just bought a telescope...bewildered

kaitanium wrote in post #6825226
ADAPTERS_______________

ok, some words flew by me here. 1.25 vs 2? whats the difference?

Sorry, I wasn't clear. Generally speaking, eyepieces for telescopes come in two sizes...1.25 inches or 2 inches in diameter. The larger diameter gives effectively a wider field image, but where eyepieces are concerned I think I prefer 1.25" ones. That aside, camera adapters can come in the same sizes too. However a 1.25" diameter one can cause some vignetting on your image. This is a darkening in the corners, because the round tube of the adapter doesn't allow very much light to reach the corners of your camera sensor. You'll notice this in a lot of the more amateur astrophotos, especially in thumbnails. Using a 2" adapter can reduce vignetting, because its larger diameter allows more light to reach the corners of the camera sensor. If your telescope can take a 2" adapter then it's worth using one. Personally I've got both, because I have some 1.25" filters, and one of my telescopes only takes 1.25" eyepieces and adapters.

Hope that clears that up.

kaitanium wrote in post #6838556
2. celestron t ring for canon eos (me have 5D)

Gosh, sorry I just read this, and I hope it's not too late - do NOT under any circumstances buy the Celestron t-ring. The cutout where the lens bayonet "pin" goes is machined *very* poorly, and has a tendency to let the camera continue rotating. I almost dumped my (then) brand new 40D on the ground with one of those.

When I searched the AP forums at CloudyNights, I found I wasn't the only one to have that experience. I always recommend the one carried by ScopeStuff - I'm sure there are other vendors who carry the good ones, and I know there are other vendors who carry the crappy ones, but SS is the only one I know about for sure.

A general word of warning - always loop your camera's neckstrap around something (finder scope) or otherwise tether the camera in case a t-ring or focuser or something gives way.

HTH,
David

kaitanium wrote in post #6841898
very awesome info! even with this regular fork mount scope it can do what a GEM does too right? just need that wedge. so with a wedge attached, will it tip the tripod?

things are becoming a bit clearer gearwise, now its onto actually playing with the scope.

Yes, with a wedge you'll be able to track in sidereal just like a GEM. The wedges are designed for balance on a tripod or pier so tipping isn't an issue. As long as you're able to lift the weight of the fork mount/tube assembly onto the wedge safely and without strain then no problem. It's more of a lift to get the unit up on the wedge than it is the tripod alone. If you have doubts about it have someone give you a hand with it.

Dave, great tips. Never underestimate the law of Murphy.

ooo more info...good thing the christmas season has milked me of all my cash...otherwise i would have made some bad purchases!

Adrena1in wrote in post #6842227
Sorry, I wasn't clear. Generally speaking, eyepieces for telescopes come in two sizes...1.25 inches or 2 inches in diameter. The larger diameter gives effectively a wider field image, but where eyepieces are concerned I think I prefer 1.25" ones. That aside, camera adapters can come in the same sizes too. However a 1.25" diameter one can cause some vignetting on your image. This is a darkening in the corners, because the round tube of the adapter doesn't allow very much light to reach the corners of your camera sensor. You'll notice this in a lot of the more amateur astrophotos, especially in thumbnails. Using a 2" adapter can reduce vignetting, because its larger diameter allows more light to reach the corners of the camera sensor. If your telescope can take a 2" adapter then it's worth using one. Personally I've got both, because I have some 1.25" filters, and one of my telescopes only takes 1.25" eyepieces and adapters.

Hope that clears that up.

excellent info. thanks! looks like that orion one that steve recommended will give me the best results then.

FarmerDave8N wrote in post #6842905
Gosh, sorry I just read this, and I hope it's not too late - do NOT under any circumstances buy the Celestron t-ring. The cutout where the lens bayonet "pin" goes is machined *very* poorly, and has a tendency to let the camera continue rotating. I almost dumped my (then) brand new 40D on the ground with one of those.

When I searched the AP forums at CloudyNights, I found I wasn't the only one to have that experience. I always recommend the one carried by ScopeStuff - I'm sure there are other vendors who carry the good ones, and I know there are other vendors who carry the crappy ones, but SS is the only one I know about for sure.

