Post your best photo with the lens cap still on

Jam71868 wrote in post #7212579
Lets see those 12 hot/dead pixels out of 21 million available!!

You have too much time on your hands.

Here is a picture that I accidentally took with my lens cap on:

HTTP response: 404 | MIME changed to 'text/html' | Byte size: ZERO

Thanks to http://dwn3966.k12.sd.​us/Event/what_went_wro​ng.htm

Merran wrote in post #7228533
I wonder if Canon are aware of this problem - perhaps they should make the 1DIII with plastic bodies.

They do if you shop at Sonic Cameras, or Broadway Photo, or 20 or 30 of their other scam sites. They will certainly sell you the upgraded metal weather-sealed MKIII for a mere $500 more than what they sell these "plastic" body ones.

Well, thanks to this wonderful thread, I tried to do a hot pixel test on the 30D I am selling. This time, I decided to just mount my best L lens on the body, leave the lens cap on, and I was able to get some pretty sharp little buggers due to the great glass. Since I was at the end of my zoom range, I decided to do one more test, and started to foot zoom as I was taking a long exposure, hoping to really bring these babies in.

Well, little did I know my kids left the shovels and sleds out on the walkway, and down I went.... Thanks, this will be an expensive insurance claim now, but at least I am okay.

TeamSpeed wrote in post #7228721
Well, thanks to this wonderful thread, I tried to do a hot pixel test on the 30D I am selling. This time, I decided to just mount my best L lens on the body, leave the lens cap on, and I was able to get some pretty sharp little buggers due to the great glass. Since I was at the end of my zoom range, I decided to do one more test, and started to foot zoom as I was taking a long exposure, hoping to really bring these babies in.

Well, little did I know my kids left the shovels and sleds out on the walkway, and down I went.... Thanks, this will be an expensive insurance claim now, but at least I am okay.

Wow. You took it out of you sig so quickly.

mattograph wrote in post #7228770
Wow. You took it out of you sig so quickly.

That camera is okay, and I hope when I post up the lens for sale, nobody will even notice....

TeamSpeed wrote in post #7228786
That camera is okay, and I hope when I post up the lens for sale, nobody will even notice....

PM when you're ready. I sense a deal......

TeamSpeed wrote in post #7228786
That camera is okay, and I hope when I post up the lens for sale, nobody will even notice....

As long as you put an L lens cap on it, nobody will think twice about it.

After all, lens caps have much more of an effect on image quality than bodies!

I'm thinking about upgrading my lens cap. Do you experts have any suggestions?

iseecanonpeople wrote in post #7218165
i got a 40D kit this is what I got.. white dots lots of em.... but it seem that the yellow dot is eating it and the single red dot is almost gone...

HTTP response: NOT FOUND | MIME changed to 'image/png'

The best. lol

Wow there are some strange posts in this thread, a lot of people seem to have the wrong idea about defective pixels

Jam71868 wrote in post #7212579
Lets see those 12 hot/dead pixels out of 21 million available!!

The frequency of defective pixels on a CMOS imaging sensor is not uniform across sensors. Different sensors have different amounts of defective pixels, and it's hard to tell the exact amount as many should be screened out during the intial production stage CMOS calibration

TeamSpeed wrote in post #7213505
I kept trying to do this, but without an IS body cap, I cannot keep the body still enough to make the dots clear with the shutter times I am getting. Too much handshake, oh well....

TeamSpeed wrote in post #7214402
Okay, I was able to do this, however, I find that on my particular EOS body, the hot pixels are very soft, where can I get a sharper body cap so that I can make these out better? Or do I just bump my lens cap aperture to f/300 or so? I can't use my pinhole lens cap lens, because then I can't see the hot pixels. This is very frustrating.

The dots are a sensor malfunction, it should not be affected by what the lens resolves optically (i.e. handshake should be irrelevant)

Reign wrote in post #7215133
I lost my lens cap, so I have an opportunity to shop around for another. Has anyone made image quality comparisons between a 55mm Canon lens cap versus the 55mm Sigma lens cap?

