-=1DS Mark II Admirers, congregate!

raven4ns wrote in post #9490279
Would someone please suggest a specific SDHC card for the 1Ds mk2? I will be using a San Disk 4gb or 8gb CF type 1 or type 2 but am not sure about the SDHC card. I lack the digital knowledge to understand the difference between a SD or SDHC and I want to buy the right card, again in the 4gb or 8gb size.
Is there someplace you buy these memory cards that offer them at good prices? I'm not sure what price range is reasonable for the 4gb and 8gb cards. Thank you.

Tim

You don't really need an SD card unless you want to write to both at once for security. I'm finding out that doing that isn't such a cakewalk with the Mark IIs. With the Mark IIn or Mark IIIs, you can write JPGs to the SD as backup and RAWs to the CFs but you can't do that with the Mark II. You can only write RAW to both or JPG to both... and what I'm seeing now from other people is that it doesn't matter how fast of an SD card you use, if you write to both cards, everything to do with the Mark II's buffer becomes painfully slow compared to just using one card.

If you still do want a SD card, get a Class 10 SDHC. That means 10 mb/s and is just a bit faster than the camera can use.

Kyles wrote in post #9490514
VERY NICE, which Sigma 50mm did you use? do you prefer it to Canon's 50mm?

Thanks! The f/1.4 Sigma 50mm. It is very very very nice especially considering the price. I've never owned a Canon 50 so I can't compare. I have owned Takumars and Nikkors and the Sigma crushes them all both in wide open sharpness and stopped down sharpness. My copy has not had any AF issues and I like it quite a bit more than the Canon 85/1.8 it replaced. My Sigma gives me back more keepers than I expect it to... I think "there is no way at nearly wide open that it caught that frame sharp" but when I get back and download the files, more of those are tack than I'd ever expect.

If you didn't see my other pano a few weeks back, check it here... same location, same lens, but IMO a better shot:

http://www.flickr.com …s/alexfirmani/4​253768063/

(looks like my Flickr Pro expired so you can't get to the huge versions, though)

TheHoff wrote in post #9494598
You don't really need an SD card unless you want to write to both at once for security. I'm finding out that doing that isn't such a cakewalk with the Mark IIs. With the Mark IIn or Mark IIIs, you can write JPGs to the SD as backup and RAWs to the CFs but you can't do that with the Mark II. You can only write RAW to both or JPG to both... and what I'm seeing now from other people is that it doesn't matter how fast of an SD card you use, if you write to both cards, everything to do with the Mark II's buffer becomes painfully slow compared to just using one card.

If you still do want a SD card, get a Class 10 SDHC. That means 10 mb/s and is just a bit faster than the camera can use.

class 10 is not yet a Standard - so it wont write @ 10Mbps unless the card writer is Specifically designed for class 10. Your best bet, and what I did, was meet somewhere in the middle, and get a 15mbps (2X faster than the rob gailbrait reports the fastest SD card the MII writes to at the time) SanDisk Ultra II SD card and hope for the best. I used a 16gb Class 6 Adata and it was 90 seconds to clear the buffer - with a 4gb class "4" ultra II card it was about 26 seconds. Thats a pretty clear difference.

Thank you for your suggestions. I want to use both a CF card as well as a SDHC card not for back up but to use like a spare tire. If 1 card gets full then I can keep on shooting just by switching to the other card without having to replace cards. It isn't likely that will happen often but it's there if I need it like a spare tire.

Tim

TheHoff wrote in post #9494598
You don't really need an SD card unless you want to write to both at once for security. I'm finding out that doing that isn't such a cakewalk with the Mark IIs. With the Mark IIn or Mark IIIs, you can write JPGs to the SD as backup and RAWs to the CFs but you can't do that with the Mark II. You can only write RAW to both or JPG to both... and what I'm seeing now from other people is that it doesn't matter how fast of an SD card you use, if you write to both cards, everything to do with the Mark II's buffer becomes painfully slow compared to just using one card.

If you still do want a SD card, get a Class 10 SDHC. That means 10 mb/s and is just a bit faster than the camera can use.

basically the only use in the before "N" era is to use them as seperate cards ie more space, which can be handy on the ds if you dont have to many CFs or just have some SDs lying around. Or if you are a spraying sports shooter

PrimePhotographer wrote in post #9491292
There is another utility that reads the camera for shutter count not the files, can someone remind me the name?

Did you mean a different one to 1DCount?

If not you can get 1DCount here http://www.foxbat.me.u​k/myDownloads.php

bigrob wrote in post #9495672
Did you mean a different one to 1DCount?

If not you can get 1DCount here http://www.foxbat.me.u​k/myDownloads.php

Actually I was looking for EOSInfo.
However, it did not read all the info from my 1D MK II N that I wanted.

EOSInfo was written by David Polivka: david@astrojargon.net. This utility is freeware, and is provided at no cost at http://astrojargon.net.

