenting to find the right settings for how far away you are and how fast they are moving to get the effect you're looking for. The way I set my camera is to use Tv to have ultimate control over the shutter speed. I don't use manual as the light can change as you pan up to 90 degrees and I let the camera choose the aperture. I (obviously) like to keep ISO as low as possible, but when shooting in bright sunlight with the shutter speed so slow, it can be difficult to keep the aperture at less than the lens' minimum without resorting to a higher ISO. There are a few other things to be aware of. * Because of the physics of panning that have you shooting the cyclist from the side rather than straight on, during the time the shutter is open, the front of the bicycle is moving toward the camera at a slightly different speed than the rear of the bicycle. This is why you get only a part of the bike sharp. I have the best luck getting the face of the rider sharp when the cyclist is at about a 45 degree angle to me and I get my centerpoint focused on their chest or head. * I have had good luck using a variety of different lenses. Even the EF-S 17-85 IS and 18-55 kit lens have worked very well for me. * If you have dust in your lens, as is common on some EF-S 17-55 f/2.8is lenses, and pan using the smallest aperture settings (especially if you lens can stop down to f/22 or similar), the lens dust will show up looking very similar to sensor dust. I would only see the specks when panning at slow shutter speeds while using the smallest aperture settings. I cleaned my sensor 'til I was blue in the face, yet it didn't go away until I had the lens cleaned. * You just have to get out there and experiment. I would recommend crits races for panning as you get many, many chances to shoot the riders as you will have a much lower keeper rate when panning at slow shutter speeds. If you have shots you must get, you might start by getting those at more conservative shutter speeds and then start getting riskier. The higher the risk (faster pans with slower shutter speeds), the greater possible reward if you're looking for the most distortion. Dan-O, I imagine you would be using second curtain synch on those flash shots? Hope this helps, Jeff Canon 20D w/grip, 300D, Powershot SX100 w/HF-DC1 flash, Canon 70-200 f/2.8L, 85 f/1.8, 17-55 f/2.8 IS, 50 f/1.8, 580EX and some other stuff...
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Keegan Senior Member  268 posts Joined Apr 2007 Location: DC More info | Sep 11, 2008 02:36 | #13 haha, kind of OT, but I love the Rock Racing jerseys. If they weren't so much I'd definitely get it as my main riding shirt.
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namasste Cream of the Crop 6,911 posts Likes: 140 Joined Jul 2007 Location: NE Ohio More info | Sep 11, 2008 08:18 | #14 Big Hands wrote in post #6284678 Or possibly something more like this?
The way I set my camera is to use Tv to have ultimate control over the shutter speed. I don't use manual as the light can change as you pan up to 90 degrees and I let the camera choose the aperture. I (obviously) like to keep ISO as low as possible, but when shooting in bright sunlight with the shutter speed so slow, it can be difficult to keep the aperture at less than the lens' minimum without resorting to a higher ISO. Hope this helps, Jeff First, the shot I left in the quote is just butta!!! man is that solid. In regards to the text, I'd add another settings point to this that can (and very well might) make all the difference. CF4-1! Separating the exposure from the focus allows you to track the moving cyclist as you pan while all the while letting the camera meter light so that exposure is set when you press the shutter, not locked on when you start panning. This will give you more consistent exposures imo. Scott Evans Photography
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