A general word of warning - always loop your camera's neckstrap around something (finder scope) or otherwise tether the camera in case a t-ring or focuser or something gives way.

HTH,
David

so is the one SS makes a metal one? i cant tell from the pics. its not THAT much more expensive than the plastic celestron one which is good

Nighthound wrote in post #6842977
Yes, with a wedge you'll be able to track in sidereal just like a GEM. The wedges are designed for balance on a tripod or pier so tipping isn't an issue. As long as you're able to lift the weight of the fork mount/tube assembly onto the wedge safely and without strain then no problem. It's more of a lift to get the unit up on the wedge than it is the tripod alone. If you have doubts about it have someone give you a hand with it.

Dave, great tips. Never underestimate the law of Murphy.

sweet. good to know that my purchase wasnt a total waste and that it can last

to OP:

Firstly, welcome to the fold You have chosen wisely daniel'son. Astronomy is a wonderful hobby, its like pizza; even when it's bad...it's still good. (and only tends to get better EVERY-TIME you come to the eyepiece)

So, you may notice that this is my first post on this board and I want to say that I wanted to join and post here just for you Kaitanium because I have one small suggestion for you.

Try widefield...

Widefield astrophogography is extremely rewarding at your experience level and will only serve to build upon the many great ideas the posters have given already. It will teach you about the sky; it will teach you about exposing the night sky; it will even allow you to try your hand out at post processing your astrophotos which will become an invaluable skill once you move into Afocal AP.

So what is widefield Astrophotography? Ill let you do your own soul searching to see if you would enjoy the objects and scenes that can be captured with this 'style', but I am going to assume you will enjoy it. With that assumption here are some things that you are already in the PLUS column on.

- It uses shorter focal length lenses that you might even already own.

- You can use your existing telescope configuration (Fork Mount) which btw, is a fantastic telescope.

- You DO NOT have to buy a 700$ wedge.

- No $500-$1000 guidescope package needed.

So its just a thought. If you want more info Google 'piggyback astrophotography' or 'widefield astrophotography' and see what you think

Enjoy and again, welcome to the addiction...

_clear_skies

babel_fish wrote in post #6849008
Try widefield...

Welcome to the forum babel_fish. Great advice, I couldn't agree more. I've really come to appreciate widefield imaging over the years.

Lynn-Kai, you can pick up the hardware needed to piggy back your DSLR and short focal length lenses on top of your SCT for a reasonable price. With your CPC tracking you'll be able to get some nice long exposures of some wide spans of sky.

Here's an example, this is a Losmandy rail on my previous SCT. There's a piece of hardware that mounts to the bottom of the camera and slides up and down the rail so you can position the camera where you want it and then lock it down.

wow babel_fish i am honored! thanks for the warm welcomes into the field too!

dahhh i think i should start off with a rail indeed. i was actually thinking about doing that first since im starting to think taking pinpointed objects would be harder than learning to setup my scope and get widefield stuff first.

how much is that Losmandy rail? i guess when my telescope comes tomorrow, then ill be able to figure out how its actually mounted, the only telescope ive played with is a meade ext90 which didnt have a rail scope thingy.

alrite this is fun! i just setup my scope and learned how to align it.

now im reading up on eyepieces. my used scope came with:
-Celestron E-lux 40mm (i think this is the stock one)
-meade 2x barlow
-meade 17.5mm MA17
-orion 12.5mm

i was thinking of just adding one more 6mm or something for super high magnification (add barlow =3mm)
what do you guys think?

i guess i dont care that much about eyepieces cuz what i really wanna do is the photography part. but im sure my parents will appreciate the eyepieces.
_______________

any recommendations on how to transport this thing? i dont think i want an expensive hard case. these seem to be good
http://www.astronomics​.com …HJTKM4/product_​id/CASECP8

i guess i could keep it in its shipping box but that wont fit the trunk of my car!

kaitanium wrote in post #6862224
i guess i dont care that much about eyepieces cuz what i really wanna do is the photography part. but im sure my parents will appreciate the eyepieces.
_______________

any recommendations on how to transport this thing? i dont think i want an expensive hard case. these seem to be good
http://www.astronomics​.com …HJTKM4/product_​id/CASECP8

i guess i could keep it in its shipping box but that wont fit the trunk of my car!

