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Thread started 04 Oct 2008 (Saturday) 04:31
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How do I lubricate my balls?

 
ben_r_
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Oct 04, 2008 11:03 |  #16

Have any of you thought (or already done so) to contact the manufacturers and inquire about this? Why not go straight to the source? I know Markins and RRS both would be more than happy to thoroughly answer this kind of question, and if you can get the contact info for them Im very sure Bogen and Gitzo would be as well. Id start there if I were you OP.


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Wilt
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Oct 04, 2008 11:12 |  #17

From Markins instructions:

"The Markins Q-Ball is manufactured with high precision parts.
Clean your unit if it is contaminated by foreign materials such as dirt,
sand, salty water, lubricant, etc., to ensure smooth and trouble-free
operation. Follow the cleaning instructions carefully.
Fasten (CW) the ball locking knob
Unscrew (CCW) the torque limit dial if it is set
Free the ball by unfasten (CCW) the ball
locking knob and remove any visible foreign
materials from the surface of the ball
Lower the quick shoe
Apply about 3 drops of WD-40 to the ballRotate the ball to spread the solution on the
whole surface of the ball
Rotate the ball several times and clean the
surface with clean, lint-free cotton cloth
The thin film of WD-40 left on the surface does not degrade the
performance of the ball head.
...
Notes
Do not force the ball locking knob to its CCW limit. It can be
locked if the torque limit dial is in use. If locked, unscrew the torque
limit dial with a screw driver, and hold the ball locking knob tight and
apply some impulsive torsional force to unlock it.
Ensure that the quick shoe clamp is tightened when the unit is
transported over a significant time span. (Prevent missing knob)
Clean and dry after using at sea or salty site.
Dry after using the unit when it gets moisture or submerged in water.
Do not subject the unit to dust, dirt or sand.
Use only alcohol or WD-40 for cleaning. Do not use any kind of
solvent such as benzene or thinner
, etc.
Do not apply any kind of lubricant to the ball.Keep out of reach of children.
Be careful not to harm others while carrying.
Do not force the ball locking knob to its CCW limit while the ball is
in loosened condition. Doing so might damage the internal parts.
Before going out to the field in cold weather, cleaning can enhance
trouble-free operation and prevent from getting moisture and
freezing."


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ben_r_
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Oct 04, 2008 12:10 |  #18

^^^^ Well there you have it then. Thank you Wilt. :)


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Nathan
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Oct 04, 2008 18:22 |  #19

My balls are dry... i don't think there's any sort of factory lubricant or anything that came on it.


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siejones
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Oct 05, 2008 03:10 |  #20

Thanks everyone :)

It seems everyone agrees that they must be dry. It looks like I am going to have to try and find a way to dismantle the manfrotto 486rc2 so I can clean it properly.

Reign wrote in post #6438122 (external link)
My balls are dry... i don't think there's any sort of factory lubricant or anything that came on it.

muuuuustt resist :lol:


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Nathan
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Oct 05, 2008 03:23 |  #21

first was intentional... the second part is all you

but seriously? your balls were oiled?


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siejones
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Oct 05, 2008 03:37 |  #22

Reign wrote in post #6440065 (external link)
first was intentional... the second part is all you

but seriously? your balls were oiled?

lol yeah yeah :lol:

Yes the manfrotto came with a grey grease on it that eventually wore off. It has been said on here that it is probably just put on for storage.


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Deckham
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Oct 05, 2008 06:10 |  #23

siejones wrote in post #6440101 (external link)
lol yeah yeah :lol:

Yes the manfrotto came with a grey grease on it that eventually wore off. It has been said on here that it is probably just put on for storage.

Same here - with something that feels and looks exactly like the lithium grease I used to use on slide projector internals.


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Faolan
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Oct 05, 2008 08:03 |  #24

I posted a similar question a few months back for my 488 and ended up cleaning the head with WD40 in the end. Dismantling it isn't easy and not for the faint hearted, unfortunately the site I had bookmarked has gone dark.

My procedure was to get a lint free cloth and put some WD 40 on it, and then cleaned all the exposed surfaces of any dirt/debris. Turn the head incremently so that you can get as much access to the surface as possible. Takes a wee while but you'll get there in the end. Took me about 2-3 hours or so making sure it was clean and safe to use.

Once I did this I did tests with the head locked down and tried twisting the head for any give or movement, if I felt any I would then clean the head with a fresh dry cloth, keep doing this till there is no give.


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Oct 05, 2008 08:40 |  #25

milorad wrote in post #6435098 (external link)
I'm not a big fan of balls

WAKE UP, OL TITLE FAIRY. :lol: :lol:




  
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MDJAK
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Oct 05, 2008 08:41 |  #26

btw, this thread just made my day. Wilt's answer has me cracking up.

Just too funny.

me




  
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Nick5
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Oct 06, 2008 00:02 |  #27

:lol:
Yo Jones.
Love the title.


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Oct 06, 2008 00:34 |  #28

siejones wrote in post #6440101 (external link)
Yes the manfrotto came with a grey grease on it that eventually wore off. It has been said on here that it is probably just put on for storage.

I'll second this; my Manfrotto ballhead still shows some sort of grey-ish lubricant on it. I don't imagine that totally clean & dry was their intent, or it wouldn't have been lubed in the first place.


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Baddrummerboyy
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Oct 06, 2008 11:18 |  #29

SkedAddled wrote in post #6445126 (external link)
I'll second this; my Manfrotto ballhead still shows some sort of grey-ish lubricant on it. I don't imagine that totally clean & dry was their intent, or it wouldn't have been lubed in the first place.

My 488RC2 came with lubricant too.


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tomd
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Oct 06, 2008 11:29 |  #30

I usually have a professional do mine. ;)


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How do I lubricate my balls?
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