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FORUMS Post Processing, Marketing & Presenting Photos RAW, Post Processing & Printing 
Thread started 31 Dec 2008 (Wednesday) 08:59
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Spyder3Pro vs. Spyder3Elite

 
Titus213
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Jan 10, 2012 13:45 |  #31

Well, the first go at printing was interesting. First off, the images contained lots of black and contrast. Perhaps I should find something much more normal to start with. The prints from Costco, using their profile, no auto correction, initially looked quite dark. When lots of light is applied to the print they look really good. Is this the normal approach? Or should the prints look bright and colorful in 'normal' light, whatever that might be? I'm thinking the very bright viewing light is technically correct. Is this brightness just an eye thing that has to be determined by the individual?

More info - the monitor is calibrated at Gamma 2.2, D65, 80 cd/m2. The Spyder originally selected 180 cd/m2 and it nearly gave me a sun tan - much too bright.


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1Tanker
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Jan 10, 2012 14:34 as a reply to  @ post 13655521 |  #32

Tough choice for me. Just got my 1st LCD monitor about 3 weeks ago. Have never calibrated. I can get the Spyder3 Pro for ~$120 now, from B&H, or preorder (and wait) for the Spyder4 Pro @ $170. I'm thinking that for a 1st time calibrating, the 3 Pro should more than suffice.


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tonylong
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Jan 10, 2012 15:12 |  #33

Titus213 wrote in post #13680733 (external link)
Well, the first go at printing was interesting. First off, the images contained lots of black and contrast. Perhaps I should find something much more normal to start with. The prints from Costco, using their profile, no auto correction, initially looked quite dark. When lots of light is applied to the print they look really good. Is this the normal approach? Or should the prints look bright and colorful in 'normal' light, whatever that might be? I'm thinking the very bright viewing light is technically correct. Is this brightness just an eye thing that has to be determined by the individual?

More info - the monitor is calibrated at Gamma 2.2, D65, 80 cd/m2. The Spyder originally selected 180 cd/m2 and it nearly gave me a sun tan - much too bright.

Yeah, the only way to view prints to compare the "brightness" is in good light -- I like daylight but a good lamp will work, although "consumer" lamps will "color" the print. So if you use a lamp, ignore the color cast by it!

Anyway, look at it this way: when you view an image on the monitor, you are viewing light being projected by the monitor, whereas with a print, you are viewing reflected light, which can only reflect the light that is available, and so it can be quite normal for a monitor with the projected light to show a brighter image if you are viewing the print at a lower light level.

Like I said, I like good daylight for viewing prints, and then a dimmer light for the monitor display. But having a nice good "neutral" light on hand is a good "workspace" option!


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Tareq
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Jan 10, 2012 23:50 |  #34

1Tanker wrote in post #13681062 (external link)
Tough choice for me. Just got my 1st LCD monitor about 3 weeks ago. Have never calibrated. I can get the Spyder3 Pro for ~$120 now, from B&H, or preorder (and wait) for the Spyder4 Pro @ $170. I'm thinking that for a 1st time calibrating, the 3 Pro should more than suffice.

I recommend you to go with Spyder3 Elite over Spyder3Pro, can't tell why but from what i read or hear that Elite is better job than Pro version of Spyer 3.

http://spyder.datacolo​r.com/s3compare.php (external link)


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Titus213
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Jan 11, 2012 00:22 |  #35

1Tanker wrote in post #13681062 (external link)
Tough choice for me. Just got my 1st LCD monitor about 3 weeks ago. Have never calibrated. I can get the Spyder3 Pro for ~$120 now, from B&H, or preorder (and wait) for the Spyder4 Pro @ $170. I'm thinking that for a 1st time calibrating, the 3 Pro should more than suffice.

With the rebate the Elite is about $150. For me the difference was worth the $30. I really wanted to be able to control the luminance and I don't think the Pro allows that.


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1Tanker
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Jan 11, 2012 03:15 as a reply to  @ Titus213's post |  #36

Ok, thanks guys! :)


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TomBrooklyn
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Apr 02, 2012 09:10 as a reply to  @ 1Tanker's post |  #37

I got new monitors and the 3 Pro cannot match them. The Dell 2311 shows light grey where the HP shows light tan.

BTW, which is the correct color on google maps urban areas, the light gray or light tan?

The HP ZR24w is too bright and the Pro can darken it OK, but it goes out of calibration within a day or so.

Video card is GeForce 5200. probably only has one LUT.




  
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cagenuts
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Apr 02, 2012 09:52 |  #38

Sounds weird. My HP ZR24w lasts for months without any calibration needed.


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René ­ Damkot
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Apr 02, 2012 10:24 |  #39

TomBrooklyn wrote in post #14195754 (external link)
Video card is GeForce 5200. probably only has one LUT.

According to this thread, it has a dual LUT, but Windows might be the problem:
http://forums.dpreview​.com …age=16512804&ch​angemode=1 (external link)

What OS are you using?


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Apr 02, 2012 16:25 |  #40

René Damkot wrote in post #14196149 (external link)
What OS are you using?

Hi Rene,
I'm using Win XP.




  
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René ­ Damkot
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Apr 03, 2012 02:45 |  #41

This might help: http://www.northlight-images.co.uk …_monitor_calibr​ation.html (external link)


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Apr 03, 2012 15:44 |  #42

I'm using an iMac but my main screen is an NEC. I used pro for years and I was never sure about it's stability. I decided to upgrade to elite and it is a world of difference. It seems to know your monitor better than pro. It renamed my new profile automatically adding NEC to the front of it. I did not have to make any inout decisions. It has been very consistent for the last month. I have yet to calibrate my iMac. I did using pro but since I'm only using it as a place to store things temporarily, documentation, training videos as I work on the main screen, etc I have not. I'm not trying to match screens but I'll get around to trying it on the iMac. I was sceptical but now I'm very happy I did it. It is is version 3 by the way.


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Apr 03, 2012 21:15 |  #43

Long story cut short, I purchased Spyder3Pro about a year ago and was not happy with the result on my iMac and MBP after days of playing around I ditched the software and got ColorEyes software, first calibration with this using my Spyder3Pro Puck give me fantastic result.

Now to the present day I was looking on Datacolor website and wondered if I should upgrade my Spyder3Pro to Elite or even get a Spyder4, the reason I just updated one of my machines to Lion and started fresh, erased and installed. So I was re installing Spyder3Pro with the latest software update just out of interest to see how it worked under Lion

The version of the Spyder3Pro software for my puck said V.4.0.6 and interestingly this seems to now calibrate OK with my Mac's, of course the version I used a year ago was much older.

1. But I still wonder should I upgrade my Spyder3Pro software, is it worth it?

2. Also as I side not I'm a bit confused over the versions. My Spyder3Pro uses software 4.0.6, is this actually the same software used on the Spyder4Pro?

3. It looks like I have the option to upgrade from Spyder3Pro to Spyder3Elite $99 anyone done this, was it a good move?

4. then I could upgrade Spyder3Elite to Spyder4Elite 4 software $19 what is this going to give me over the Spyder3Elite $99 option

5. How does the Software Version Numbers work with DataColor?


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Spyder3Pro vs. Spyder3Elite
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