The lens cap is detached from the lens when photographing, and does not impede the optical path, nor affect it in any manner, so the brand of cap is irrelevant for image quality purposes. The only possible conceivable way that a lens cap type can affect resultant image quality from the lens is if the inside of the lens cap is poorly designed so that it ends up scratching the front element. Scratches may result in increased flare, and possibly loss of contrast

Exu wrote in post #7215314
I tried all the suggestions posted here, use a tripod, MLU, original Canon lens cap( 2 trips to Canon ), long zoom lens, flash gun, UV filter (Hoya), a bit of PP (CS4), and all I get is a stupid black picture with strange colored dots.

What am I doing wrong?

If you are getting strange colored dots in a photo which was taken with the lens cap on, it suggests you have defective pixels and that your CMOS will need to be recalibrated by Canon

Bill Roberts wrote in post #7215165
Would a protective filter help with taking a photo with the lens cap on?
And if so... do you think I'd be better off with Heliopan, B+W or Hoya?

I'm really confused about this...

The photo will likely come out pitch black, and the filter would thus make no meaningful impact on the image as there would be no discernible subject matter anyway

asidrave wrote in post #7216050
When i hold my lens cap up to my eyes...i see hot pixels. Do i need to send my glasses to Canon for a lens calibration?

Canon deal with their products only, if you are suffering issues with other optical products, you would be better served to seek advice from the respective manufacturer. Having said that though, it would not be normal for corrective spectacles to exhibit symptoms of phenomena associated with electronic devices.

Jam71868 wrote in post #7217660
Well.... this thread has been a success.

I initially started it to make sarcastic fun of all the moronic methods used to find something wrong with Canon cameras, especially the 5d mkii.

However, this thread has turned out to be quite entertaining. Some great responses, questions and suggestions.

Defective pixels are a very real, and problematic issue though. You probably should have chosen a better topic to satirize.

tonylong wrote in post #7219447
For a hand-held meter, you can "rubber band" things by going into a completely dark room for your reading.

To ensure that all qixels are properly in focus, make sure that you use the narrowest apeture your lens affords -- f/22, f/32, whatever. On the downside, you may see some diffraction, but the upshot of that is the hot pixels should spread out a bit and so be more visible.

You are misinformed here, the defective pixels are a sensor defect, and are not affected by optical limits such as diffraction.

samoan_ridah wrote in post #7220695
Should I be bouncing my flash or using a diffuser here?

As the lens cap will block the light from entering the lens, this is an irrelevant issue

soileauj wrote in post #7221541
ef2, you need to clean your sensor....nothing but white all over when enlarged.....Great Thread

A uniform color is indicative of a clean sensor. It is only when there are unusual marks or spots that a sensor clean may be required

GSansoucie wrote in post #7223650
Oh, great thread.

I've decided to quit my day job and become a professional photographer. I plan to start shooting weddings possibly this weekend.

What lens cap should I get that will give me the best pictures?

Money is no object, I want the best.

What technique do you use for shooting with the lens cap on?

Oh yeah, money is tight, I have a couple of pennies and 1/2 used tube of chap stick.

The cap is to protect the front of the lens, it is not supposed to be on the lens when you take a photograph. As such, the lens cap itself has no direct implications for image quality, but may indirectly affect the image quality derived from the lens if it somehow damages the lens element or impedes your own performance through poor design. Canon lens caps are generally regarded as poor because they do not have a centre pinch function, which impairs their ease of use

Your statement suggests a lack of familiarity around camera systems. I suggest learning the functions of your equipment, and getting some experience before taking on weddings.

