Step by step calibration of my LCD with Eye One Display 2

Yes, Sorry about this folks!

Damo, Yes- I was using the Native White point. The process was "compensating for itself" in some way, way beyond my understanding, but Greta Macbeth sorted me out.

D.C. wrote in post #7027360
The screen shots are great. I have the eye 1(now) and new 24" HP coming Friday. Will be looking back at this a few times. Have calibrated my old 19" CRT with fair results(I think). Prints are a little darker that monitor, but the light in my room is very yellow. Will be trying to get it closer after Friday. All this help is appreciated. Color management baffles me!

Yeah, it was mentioned that ambient light has no effect on calibration but you and myself seen the real problems with that. When I first started the calibration I did not get good results. Now after getting some better lighting in the room everything matches perfect. Like many others I am no expert either, if this thread helps 1 person it was worth it...Jeff

I have a question that I hope someone familiar with the Eye one Display 2 can answer.

I just received my i1d2 last night. I calibrated my HP LP2475w with the following targets:

6500K
110 luminance
2.2 gamma.

First up was the contrast, I set that to 100, did my thing...

Next was brightness, I ended up adjusting my brightness to around 15 to hit the luminance target of 110.

Next I chose RGB controls, hit next, but the software never prompted me to make RGB slider adjustments. It went through about 8 to 10 minutes of profiling, and then prompted me to save my profile.

I went through the process twice, just to make sure I didn't miss something...

Jim,

Is your HP LP2475W a lflat screen monitor? If it is, according to GretaMacbeth you should not touch the RGB channels anyway. With the old CRT technology, its OK, but they were very firm about resetting back to manufacturers defaults after I had an issue in the early days with my flat screen Samsung 910N.

The option to adjust the channels is in the "advanced" calibration, where it asks whether you have RGB presets or not. I always ignore that bit, don't even answer the question, and just move on past it by hitting the right arrow.

Both GretaMcBeth and more recently X-Rite have been very helpful to me on the two or three occasions I've had problems. If you are concerned, I'd recommend you log on to their web site and ask the question.

Yes, the HP is a flat screen LCD (IPS at that )

Anyway, I did the "advanced" track, I reset the contrast to 100 when it asked. I chose the "RGB Controls" radio button, I was just surprised that it never mentioned any adjustments to these controls, whether it be individual adjustments, or default settings...

Jim,

The proof of the pudding is in the eating, are you happy with the result and how does it compare with prints?

Lowner wrote in post #7162874
Jim,

The proof of the pudding is in the eating, are you happy with the result and how does it compare with prints?

I just did my first eye-one calibration last night, so I haven't had a chance yet to do any real work with it.

I imagine that it will still take a bit of time to adjust to the new luminance. My previous brightness/contrast settings from my spyder2 were 46 and 44 respectively. With the eye-one calibration, those settings are now 15 and 100.

I also have the HP and Eye-one. I calibrated to luminance of 120. I worked the RGB sliders. They all ended up in the 130 range to get 6500 white point. They were at the top when I started. Settings ended up at about brightness 51 and contrast 100. Screen seems bright. I also started using Lightroom 2(learning) and a new pixma pro 9000. Finally had a chance to do a picture from start to finish. It turned out very close. After I printed the pic, I let it dry and viewed it under an OTT light(daylight) next to the screen.

I would like to know if a person needs to deal with the RGB sliders? If you leave them and just pick the 6500K white point, will it turn out the same? Will the RGB numbers at the top, bottom, or middle make a difference as long as the combine to 6500K?

I have been thinking of lowering the luminance to 110 and try that, but hate to mess it up!!

I like the monitor, but the wife hates it. OOPS!!

Generally speaking, on an LCD, consensus seems to be: Don't mess with the RGB controls if you don't have to.

Try "Native" whitepoint first. If that get's you close to 6500K after calibration, that's the best option.

BluewookieJim wrote in post #7162626
Next I chose RGB controls, hit next, but the software never prompted me to make RGB slider adjustments.

You have to hit "Start", not "Next". "Next" will just jump straight to the next step.

Damo77 wrote in post #7164483
You have to hit "Start", not "Next". "Next" will just jump straight to the next step.

That is actually what I meant, the button that is NOT the right arrow...

BluewookieJim wrote in post #7164592
That is actually what I meant, the button that is NOT the right arrow...

With respect, I don't believe you. (I know that doesn't sound particularly respectful!)

If you've set a white target, and you get the screen where you can choose between "Controls" and "Presets", then the only reason it wouldn't do so is if you skip straight past. It's easy enough to do by accident - I've done it a dozen times myself.

I hear what you are saying but I did go through the calibration twice last night because I felt like that was missing. And I clearly hit the "start" rather than the right arrow when I did the white point...

I'll try it again when I go home tonight anyway.

While I am it it, in the drop down menus of the eyeMatch software, there is one section where you can choose between small (matrix) and large (LUT), and also version 2 vs version 4 of something. Any advice about that?

Jim,

I've not noticed those options I must admit. I'll explore them later.

René Damkot wrote in post #7163487
Generally speaking, on an LCD, consensus seems to be: Don't mess with the RGB controls if you don't have to.

Try "Native" whitepoint first. If that get's you close to 6500K after calibration, that's the best option.

I have to agree with that, and add that it's best not to adjust the contrast either - just set it to the factory default (80 on the L2475W, I believe). The only thing you should adjust is brightness, which generally controls the backlight. Leave the RGB values on 100. I know it sounds weird, but read on...

Images sent to a monitor use 8 bits per colour (256 values each for red, green, blue). Using a profiled system, the colours can be corrected in 3 places:
- In, say, Photoshop when it applies the monitor profile.
- By the graphics card, which applies the calibration Look Up Table (LUT) created during profiling.
- By the monitor if you change the RGB values, contrast etc. Note that, with a DVI connection, all adjustments other than the backlight are digital - they are done by manipulating the image RGB values.

Now 256 values per colour are not a lot to play with. Every time they are adjusted, rounding errors are introduced. If they are adjusted several times, these errors can build on each other and give rise to 'steps' in the response. This would show up as uneven colour or greyscale gradients (e.g. sunny skies may not look smooth). It is better to minimize the number of times corrections are made. Therefore, you should leave the monitor on its default settings (where it won't adjust the RGB values) and let the corrections be dealt with by the LUT created by the profiling software.

All this info comes from some of the industry gurus that used to hang out on the (old) Rob Galbraith forums. Not that I don't trust them, but I decided to do a quick test when I calibrated my LP2475W I used 'native' white balance each time (leaving RGB values on 100) and performed one calibration with contrast adjustment on the monitor and one without (i.e. left on the default of 80). Even though the first calibration only needed me to adjust it down to 72, I could clearly see on some test images that the colour gradients were less smooth on that calibration, with some obvious steps in the response in some colours.