Color issues HP LP2475w, please help

Hi all,

I just purchased the above monitor, but I have serious issues with the colors on it.
I started out by calibrating with a Spyder2, but the colors are very different to my calibrated Macbook Pro. After re-calibrating it now looked very different, but still not good. So I decided to manually adjust the RGB values in the screen to get a better result.
Why do I problems with the calibration? any guesses?

Now to a second one. When I have Lightroom or Photoshop open the images are fine on the Macbook Pro, but on the HP the look awful. VERY yellowish! And the strange thing is that when I drag a picture from MBP to HP it takes a ,5 sec. before the pictures goes yellow! This is on both sRGB images and AdobeRGB.

Please help, as I really would like to have my setup functional, so also if you have any tips and tricks please please let me know!

Thank you

Kristian,

I think the experts here will need to see a posted image, together with some notes about how you see it on both your screens.

I was warned off by Greta McBeth from fiddling with the RGB channels when I started using my Eye1 display2 on an LCD screen. I was told in no uncertain terms to immediately put it back into factory preset mode and leave well alone! I always return to this default mode before reprofiling, as otherwise I'm told the channel settings can drift away from nominal.

Sounds from the odd delay in colour changes that this might be a difference in the preferences set up in each software. Do you see images on-line using your browser the same in both machines?

Thanks for quick answer Richard!
I tried to take some screenshots, but could see that they are identical. This means that on HP they're both yellow and on the MBP they're both fine! This is the case for offline un-profiled and profiled pictures and online the same!

I tried to reset the monitor, (6500K) and will now try to re-re calibrate it. However, should I go for gamma 1.8, or 2.2? 2.2 right??

Sorry, bot completely true. When I see at pictures on Facebook, there is not that big a difference. No great yellow change. Only difference is due to one calibrated and one not.

I really don't understand this!! Would I benefit from investing in a X-rite i1Display2

Kristian,

Sounds like theres a difference inthe preferences preset in each computers post processing programme. All you can do is open the preferences and very carefully copy all the various settings in one, then do the same in the other and note any odd differences.

My standards for Photoshop 7 are:

RGB Working Space: AdobeRGB. sRGB is a very common alternative.
Color Management Policies: Preserve Embedded Policies
All profile mismatch and missing profile dialogues activated.
Conversion Options: Adobe (ACE). with either Perceptual or Relative Colormetric as the intent.
Black Point Compensation and Dither both activated

I always shoot in RAW and try to stick to AdobeRGB unless I know I need to use sRGB for a specific reason instead. I've never identified a visible difference in prints made from each of these, so we are nit picking.

What post processing software do you use on these two computers? The same, or two totally different software packages?

Colour temp 6500 and a gamma of 2.2 with a luminence of 120 is considered "Normal", but I use a luminence of 110, and at least one user here reports using 90 with great success. Forget about any shadow, or black luminence. This will be impossible to alter and will send you off on a wild goose chase that WILL screw up everything else.

The 6500 colour temperature should give your screen a very slight pink tinge at first sight. Some years ago a large paint manufacturer here in the UK produced a range of white paints with names like "Harvest White", "Blossom White", "Rose White", all whites to the eye, but different when held against each other.

I have never used your specific calibrator, but I'd be surprised if it cannot deal with the issues. So don't give up on it just yet.

Sounds like the monitor profile is not good.
Maybe some suggestions in this thread are helpful?
Spyder3 with Dell 2408

I just calibrated with a i1Display2 and MUCH better results. Not perfect yet, it seems a little to dark IMO. There's must have been something wrong with the Spyder, however, my dad uses it for his old cinema displays. Thanks for the help anyways guys!!

Kristian,

The screen will take a little getting used too if you have not previously set a sensible luminence level. Trust me, you will quickly adapt to it.

The next step is to see how the prints compare.

But so far so good.

What is a sensible luminance level for you?

Lower end? I'd not willingly go below the 90 level.
Top end: 120 - And that would be an absolute ceiling.

As you know, I am currently happy with 110. That does not mean I will never change it.

Okay thanks. Do you have any other tips for calibration? White point = native or 6500 or something else? I'm a total rookie when it comes to this.

Thanks again

I was advised by GretaMacBeth originally to use Native White Point and that worked fine until my old Epson 950 died and I splashed out on a new R2880.

Immediately I started getting much darker prints than the screen showed and because it had been OK before I at first ignored the monitor. Eventually I asked X Rite (the new EyeOnes owner) for help. They suggested I switch to the luminence of 110, a colour temp of 6500 and "everything will be fine". And it was!

Sweet. I'll try that. But did you see a big difference in color when going from Native to 6500? I did see a blue>yellow shift...
Furthermore, I was told by Photoshop experts at work (with Eizo monitors) that they always check their manual calibration up again a TIFF document (aRGB) with gradient etc. and one black box with values 5,5,5 (which barely can be seen) - but in my case I cannot see that one, which means my monitor is too dark! I'm just curious what RGB setting in the OSD you start out with! You're not supposed to start with 255,255,255, because then you cannot change then properly during the advanced calibration.

Sorry for many questions, but just want this to work perfectly

Have a search through this site. Somewhere there is a proper greyscale in a series of boxes from 0 to 255, rather like my quick sample here, but with smaller jumps. Download it and open it in your post processing software. You could even make your own.

In theory it should be possible to see all except the very last black one against a black background, and all except the very last white against a white background. The boxes will never jump out at you, because the differences are small. If you find that you can see differences more at one end than the other, then gently tweak the Luminence until the differences even up.

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Can I pose a question to everyone about their monitors and what is a reasonable difference in black (and white) to expect to be able to pick up visually? I'm not talking about high end pro- studio quality monitors, just the sort of kit most of us use.

I've just been playing in Photoshop with Kristians experts suggested 5.5.5, and can just about tell a difference at 10.10.10, but its iffy. The whites at the other end I've not yet explored.