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Thread started 20 Jan 2009 (Tuesday) 21:16
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Macro Speed Challenge #11 - Objects in Motion

 
brecklundin
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Jan 28, 2009 23:00 |  #31

lavanut: what about buying a simple motion sensor and wireless trigger (phottix since they are cheap). Take the trigger apart and wire the motion sensor instead of the button. Not sure of you could bypass the remote's button but it might be possible. ANd that could be used as a poor dude's motion trigger?

I haven't really played with 2nd curtain stuff at all...only thing I read was to add more motion to a panning shot the 2nd curtain will not freeze things as much? Or do I have that bassackwards? No matter it's down my list for most of what I like doing right now...still I need to find that section in Understanding Shutter Speed which I have just done a cursory skim of so far...btw, I really like Bryan Peterson's books a lot.


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Daniel2000
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Jan 28, 2009 23:07 |  #32

second curtain flash can create cool effect like in this shot I made
no PP except for levels
used a flash light for the trail, 13 sec exposure and second curtain flash
http://i252.photobucke​t.com …niel2000/IMG_93​42copy.jpg (external link)

and yes it's me.. :p


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Jan 28, 2009 23:29 |  #33

Daniel2000 wrote in post #7210405 (external link)
second curtain flash can create cool effect like in this shot I made

OK, that one needs explaining.




  
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Daniel2000
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Jan 28, 2009 23:40 |  #34

I've set exposure to 13 sec, moved the flashlight in the dark room around me and the flash triggered at the end ot the 13 sec to give that pic
pre focus the shot before turning the lights out ;)


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Jan 29, 2009 00:39 |  #35

I'm going to have to try that one! Cool effect.




  
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icon134
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Jan 29, 2009 06:41 |  #36

genodm wrote in post #7210529 (external link)
OK, that one needs explaining.

I'll field it... Basically the second curtain flash basically opens the shutter for a longer exposure without the flash then opens it up again for a short flash burst.

Often it is used to expose the foreground of a group of people (using the flash) while allowing background to expose a bit more such as might happen in a night scene in a big city.

But it can also work as in the case of what lavanut did where he catches the movement of the nickel then freezes the nickel.


http://oreilly.com/pub​/h/1771 (external link)

And penny... please don't be intimidated... I am certainly not an expert myself... but am using these competitions to learn new things and develop some new skills... (I only learned refraction techniques from my first contest entry a month ago...)

Love the discussion everyone...


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John_B
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Jan 29, 2009 07:00 |  #37

Here is how I got my photo Multi Light H20

I set up my camera on a tripod using the 1:1 macro setting on my 100mm macro lens.

IMAGE: http://johnbdigital.com/temp/temp2/macro_11_setup.jpg
After I focused and set up my camera I turned off the lights and aimed a laser beam into the water and took a ISO 1600 photo. Then took another photo using the LED flash light at ISO 200. Both photos were f/2.8 and 1/8th second exposure. Then just combined both photos (50% each) to one photo.

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pennypue
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Jan 29, 2009 07:11 |  #38

icon134 wrote in post #7211706 (external link)
http://oreilly.com/pub​/h/1771 (external link)

And penny... please don't be intimidated... I am certainly not an expert myself... but am using these competitions to learn new things and develop some new skills... (I only learned refraction techniques from my first contest entry a month ago...)

Love the discussion everyone...

Love the link. Still a bit beyond me. I need another six weeks off work to play. I don't even know how to do mirror lockup yet. :rolleyes:

Refraction? hehe, dunno exactly what you mean. Is that the water droplet stuff?

(I'm still intimidated...:))


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Macro Speed Challenge #11 - Objects in Motion
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