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Thread started 18 Oct 2008 (Saturday) 11:35
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50mm F/1.8 & +4 closeup filter question

 
cedm
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Oct 18, 2008 11:35 |  #1

Hi guys,

Anyone tried to add a +4 closeup filter on a nifty fifty? What to expect from this setup, macro-wise? Would it allow me to get a better magnification than my EFS 55-250 (which is about x0.31)? I probably don't need x1 magnification, but half that would be nice.

That'd be to shoot small objects in my house (coins, watch, etc.) and flowers too. Not interested in insect photography.

Any sample picture would be great. I've found one so far (http://i18.photobucket​.com …DiT77/forums/DS​C_1579.jpg (external link)) and it looks really good.

I'm on tight budget, so a dedicated macro lens is a no go. I find extension tubes pricey as well.

I'm aware that a closeup filter will impact on IQ, but that may not be noticeable enough to be an issue. Any hand on experience with such filters would then be very welcome.

Thanks!




  
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wimg
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Oct 18, 2008 15:06 |  #2

A +4 closeup lens is not a filter in the true sense :), it is really a screw-on lens. A very good one is the the Canon 250D, which is a two-element, achromatic version of such a lens.

A close-up lens will add some additional magnification to the magnification the lens it is mounted to already offers. The additional magnification is equivalent to FL_lens/FL_closeup_len​s.

Since a 4 diopter closeup lens has an FL of 250 mm (1000 mm / 4), this means that at 50 mm you get an additional 0.2X magnification, and at 250 mm and additional 1X magnification. This, BTW, is the minimum magnification you will get with such a lens mounted to your lens, and hence you won't be able to focus to infinity anymore until you take it off again. The maximum magnification you will now get you can calculate by adding this magnification to the maximum magnification the lens alreay offers.

So, the new maximum magnification at 250 mm will be 0.31X + 1.0X = 1.31 X. But then, the minimum magnification will be 1.0X. IOW, the reach (and therefore the related focusing distance) will be from 1.0X to 1.31X magnification. You can calculate the focusing distances for this too, but I currently don't have the lens formula at hand; I don't use it that often. At 55 mm it will be at least 55/250=0.22X, the maximum whatever it has for magnification at 55 mm, plus an additional 0.22X.

IOW, what you really want to do is change magnification by zooming. :D

BTW 4 diopters is a bit much for use with 250 mm of FL; you may introduce quite a few aberrations. Personally, I would go no higher than 3 diopters or thereabouts with a 250 mm FL.

HTH, kind regards, Wim


EOS R & EOS 5 (analog) with a gaggle of primes & 3 zooms, OM-D E-M1 Mk II & Pen-F with 10 primes, 6 zooms, 3 Metabones adapters/speedboosters​, and an accessory plague

  
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cedm
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Oct 19, 2008 02:17 as a reply to  @ wimg's post |  #3

Thanks for the explanation Wimg, that's very useful.

If I understand correctly, a +4 closeup lens on my nifty fifty would not make much sense since my 55-250 can already reach that level of magnification.

Nifty + closeup lens: x0.15 + x0.2 = x0.35
Stock 55-250 at 250mm: x0.31
55-250 at 250mm + closeup lens: x0.31 + x1 = 1.31

Does the closeup lenses reduce minimum working distance the same way as extension tubes do? My main issue with the nifty fifty is that the closest focus distance is at 0.45m. If I could get it down to 0.15-0.20m that would be awesome. Looking through the viewfinder at that distance gives me a nice magnification, but then it's obviously all blur hehe.

Any math formula to calculate the new minimum focus distance?

Thanks!




  
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wimg
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Oct 19, 2008 10:29 |  #4

cedm wrote in post #6521226 (external link)
Thanks for the explanation Wimg, that's very useful.

If I understand correctly, a +4 closeup lens on my nifty fifty would not make much sense since my 55-250 can already reach that level of magnification.

Nifty + closeup lens: x0.15 + x0.2 = x0.35
Stock 55-250 at 250mm: x0.31
55-250 at 250mm + closeup lens: x0.31 + x1 = 1.31

You do understand correctly :).

Does the closeup lenses reduce minimum working distance the same way as extension tubes do?

No, not entirely. essentially you change the total FL of the system, i.e., the FL of the lens used and the FL of the closeup lens together form a new lens system with a different focal length, and hence different WD dynamics.

My main issue with the nifty fifty is that the closest focus distance is at 0.45m. If I could get it down to 0.15-0.20m that would be awesome. Looking through the viewfinder at that distance gives me a nice magnification, but then it's obviously all blur hehe.

Any math formula to calculate the new minimum focus distance?

Yes, there is, but I need to look it up. No chance or time yet. I could derive it, but that takes a bit more time, my optical formula knowledge is a bit rusty :).

Thanks!

In the mean time, here is a table that will help:
http://www.bobatkins.c​om …graphy/eosfaq/c​loseup.htm (external link)

A few more links:
http://www.naturephoto​graphers.net/articles1​202/th1202-1.html (external link)
Just scroll down a bit for some info on the Canon 500D closeup lens.

http://www.camerahobby​.com/Access-Canon500D.htm (external link)
Interesting read on the 500D.

Later more (I hope).

Kind regards, Wim


EOS R & EOS 5 (analog) with a gaggle of primes & 3 zooms, OM-D E-M1 Mk II & Pen-F with 10 primes, 6 zooms, 3 Metabones adapters/speedboosters​, and an accessory plague

  
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wimg
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Oct 19, 2008 14:39 |  #5

Ah, I remembered again.

