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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 23 Nov 2008 (Sunday) 18:11
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aarbiser
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Nov 23, 2008 18:11 |  #1

Hi all.

i have to go a photography an event in a glass pyramid on the 75th floor of a building in hong kong at night. Need some advice. SHould i use a diffuser to stop reflection but then will the flash be powerful enough (430 EXII).

Also what would be the best way to take the pictures as i an not sure about rebounding of the glass ceiling. Should i shoot direct and if so what would be the best settings. I will be able to get relativley close with my 2.8 sigma and for the further away shots i have a Canon 135f2. WHat would be the best lens choice.

Not sure about specific lighting for the event so cant work with that.

Thanks for all your help in advance.


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JMHPhotography
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Nov 23, 2008 18:29 |  #2

Not sure this will work, but you could use a small flashlight to determine the angle of reflectance. Just use the light by shining it into all sorts of directions from your shot location and when you can't see the light reflections in your shot... use that as your bounce angle. You should still get plenty of light if I've got a correct mental image of your location. The reflected direct light beams will just be shining all around your position.


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aarbiser
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Nov 24, 2008 03:31 |  #3

Thanks for that. Great idea. What about lens. Should i stay close with the sigma or should i use a longer lens???


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Jim ­ M
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Nov 24, 2008 07:49 |  #4

A diffuser will not do anything to help reflections. In fact, if it is a large diffuser, it may even make it worse if you are not careful. If the ceiling is actually transparent glass, even if it is tinted, you will not be able to bounce from it since most of the light will go through it. If it does reflect, it will be just like the harsh light that left the flash except at a different angle since the glass would act like a mirror.

I would shoot with direct flash.

The longer the lens, the narrower the angle of view and the easier it is to control reflections. With a wide angle lens you may be looking at 20 feet of glass in the background. With a telephoto, you may be looking at 5 feet of glass in the background. The telephoto reduces the chances of reflection. Of course, you may not be able to back up far enough to use it effectively or your flash may not be powerful enough to use it, but you will be able to control reflections better.

The flashlight trick is a good one. It helps you see where your flash reflection would be. However, it may not be convenient all the time. It may be easier just to make sure you are at an angle to the glass. The greater the angle, the less likely you are to have a reflection of your flash. The closer you are to straight on to the glass, the greater your likelihood of getting your flash's reflection.

If the building is actually a pyramid with the glass walls at an angle to the floor, then you may not have any problems at all. You may get some light patterns due to light from the flash reflecting on to the floor or your subjects, but if you play around with the direction, you may be able to control that.




  
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aarbiser
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Nov 24, 2008 07:56 |  #5

thanks for all the help so far. You have been a great help. One more question please. What setting to have my camera and flash. I usually shoot in Aperture Priority without flash and was wondering if to use the same with flash or to use manual. If manuel are there some base settings I can start with for different situations to make it easier. Shoul I keep my flash on auto.

Thanks


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Bearmann
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Nov 24, 2008 08:13 |  #6

I would not discount bouncing off of the glass. Even though it is transparent, you will get some reflected light off of it. You may be able to soften the reflected light if you can bounce off more than one wall at the same time. It worth experimenting once you get there. Be on the lookout for other walls or objects in the room that you can bounce off of.


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S.Horton
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Nov 24, 2008 08:19 |  #7

I'd recommend setting up manual, all the way, direct flash, enough power to fill some shadows only.

See:
http://strobist.blogsp​ot.com …-balancing-flash-and.html (external link)


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Titus213
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Nov 24, 2008 08:27 |  #8

I like Sam's approach except for the manual mode on the flash. I would try ETTL and adjust the FEC to get the effect you want.


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aarbiser
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Nov 24, 2008 17:00 |  #9

On manual what is a good aperture and shutter speed combo to use for ettl flash. 1 and 2 people shouts I was thing f2 or 2.8 and group shots at f 5.6. What would be good shutter speeds for this with direct flash.


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Titus213
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Nov 24, 2008 17:25 |  #10

Your f-stop will be dependent on your required DOF. Shutter speed will be determined by how much ambient light you want mixed with your flash. Both susceptible to ISO.

I really like wide apertures but they can be a real pain in event shooting because of shallow DOF.

I would think a 135/2.0 lens would be a bit long for indoors on a crop body.


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aarbiser
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Nov 24, 2008 17:37 |  #11

I have the sigma 2.8. Ex and a nifty fifty. Thinking about getting 85 1.8. But won't have it for this event. I mainly shoot outdoors but doing this event for a favour. I do gave a 70-200 but think it will be too slow and too big. And advice on flash lens combo.


Canon 1D III -5d3- Canon 35L - Sigma 50mm 1.4 - Canon 85 1.8 - Canon 135 f2L - Canon 70-200 f2.8ii IS

  
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aarbiser
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Nov 25, 2008 00:37 |  #12

Any other suggestions


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Titus213
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Nov 25, 2008 00:44 |  #13

Get ther early and do some testing.:lol:


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