Proper studio lighting without a flash meter

So, my Genesis 200 kit will be arriving soon, but I can't afford a flash meter at this time. My setup will be the 2 monolights, 430ex flash, and a reflector. I am thinking that I will use the reflector for fill, 1 of the mono's for main, and then the other 2 lights for background and hair. Without a flash meter, what is the best way to figure out how to set these flashes?

Stefan

Unfortunately, lots of trial and error! Lots of chimping, evaluating, changing settings and then back to the chimping and evaluating and resetting.

also, one at a time.
Are you shooting individuals? if so:
I would set up the Background light first -shoot and evaluate, turn it off and set the hair light, -shoot and evaluate, turn it off, then the main -shoot and evaluate, turn it off and finally add the reflector -shoot and evaluate. Because light is accumulative your final exposure may have to change but this way you can work on the ratio's.

Thank God for digital and instant gratification. Film trial and error sucked.

got expensive too... Polaroids at a buck a pop.. yuck

Until you can get your mitts on a meter, take measurements (distance from subject) and make written notes regarding resultant aperture at given power settings...

ya know, there's lots of decent used Minolta IIIFs and IVs on ebay right now for around a 100 bucks. I've even seen some Gossen and Sekonic units going for 150.

FlyingPhotog wrote in post #6806356
Until you can get your mitts on a meter, take measurements (distance from subject) and make written notes regarding resultant aperture at given power settings...

How is it going to work taking into account different light modifiers ? And how to take measurement not having the tool to take measurements ?

Papa Carlo wrote in post #6806514
How is it going to work taking into account different light modifiers ? And how to take measurement not having the tool to take measurements ?

He's got a histogram that can show if a given f/stop is blowing out or not. He could also make some test shots, process them and make some notes on the results...

It doesn't all come together instantly. Sometimes there's a little work involved to learn to properly use the tools...

If you know the guide numbers of said strobes, that could cut down on your guesswork quite a bit.

Thanks for the suggestions. Zansho - I like your systematic approach. I will try that. Can you elaborate on how I should use the guide numbers?

Thanks for the info on meters, I will look into it.

Stefan

Stefan - I would recommend using a flash meter when setting up for a studio session. A histogram is all well and good for the total exposure, but tells you nothing of the lighting ratios of two different light sources. Once you get a flash meter you can start thinking in terms of lighting ratios. You dont have to spend a fortune, I would recommend a Sekonic 308, which you should pick up s/h for about 50 pounds.... Good luck.

I just worked through this myself, having only recently bought my first lighting kit (Genesis 200 2-lights). Before having a meter, I shot with the camera tethered to a laptop and fired it using EOS Utility. Instant and much better feedback than the LCD.

I did break down on the light meter, though. No need to spend $100+, though. I'm only a hobbyist and wanted to keep it cheap. For less than $20, I picked up a vintage Bowens flash meter. It's perfect for what I need. There's bunches of them on eBay.

Stefan A wrote in post #6807014
Thanks for the suggestions. Zansho - I like your systematic approach. I will try that. Can you elaborate on how I should use the guide numbers?

Thanks for the info on meters, I will look into it.

Stefan

Stefan,
Not complicated at all...let us assume an example of a GN80 unit and a GN110 unit. If you set the GN110 unit 5 feet from the subject, that is f/22 (100/5 = 22) ; if you put the GN80 unit at 5' also, it is f/16 (80/5=16) If you wanted the GN80 unit to be -2EV rather than -1EV dimmer than the GN110 unit, you could move it to 8' (simply treat distances like f/stops!) So you can set a 3:1 ratio simply vs. a 5:1 ratio, simply because you know the relative output (from the GN rating), and you also know the effect of changing distance of each light!

The challenge, with any light -- as soon as you add any light modifier -- is knowing what Guide Number to use!

Wilt wrote in post #6807557
Stefan,
Not complicated at all...let us assume an example of a GN80 unit and a GN100 unit. If you set the GN110 unit 5 feet from the subject, that is f/22 (100/5 = 22) ; if you put the GN80 unit at 5' also, it is f/16 (80/5=16) If you wanted the GN80 unit to be -2EV rather than -1EV dimmer than the GN110 unit, you could move it to 8' (simply treat distances like f/stops!) So you can set a 3:1 ratio simply vs. a 5:1 ratio, simply because you know the relative output (from the GN rating), and you also know the effect of changing distance of each light!

The challenge, with any light -- as soon as you add any light modifier -- is knowing what Guide Number to use!

Wilt beat me to it. most modifiers will reduce light by a certain amount - and it's hard to give a real amount because not all modifiers are created equal. I can't just say a softbox will take off 1 stop off of your exposure, because not all softboxes are made the same - some have baffles, some have silver linings, some have poor diffusion material - it's really a test. The guide number will get you in the ballpark, maybe as close as 2nd base, but you'll have to tweak from there.

Although, I'll tell you this. The Sekonic Light meter was probably the best 200 bucks I've EVER spent. Seriously, I'll never leave home without my light meter if I'm going out on a job.