There are two ways to go about calculating the FL of the total system, i.e., closeup lens and lens it is mounted to.

You can either work with diopters, or with actual focal lengths:

FL_system = 1000/(closeup_lens_dio​pters + main_lens_diopters)

and your main lens diopters you can calculate by using:

main_lens_diopters = (1000 / FL_main_lens)



The second method, working with actual focal lengths, is to convert the diopter value of the closeup lens to an FL, and then use the following lens formula:

1/FL_System = 1/FL_main_lens + 1/FL_closeup_lens



And the FL of the closeup lens can be calculated by using the diopter conversion formula:

FL_closeup_lens = 1000/closeup_lens_diop​ters, in mm of course.

Once you have the system's FL, you can now go about calculating the minimum and maximum focusing distances, and you need the magnification factors for this as well.

magnification = image_of_object_size / object_size = image_distance_to_rear​_nodal_plane / object_distance_to_fro​nt_nodal plane



The latter two combined give a good indication of the total distance from sensor plane to object, provided the nodal planes of the lens aren't too far apart.

To calculate these distances, you have to do a few substitutions in the lens formula:

1/FL_system = 1/image_distance + 1/object_distance
Note: I left the nodal plane bits out for brevity :)

If you substitute the magnification factor in this formula, and work things out, you'll get:

image_distance = FL_system * (magnification +1)
and
object_distance = magnification * image_distance

I think it is possible to do this even faster, but i leave it to you to work this out :D.

Anyway, if you add these up, you'll know what the focusing distance will be.

focusing_distance = object_distance + image_distance

You just need to subtract the total system's lenght to find the WD (Working Distance).
And this you can do by adding the lens' length, with closeup-lens fitted, minus the mount thickness (essentially the bayonet fitting on the lens), plus the flange to sensor distance (Canon EOS: 44.0 mm ), plus image_distance, and subtract all this from the focusing distance. What remains is the distance from front lens to object, or the WD.

In formula:

WD = focusing_distance - (lens_length_with_clos​eup_lens - mount_thickness + 44.0 + image_distance).

Do note that I didn't take the distance between the rear and front nodal plane of the lens into account. This requires experimentation, as I have never seen a list anywhere mentioning those. I reckon it is probably very close anyway.

Kind regards, Wim

P.S.: Another nice article on closeup lenses: http://www.alanwood.ne​t …aphy/close-up-lenses.html (external link)


EOS R & EOS 5 (analog) with a gaggle of primes & 3 zooms, OM-D E-M1 Mk II & Pen-F with 10 primes, 6 zooms, 3 Metabones adapters/speedboosters​, and an accessory plague

  
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cedm
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Oct 19, 2008 20:26 as a reply to  @ wimg's post |  #6

thank you very much for all these explanations and links. Things start to make sense now (though not the math part yet.. got to work on that one more ;).

Sounds like a +2 diopter lens attached to my 55-250 would do a good job. Canon 500d is a bit expensive, but I saw some Hoya +1, +2 & +4 closeup sets that may be interesting. Will look for review of these now.

thanks again!




  
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wimg
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Oct 20, 2008 15:12 |  #7

cedm wrote in post #6525361 (external link)
thank you very much for all these explanations and links. Things start to make sense now (though not the math part yet.. got to work on that one more ;).

:D

Replace each of the long words in the equations with a sigle letter, and it may make it easier to understand :D.

Sounds like a +2 diopter lens attached to my 55-250 would do a good job. Canon 500d is a bit expensive, but I saw some Hoya +1, +2 & +4 closeup sets that may be interesting. Will look for review of these now.

thanks again!

Glad I could be of help!

Anyway, the Hoya closeup lenses are fine, as are the B+W ones. I've used the latter myself, in the olden days, with film, and before I got a dslr, with the G5.

Worked very well, just that the Canon doublets (250D and 500D) are of better quality.

Kind regards, Wim


EOS R & EOS 5 (analog) with a gaggle of primes & 3 zooms, OM-D E-M1 Mk II & Pen-F with 10 primes, 6 zooms, 3 Metabones adapters/speedboosters​, and an accessory plague

  
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cedm
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Oct 22, 2008 11:11 as a reply to  @ wimg's post |  #8

I'm back with some samples... This may be useful for other people too.

I borrowed a +3 close up lens (cheap Quantaray, 1 element) from a friend and put it on my nifty fifty. Here's the results:

1. Naked lens, 50mm, F/1.8, closest focusing distance (~45cm):


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2. Now with a +3 diopter lens attached, still F/1.8, closest focusing distance dropped to about 25cm:


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Wide open, the 100% crop shows some chromatic aberrations and is less sharp, but once scaled down, the image quality is acceptable.

With the +3 diopter lens, the nifty fifty magnification goes from x0.15 to x0.30 (0.15 + 0.15 from the closeup lens).

Another sample. This figurine is ~4.5cm tall. Shot at F5.6 from ~25cm distance. Stopped down, the picture showed no visible chromatic aberration:

IMAGE: http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3292/2964743984_a581a92656.jpg

I couldn't try it on my 55-250mm because the filter size didn't match, but it should give a ~1:1 magnification at 250mm. Minimum focus distance is also shortened from 110cm to about 30cm (rough approximation).

I didn't do any extensive test, but the results are encouraging nonetheless. Even with a cheap close up lens, the IQ is acceptable once the lens is stopped down. Looking forward to try another close up lens on the 55-250mm lens.



  
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50mm F/1.8 & +4 closeup filter question
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