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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 09 Jan 2009 (Friday) 11:23
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Rudi
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Jan 09, 2009 22:54 |  #16

Hermes wrote in post #7041190 (external link)
Hi Tim, Robert turned me onto this thread.

I'd definitely recommend sticking with the same brand for the monolights and the pack - having two sets of modifiers, two repair centres, two local dealers, e.t.c. will cost you a lot of time and money. You'll most likely end up spending as much on modifiers as you do on the strobes themselves. Not sure if it applies in this case but it's also worth noting that different manufacturers build their lights to different colour-temperature specs so you could end up having to deal with mixed lighting. What is it about the Dyna-Lite pack that you can't find in the Elinchrom range?

I have to disagree with Wilt about the inflexible power settings of packs not being an issue - moving strobes backwards and forwards to increase/decrease the light hitting your subject is not being in control, and in my mind is definitely not an acceptable compromise in a studio. You should have the capability to decide on the light spread, position and relative size of the modifier and then set the power level you want, rather than being forced to position your lights based on the output you need and accept whatever size & spread you happen to get.

Personally, I use Elinchrom RXs for studio work (each one can be adjusted through a six stop range) and I only break out a pack when I need more than 1200ws of power (very rare). The boom issue is solved with these lights as you can set the output by remote or by software. It's true that they are heavier than pack heads but they're still only a couple of kilos - any half-decent boom will be able to support them, and as far as I'm concerned any boom that can't support such a small amount of weight is a safety hazard regardless of how heavy your lights are.

Hope that's given you another perspective. Like I said, I don't use packs all that often as they don't give the degree of control I need for studio work, but I do have some experience with the Elinchrom range so if you need any info I'll do what I can.

I agree with everything Hermes wrote above. In the studio, the combination of RX strobes and Skyport RX radio triggers gives you the best of both worlds! I also wouldn't mix brands, it's more trouble than it's worth, IMO.

For location shooting with no AC power, the Ranger system runs rings around the RX strobes, of course. Not only that, it happily co-exists with my RX600 strobes inside the studio, for those time when I need more (or less) power from a light. Instead of having to purchase an RX1200 mono, my Ranger happily punches out 1100Ws when I need it. Instead of purchasing a separate RX300 mono, my Ranger turns down to lower powers than even the RX300... and both my systems accept the same modifiers! :)


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Wilt
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Jan 10, 2009 00:10 |  #17

Rudi wrote in post #7043542 (external link)
Speaking from the point of view of using Elinchrom Ranger packs, in this scenario you assume that you have a separate power pack for each head! Because if you don't, with the Ranger packs you are locked into a particular ratio when you connect more than one head (1:1 with the Ranger RX and Ranger RX Speed, and 2:1 with the Ranger RX Speed AS). But then... if you have a separate pack for each head, why not adjust the power in 1/10 stop increments, since the Ranger already accommodates this?

(I know other brands might have different features, the above applies to Elinchrom Ranger packs).

Not being familiar with all products, I assumed that the Ranger RX were typical monolights in my generalization. Note that I didn't state what the Ranger could do at all, I merely provided information on the Dynalites.


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Rudi
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Jan 10, 2009 00:18 |  #18

Wilt wrote in post #7043889 (external link)
Not being familiar with all products, I assumed that the Ranger RX were typical monolights in my generalization. Note that I didn't state what the Ranger could do at all, I merely provided information on the Dynalites.

I understand, Wilt, and that is why I included the disclaimer in brackets. :)


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TMR ­ Design
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Jan 11, 2009 12:07 |  #19

Wilt wrote in post #7040123 (external link)
Robert must have an attractive young blonde potential client looking thru his portfolio and trying to decide if she wants to hire him to do some boudoir shots for her SO! :lol: I'll help you with testing again, Robert!

HI Wilt,

I just saw this post and it made me laugh. This time, I'm sorry to say I was not with an attractive young lady thinking about boudoir shots.. ;)

That happens next week.:D


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DocFrankenstein
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Jan 11, 2009 12:23 |  #20

In practice, the 'less flexible power' is not an issue...you only need to move a single stand a couple of feet forward or back, for 1/2 EV adjustment!

I'd have to disagree strongly.

I've used the D-lite jackrabbit and it is an awesome "strobist" light when I'm shooting outside with one light only.

But if I could afford it, I'd prefer the ranger over D-lite any day and in my living room studio I'd shoot monolights with decent controls over the power levels.


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RichNY
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Jan 11, 2009 14:44 |  #21

2000 w/s strobes give off quite a bit of power. I have a pair of 2400 w/s Profotos and other than testing just how much of a hockey rink could be lit by one 2400 w/s burst I have never had a need for that much power. I definitely agree with multiple smaller packs if you go that way. Don't forget you can up the ISO one stop and be at the same amount of light.

As for shooting basketball, why not continue to use your existing solution? They are lighter to carry, you won't need as sturdy/heavy grip to hold them, and they will recycle quicker than a studio flash.

IMO it sounds like a 2-3 Elinchrom BX will get you going in the studio, your sports lights are covered (perhaps add an Al Jacobs black box for more power) and for your outdoor shooting initially try mounting a pair of your hot shoe flashes on a bracket like Robert did (another use for your black box) to see how much power you are really going to need. When you see how high you have to up your ISO you'll have a good idea as to what if anything you are going to need or whether the strobist approach will work for your needs.


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timbernet
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Jan 11, 2009 17:33 |  #22

RichNY wrote in post #7053558 (external link)
As for shooting basketball, why not continue to use your existing solution? They are lighter to carry, you won't need as sturdy/heavy grip to hold them, and they will recycle quicker than a studio flash.

I don't think hotshoe flashes @ 1/2 power recycle quicker than pack+head system designed for sports. The issue I have with my current setup is that gyms don't always have the best lighting and 2-4 hotshoe flashes can't always bring the light to an acceptable level. College gyms are usually pretty good... but the high school gyms... good gravy - I am surprised the players can see eachother :-D

Thank you everyone for your input - after a lot of reading on here, other forums, company websites, blogs, etc, etc, etc I am going to go with Dyna-Lite...

This has been really tough... both Elinchrom and Dyna-Lite have a lot of strengths, but in the end, I think the Dyna-Lites will serve me well.... and if after using them for awhile they don't with my style of shooting, I can always sell them and go with Elinchrom.




  
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jalneal
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Jun 11, 2009 00:12 |  #23

I have a dyna-lite 2000 w/s pack with 2 2040 heads, 3 white lightning 600 ultras, a white lightning 1200 ultra and a white lightning ultra XL1600 - I can say that the combination of monolights with the pack and head have been perfect for me, and mainly for the purposes you mentioned above (need for lighter heads on booms and occasional high power.) I haven't had any real problems with the color temperature shifts, you should be able to get the color temp. spec from the manufacturer. Some maufacturers have more than one color temp. bulb. The pack and head has less versatility, but for shooting smaller products, etc. I tend to use quite a few modifiers/reflectors anyway, and supplementing the packs with lower power monolights usually gives me all the diversity I could imagine I'd need.

I'm certainly not the technical expert on the subject, just very happy with my results. As Wilt noted earlier, two 1000 w/s packs may be more versatile than 1 2000 w/s pack. I would certainly voice this - I very infrequently step above 1000 w/s, and while the pack gives you more versatility than you would think, you are essentially stepping ratios between the lights up or down in full stop increments, at least on the model I have (an older 2000XL)

Best of luck to you, whether you go all one brand or split, my guess is you'll probably not look back wishing if only, two top notch brands are likely to deliver great service.




  
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Strobe choices (attn Wilt and TMR ;-) )
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