Lens for aerial shots

As I mentioned on my birthday thread here: https://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthre​ad.php?t=629948 I'll be going for my very first time to take some pictures from a plane. I'm sure any 70-200mm L will be great here but thats one I don't have and no place near to rent so from what I do have I would like to know which would be the best lens for this purpose.

70-300mm IS, 24-105 L or 85L. I'm guessing the 24-105mm L, first IQ is better than 70-300 and for wider shots but then not sure if I would want closer shots (hey I've never seen my place from up there). The 85mm is new I have no idea how difficult could it be focusing for this situations.

FYI Flight will be on private plane, (like a Cesna, I believe), in the morning, a 1 hour trip. Hopefully my nerves don't mess me up, I really love to get some pictures since I saw this exhibiton from Yann Arthur Bertran I got hooked!

Suggestions and recomendations are very appreciated, also any advice are welcome. Thanks.

I would expect that the small plane is going to be shaking and therefore, an IS lens is really needed.

gasrocks wrote in post #7081978
I would expect that the small plane is going to be shaking and therefore, an IS lens is really needed.

24-105L and 70-300 both have IS,
Thanks

What altitude will you be at, in general? And did you want pix of the landscape or details, like one farm/house? That would surely push you toward wide vs. telephoto.

The 5d2 and 24-105 are all you need.

Hopefully the small plane will be wing over.

Sit in the back and open the window if possible.

Take a deep breath and stick your camera and your head out the window and start shooting. The prop wash from the plane will take your breath.

It will be cold (even in July or August). It's cold up there. Wear something warm.

You said "Morning". Get up there early and hope for a sunny day. The early time and sun will give your shots perspective.

This time of year (and I don't know where you live) you should not have to worry about day time heating. This causes up drafts that bounce a small plane around. You are going to bounce around anyway.

The plane should have an intercomm to talk with the pilot. If not, work out some hand signals before you leave the ground.

If the pilot has taken photographers up before then you have it made. If not talk to him about what you want to shoot. Open window etc.

If you can't open the window then get as close to the glass as possible to prevent reflections in your photos. You also wear dark clothes.

If there are landmarks in your area try to get to them. Ask the pilot how low he can fly. (there are restrictions)

An hour is more that enough time to shoot alot.

Denny

Gasrocks: I'm not sure of the altitude. Thanks
Denny G: Thanks for your advice, I'll keep them in mind. Just thinking of sticking my head out of the window and I need to take some Imodium already LOL.
The flight will be mainly at the coast (beaches, lighthouse, ) not much that I recall. Thanks

Imodium? ? ?

Sorry, I'm a photographer, not a doctor.

I thought you wanted info on aerials.

On commercial flights they have barf bags.

On your flight?

Sh*t, I thought I was helping.


Sorry.



Take the flght, and then come back and show us your photos.

Totally incorrect, IS is for camera movement not for vehicle movement, the manual recommend you to turn off IS if you shoot from a car.

I think a 70-200 is a good idea for an aerial take.

gasrocks wrote in post #7081978
I would expect that the small plane is going to be shaking and therefore, an IS lens is really needed.

Where (what page) what manual, what lens does it say that.

"""""turn off IS if you shoot from a car"""""""""""".

You're going to want to sit in the righthand front seat in order to shoot out an open window however, on some older Cessnas, the right window does not open. Depending upon how many folks are on board (weight and balance issue), the pilot should allow you to slide your seat back a bit so you have room to maneuver your body.

If it does open, there is usually a stop to keep it from swinging all the way up but this can be detatched at the pilot's discretion. The slipstream will hold the window open.

Be sure your camera strap is firmly around your neck as there is quite a bit of suction out an open window in flight. Don't ask me how I know (hint: there is a chart lying in the desert somewhere south of Blythe, CA that found out the hard way...)

Remove your lens hood!! Hoods catch wind like crazy and it will make it hard to hold steady. IS is helpful but not totally necessary if you are in calm air. Avoid leaning on any part of the plane as this will transmit vibration through you to your camera.

Flying in early morning or late evening air is best for a smooth ride.

Keep your shutter speeds up to minimize shake. From altitude, depth of field isn't a major concern.

If you begin to feel even the slightest bit airsick, get your eye out of the viewfinder and ask the pilot to please fly straight and level as soon as practicable. He/She should be more than happy to comply as no pilot likes cleaning vomit out of an airplane.

Above all else, enjoy the fllight. Look around and soak in the sights. It's the closest thing to a magic carpet ride people can get.

Page 8 of the 28-135 manual says:
Advice about the use of Image Stabilization:
The IS will not work effectively if (1) The dubject is moving at high speed (2) Pictures taken from a moving vehicle

Denny G wrote in post #7083946
Where (what page) what manual, what lens does it say that.

"""""turn off IS if you shoot from a car"""""""""""".

luigis wrote in post #7084013
Page 8 of the 28-135 manual says:
Advice about the use of Image Stabilization:
The IS will not work effectively if (1) The dubject is moving at high speed (2) Pictures taken from a moving vehicle

The relative motion from altitude is fairly small in a light single airplane moving at 80-100mph...

I'd still use IS.

I forgot to mention earlier that the 24-105 IS would be great choice.

Okay Luigis, you got me ?. I can't find the manual for my 28-135 (remember when they were white?) Anyway that brings up a whole new story. I bought the 28-135 in 1999 to shoot aerials because of the IS.

I used the 28-135 on a film camera (EOS-1) and an EF20-35L on another film camera (EOS1n) for wide. I thought the IS would solve all my problems. It may have but I still shot at a high shutter speed. Low ASA 100 so we could (if we liked) make posters.

Jay. I don't remember what plane/heilcopter I was shooting from. I always got in the back and on the floor. (needed to change film). Open the window and pilot always said hold the window until it was fully open so as to not let it fly and break. Those were the Cessna's.

When I flew in the Piper Super Cub. I sit in the front seat and had to start the plane. The pilot sit in the back and flew the plane. We flew super slow and he would put the plane into a bank and just make a turn around the subject I was trying to shoot.

I shot alot in West Texas where the day time heating would really bump us around. Needed to get up early.

I also shot alot in Mexico (Old Mexico) where we had no restrictions on altitute. Try landing on a runway where they have to clear the goats before you can set down.

Air sick. Okay. I flew in a small plane in Syracuse New York with an old Luftwaffe pilot. He told me I was going to be sick and I said BS. I did get sick.
It was one of my first aerial photo jobs. I've never been air sick since.
Really was a former Luftwaffe pilot. 1970.

Have fun.

Denny G: The Imodium thing was just a joke, thanks for your great advice, I'll be using the 24-105, with IS on, I myself might be the one shaking (thats another joke).
FlyingPhotog: Thank you for all your advice, I'll try to keep them all in mind.

I'll keep inform.