400mm f5.6 + 1.4tc Problem

Try to get a bit closer. Maybe filling up at least 30% of the frame???

Roy C wrote in post #6873293
I get the same results on both my 30D and 40D and with both manual and auto focusing. If I am fairly close to the bird the converter gives me good images but if I am at the kind of distance shown in the photo of my last post the image with tc is poor (when cropped a bit).
I have even got good shots with stacked 1.4 and 2x tc's when the bird is almost filling the frame, but that is not when I need a tc. Maybe I am just expecting too much.

It seems as though this thread wont really gain much more ground until you show us what you would compare as acceptable and unacceptable. I think we all agree that T-cons reduce overall IQ.

I shot a 300 2.8 with a 2X canon TC and never really liked the results at the "long" end. It was always very soft and generally a lot lower in contrast.

mikeassk wrote in post #6873592
I shot a 300 2.8 with a 2X canon TC and never really liked the results at the "long" end. It was always very soft and generally a lot lower in contrast.

That's interesting as I have considered a 300 2.8 with tc's as a way of getting more reach but have always been weary about using a 2x tc as the norm.

Roy C wrote in post #6873319
That's nice but I am looking at birds that are smaller in the frame to begin with, as per my example above. Am I expecting too much to be able to crop from that distance from a tc shot?

From your own shot Roy your just about at the limit of what i would expect with the 400f5.6 with PP work .
I do think if you put a 1.4tc on that shot it should be a little better than the bare lens cropped.
and as you say sometimes your even closer then the tc should give the shot you want .
So at these levels i Dont think you are asking too much .
As to why your Not getting the IQ out of it without knowing the shutter speed / apeture / iso you normally get on this shot its hard to say.
Rob.

Just a thought IF i get this sort of problem with any lens i do tests in the garden- tripod iso 100/200 fast shutter speed and self timer
In fact i do this on new lenses so i know for sure what to expect from the bare lens and with a tc added as this will show the BEST i can get.
then out in the field i know more what i should be able to get .
Rob.

My view is that when you're at longer range then you have to get all Ducks in a row to get a half decent keeper ratio. It's very much an organic thing with several contextual elements either being on your side or against you. A great tripod and head can help, but if the light is too bright and lots of haze you then have things against you in that instance as well. So I guess I am recommending that you look closely at the various factors that count when you get a shot you like and try to reproduce those factors in other situations. At the end of the day it is mainly about quality of light and creating a solid platform for the lens and camera ... small shakes magnify somewhat at 560mm. On my last Africa trip I used the 1D Mk II N with 400mm L and 1.4x 90% of the time, but I was 100% on a beanbag taking conscious care of shake and only shot during 'golden hours'. Light and shake where therefore well controlled.

I have the Feisol 3472 ( very close to what you want ) and it is excellent. Very stable even in the wind. I don't care for Manfrotto heads. I think you can do better with Markins, Kirk or Really Right Stuff as hey are more in keeping with the quality of your new Feisol

Have you tried stopping down? My experience with the 1.4x is that it causes a noticible loss of sharpness when shooting wide open (with the 70-200 and 200L). Stopping down one stop brings back most of the sharpness.

That's probably going to be painful since the 400 + TC is already at f8. You'll need excellent light or high ISO's to keep reasonable shutter speeds.

sleibrand wrote in post #6876214
Have you tried stopping down? My experience with the 1.4x is that it causes a noticible loss of sharpness when shooting wide open (with the 70-200 and 200L). Stopping down one stop brings back most of the sharpness.

That's probably going to be painful since the 400 + TC is already at f8. You'll need excellent light or high ISO's to keep reasonable shutter speeds.

Yes, I usually stop down to f8 (effectively f11 with taped tc). I always use the 400 with a pod when I have the tc attached.

Roy;
I don't think it has anything to do with the tripod/head. I agree with comments about 1.4TC and autofocus limitations at longer distances.
I have the same setup as you (same tripod/head) and 100-400 + kenko 1.4X.
If the bird is 25-30% of frame or better than shots are acceptable - any smaller and it's really hit or miss.
Good Luck and have fun!
hm

As an update to this thread - first day out with a new (solid as a rock) CF tripod today so I shot exclusively with the 1.4tc attached to my 400mm f5.6. Light was not brilliant and I was shooting f8( effectively f11 with taped tc) at ISO 800. Must say the results were better than anything I have had before with a tc. Thanks to everyone for their help.

Nice Roy ... and you should have few problems shooting wide open with the 400mm. I suspect you will soon be ready for a 1D because when you add AF to the mix you have a very potent birding set up.

condyk wrote in post #6897857
Nice Roy ... and you should have few problems shooting wide open with the 400mm. I suspect you will soon be ready for a 1D because when you add AF to the mix you have a very potent birding set up.

Yep, that's the only problem with shooting with a taped tc - the AF can slow considerable at times. A 1 series camera would be very useful for this alone.
Although I shoot with the bare 400 wide open just about all the time, I have found that stopping down one helps when a tc is attached.

here is another solution I had the same issue that I could not get close enough, problem solved now as long as you have some patience to wait for them to come

this is one of the best things I have purchased so far

Byte size: ZERO | Content warning: NOT AN IMAGE

Byte size: ZERO | Content warning: NOT AN IMAGE

tekkie wrote in post #6898404
here is another solution I had the same issue that I could not get close enough, problem solved now as long as you have some patience to wait for them to come

this is one of the best things I have purchased so far

| Byte size: ZERO | Content warning: NOT AN IMAGE

I snapped these a few weeks ago and before that I could not get near them, with this blind I was 8 ft away and they were clueless I was there plus I didnt have to use the TC either which made the pics even sharper

Where'd you get it at? Have a link? I've never seen one quite like that one.