EOSInfo is a simple utility that presents useful information about your Canon EOS DSLR. To use EOSInfo, your EOS DSLR camera must be connected via USB cable and powered on. The data presented depends on the model of your camera - not all items are available for all EOS models.

EOSInfo evolved from the wildly popular 40DShutterCount utility - the name change reflects the wider applicability and expanded information presented. Future enhancements planned for EOSInfo include: one-button syncing of date/time with the PC, the ability to edit the owner name, copyright, and artist fields (including special characters), and the ability to check against an online server to verify that the firmware is up-to-date.

Incase anyone wants to see a quick video walkthrough before buying check out:
http://www.youtube.com​/watch?v=2TjmFYHS-wk

I know i was looking for one on the mark II but couldnt find one. Ill do a more in depth(and talkative) one later for future buyers

TheHoff wrote in post #9494619
Thanks! The f/1.4 Sigma 50mm. It is very very very nice especially considering the price. I've never owned a Canon 50 so I can't compare. I have owned Takumars and Nikkors and the Sigma crushes them all both in wide open sharpness and stopped down sharpness. My copy has not had any AF issues and I like it quite a bit more than the Canon 85/1.8 it replaced. My Sigma gives me back more keepers than I expect it to... I think "there is no way at nearly wide open that it caught that frame sharp" but when I get back and download the files, more of those are tack than I'd ever expect.

If you didn't see my other pano a few weeks back, check it here... same location, same lens, but IMO a better shot:

http://www.flickr.com …s/alexfirmani/4​253768063/

(looks like my Flickr Pro expired so you can't get to the huge versions, though)

thanks for the Sigma 50mm info, much appreciated.

WOW! the photo is awesome! is that with the current Sigma 50mm model? great photo! very sharp.

as always your comments are very helpful and your photos are very beautiful.

because of this thread i am very much considering a 1DsMKII. i hope keh is as good as everyone says. i might pull the trigger. if i do, i blame this thread,

One from recent.

Hello,
I am trying to understand the autofocusing aspects of the Ds2 relative to the EOS3. For many years I used a pair of EOS3's to shoot with and before that an A2E. I loved the ECF (eye-controlled focus) which worked fine for me even though I wore glasses. Once I found a shot I wanted to make, I composed it in the viewfinder, looked left or right to select the focus point in the viewfinder I wanted and took the shot. To accomplish the same result with the Ds2 am I correct in stating that I need to select a point in the scene to be in focus, hold the shutter button half way down then recompose to get the shot I wanted? Is there any way to accomplish this without the need of moving the camera around to recompose etc?
I am so used to using the ECF that it has spoiled me. Most photographers shoot a scene off center to avoid a static looking image and doing this with an A2E/EOS3 was simple. If there is a better way of accomplishing the same task with the Ds2 other than recomposing, would someone please tell me how they go about it. I am trying to understand a different focusing system other than the one I am used to and certainly could use some help. Thank you.

Tim

you could always select the focusing point manually with the wheel. not as fast but fast. there are many of us that liked the ECF - my eos 5 have it.....

nice shoot sonny!!

im saving the new "virginity" of the ds until my zf 35mm comes in....

The dials on top and back rotate to select the AF points, you can hit the AF point selector with your right thumb. No need to look away from the viewfinder to do all this once you know where the buttons are.

I highly recomend using these guides:

Sports Illustrated Photo
Suggested settings for the Canon EOS 1D Mark II

http://www.siphoto.com​/?canon1DM2.inc

and also this guide:

http://sydnet.net/omar​/equipment.htm
Personal custom functions settings for EOS 1D Mark II:

C.Fn-01-1: Finder display on during exposure

C.Fn-02-1: Shutter release without card not possible

C.Fn-04-2: Autofocus with the shutter button. Press * and get autofocus lock in alservo mode.

C.Fn-05-0:

C.Fn-06-0: Adjust exposure in 1/3-stop set

C.Fn-07-0:

C.Fn-08-1: Displays the selected ISO on the top panel and in the viewfinder and remaining shots on the back panel.

C.Fn-09-0

C.Fn-10-3: Extra bright AF point illumination

C.Fn-11-2: Quick control dial for choosing focus point.
To get back to the central focus point with CFn-13-3 just press the assist button.

C.Fn-13-3: 9 focus point, instead of 45 focus points. Just half press shutter button and then press Point selection button and get 45 AF points (AFPS), or Press +/- button and then turn the main dial to get 45 focus points. Press the assist button and get 9 points again or Press +/- button and then turn the main dial to get 9 focus points.

C.Fn-16-1: Safety shift of AV and TV priority.

C.Fn-17-1: Expands the selected AF point with 7 AF points for better AF coverage. With this function it will be easier to track flying birds. For stationary objects I use C.F.n-17-0, no expansion of selected AF point.

C.Fn-18-1: Uses assist button to get centred (registred) AF point.

C.Fn-19-0:

C.Fn-20-0: Alservo tracking sensitivity, default setting??

C.Fn-21-0: Focus priority in alservo enabled