ozziepuppy wrote in post #7223960
Canon L lens caps are the best. When you go to purchase one, be sure the word Lens on the outside of the box begins with a capital red L. Now, there are two main kinds of Lens Caps: The black ones with red stripes aound them and the white ones. White ones are considered better because they reflect the hot pixels better. Now, it is true that you could also consider Sigmund, Keeno, or Ramrod lens caps. Some people prefer to start with lower level lens caps (LLLC) and trade their way up as they become more secure about how to take pictures with the caps on the lenses. In your case, however, since you are quitting your day job prior to actually learning how to shoot, I think you should just go ahead and get several L lens caps to start with, especially since you are going to begin by shooting weddings this weekend. Oh, and if you want to look really professional, be sure to put a feather in your, uh, cap. (Duck feathers work best.) If you have any additional questions, please don't hesitate to ask. After all, how else are you going to learn?

This is incorrect. Canon lens caps are generally regarded as poor because they do not have a centre pinch function, which impairs their ease of use. Tamron, Tokina and Nikon Caps are far superior with their centre pinch functions. I routinely replace my Canon caps with Tamron Caps from B&H Photo

kcbrown wrote in post #7224471
Well, that depends on whether or not you want to isolate the hot pixels from the background. To isolate them you'll need to use a wide aperture.

But keep in mind that if you use a wide aperture, your focus will be a lot more critical -- it'll be easier to get the hot pixels out of focus and thus ruin the shot. It's best, if you can, to use live view for focusing on the hot pixels in that case.

If your camera doesn't let you see the hot pixels while in live view then you'll need to send it in for servicing.

:p

Defect pixels are native to the sensor. Lens optical considerations are irrelevant. Changing aperture or DOF or focus will not affect the appearance of defect pixels

peber wrote in post #7218925
Well, I thought you needed a macro lens to shoot the lens cap... That can explain why some of you are having problems!

/Per

You don't HAVE to have a macro lens. You only need a macro lens if you want a 1:1 photo of the lens cap. But even then, you can probably get away with a lower magnification lens, and crop in.

keener wrote in post #7221868
I just came from an alternate reality where people were fussing about black dots like there was no tomorrow. Anyway, canon fixed those up with a firmware upgrade. Just hang tight and wait for Canon to release a firmware fix for you white dots. Okay, heading back to my other reality now, bye!

This thread is about defective pixels on the CMOS imaging sensor. The Black dots were an imaging phenomena that has now been addressed, but defect pixels are still a problem, and Canon's poor QC is making it worse as these should be screened out during the initial CMOS calibration during production

mattograph wrote in post #7225885
It amazes me how the inside of a lens cap seems to eliminate hot pixels.

Did you make a typo? Photographing with a lens cap on is designed to exacerbate the visual perception of defective pixels. By isolating these defective pixels against a black background, it allows the human eye to identify their location and occurrence easier.

Tareq wrote in post #7226521
OH MY, my lens cap dropped on the floor, where i can fix it? how much to fix it?

Is there any news lens cap coming soon in the market, my lens cap is an old version now, i want lens cap Mark VII now, but i hope it will not be so expensive, i can't pay more than $50, it is too much, so i will wait until the prices go down to about $20-30 then i may buy one.

Are you sure you aren't being ripped off? Lens Caps are usually under $10. You are grossly overpaying for lens caps.

^^^ smorter... You're either an absolute MASTER of satire... or you've no sense of humour whatsoever!

cheers

So I got a new lens cap and I want to test it. I will be doing this in studio. My kit includes 6 AB1600s. Any suggestions on the best set up so i can get the best result?

I saw what seems to be a good deal on a case of L Lens Caps: You could get 10,000 of them for only $19.95. I know they usually go for $100 apiece. The online store was in Brooklyn, so I know it must be legit. Should I go for this deal?

smorter wrote in post #7231530
Did you make a typo? Photographing with a lens cap on is designed to exacerbate the visual perception of defective pixels. By isolating these defective pixels against a black background, it allows the human eye to identify their location and occurrence easier.

Are we still having fun?