Glad to hear you're enjoying the new scope and getting a hang of the alignment process.

My suggestion would be to pass on such a high mag eyepiece. Nights steady enough to enjoy that kind of magnification are VERY rare. Your barlow will give you plenty of visual boost with what you already have. Plus you sound very much like myself. I do enjoy looking at cool objects but I spend 99% of my time with a camera attached and not an eyepiece. The eyepiece I use most often is an illuminated reticle for drift alignment.

As far as transport, I usually try to get as much mileage as I can out of the box the scope comes in. Fortunately the scopes I've had came in very solid, foam lined boxes. I used my LX200 box for over two years going to dark sites and when I sold the scope the box was still in very good shape and I was able to use it to ship o the buyer. The soft case like the one you linked too always make me feel like they don't offer the best protection and stability while transporting but that might not be the case(I'm a bit overprotective of my photo gear). I let others here that have one give a user evaluation.


Oh and the Losmandy rail?, I didn't realize that these look to be discontinued or at least out of stock. They were pricey so maybe this is a better way to go. Click the accessories tab to see the railing that this piece rides on. $55 for base and $69 for rail.
http://www.optcorp.com …99&kw=camera%20​mount&st=2

There are cheaper items out there but I wouldn't suggest that too much weight be put on one of these. Too much would cause flexure and visible movement in long exposures. They don't look all that sturdy.
http://www.astronomics​.com …H39TRAC55/produ​ct_id/5904

Nighthound wrote in post #6863745
My suggestion would be to pass on such a high mag eyepiece. Nights steady enough to enjoy that kind of magnification are VERY rare.

+1

+1. I (and others) use the foam from the original box, and put it into a plastic storage container from Wally World or Tarzhay, to spare the original box.

so maybe this is a better way to go. Click the accessories tab to see the railing that this piece rides on. $55 for base and $69 for rail.
http://www.optcorp.com …99&kw=camera%20​mount&st=2

+1. Anthony's stuff is rock solid.


Keep up the good work, Steve.

David

those ADM accessories are pricey too! better start saving my lunch money. they look like they only fit meades?

wow with the support of you guys it seems that i am just gonna grow fast and jump into this head first! thankssssssss

we got alot of clear, crips, cold, night skies here (another drought winter maybe?) so im fortunate to have to option of going out everyday if i wanted to. i saw the moon yesterday up close and man that almost blinded me! so bright (alot different from the meade ext90 i tried out a long time ago) ! i dont suppose that is good for my eyes...

-i will forgo the eyepieces and use what i have
-i will look into a rail and start off with widefield photog
-i might take a look at those plastic containers, i was thinking about just using the bottom half foam cradle of the shipping container since that seems more portable than the entire box

dahhh ok. so my ADM stuff is coming soon and so how would i focus my camera to the stars using widefield photog? what are optimal settings? higher aperture? ISO 800? im using a canon 5d and perhaps my 16-35.

You can focus manually through the viewfinder or use autofocus on a bright star. If you use the autofocus just use a bright star like Sirius or Capella. After you get the lens to snap to focus turn the lens AF switch to "M" and then switch the camera dial to "M" and use the bulb setting for long exposures. Be careful not to touch the lens after getting it to snap to focus while you compose the shot. I'd start with ISO 800 and check the noise level. If it's a cold night 1600 would be ok but 800 would be my comfort level with the 5D.

ah nice. that seemed quite straightforward

The best t-ring setup that I use is the one from Astro Physics. Just get the EOS t-ring and then the AP16T nosepiece. It's beveled so that it won't fall out of the 2 inch focuser. Great stuff from great people.

The T-Ring itself is named from the maker...Tamron Ring. They wanted a system that was easily adaptable.