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FORUMS Sample Photo Archives Lens Sample Photo Archive 
Thread started 09 Feb 2009 (Monday) 22:20
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MF Adapted Lens Image Samples - Post Your Best!

 
gkarris
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Jun 01, 2011 16:03 |  #2146

^^^ awesome! Maybe the distortion is caused by the adaptive lens?




  
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Davivascaino
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Jun 01, 2011 16:10 |  #2147

Hey guys, I started to put my takumar outside to get some uv light to reduce the yellowish color of the glass!My question is: do I need to remove the rear cap? I am afraid about setting fire on my home Lol


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18-55 mm IS, Tamron 70-300 DI VC, Canon 50mm 1.8 MKII, Super Takumar 50mm 1.4, Sigma 17-70mm F2.8-4 DC Macro OS, Sigma 30mm EX 1.4, 580EXII flash

  
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cptrios
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Jun 01, 2011 16:29 |  #2148

buggz wrote in post #12516804 (external link)
- Spiratone 135mm f1.8

My copy of this giant hunk of glass came in Minolta MC/MD mount.
I'm using an adapter from Fotodiox, it has glass in it.
I know this isn't the correct solution, but, I wanted to play as soon as I could.
I am uncertain if the adapter or the lens causes the vignetting I see in my pics.

this ^^^ series of 3 is a pool railing, BTW...

Ooh. I was on the verge of buying one of those myself (I think a "Weltblick" branded model), but the auction went about $50 higher than I felt like paying. I would say that the funky distortion is certainly compounded by the in-glass adapter, but I wouldn't expect it to utterly disappear if you stuck it on a Minolta film SLR. None of the old super-fast 135s (this, the Weltblick version, the Soligor, the Vivitar) are particularly renowned for their optical quality. There's a Pentax K 135/1.8 that's supposed to be pretty good (but copies sell for a hell of a lot more than those others) and a very rare Vivitar 135/1.5 that seems fairly solid for such a ridiculous design.

Basically, you should expect this lens to be "quirky" and learn to love it!

Oh, and if you got it fairly cheaply and really want to have a go at using it a lot, you should ditch that adapter and take a crack at modding it to fit an EOS mount. I've seen a lot of people do it with the famed Rokkor 58/1.2, so it's certainly possible. You might need some serious equipment though! (Or ship it out to one of them)

Here's a page showing just such a mod. (external link)


Fuji X100 / Sony NEX-7 / Contax G 45mm f/2 / The ghosts of 3 Canon bodies past / A meagre amount of talent
My weak lil' 500px (external link)

  
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Tony-S
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Jun 01, 2011 17:32 |  #2149

Davivascaino wrote in post #12517652 (external link)
Hey guys, I started to put my takumar outside to get some uv light to reduce the yellowish color of the glass!My question is: do I need to remove the rear cap?

You must point the rear element towards the UV source, not the front element. The thorium oxide is in the element that is closest to the mirror box and if you have light go through the front instead of the rear it will not clear the yellowing.


"Raw" is not an acronym, abbreviation, nor a proper noun; thus, it should not be in capital letters.

  
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Davivascaino
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Jun 01, 2011 20:49 |  #2150

Tony-S wrote in post #12518098 (external link)
You must point the rear element towards the UV source, not the front element. The thorium oxide is in the element that is closest to the mirror box and if you have light go through the front instead of the rear it will not clear the yellowing.

So should I remove the front cap or just leave it on. Because I learned in high school that if you put a lens towards the UV source, you might have fire:D:D

Usually how long does it take to clear it up?


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Tony-S
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Jun 01, 2011 21:16 |  #2151

No, you won't get a fire if the lens is sitting on its front flange.

I'm not sure how long it'll take yours. I used a high-intensity UB lamp for mine and it clear them up in a day and a half.


"Raw" is not an acronym, abbreviation, nor a proper noun; thus, it should not be in capital letters.

  
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killwilly
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Jun 02, 2011 01:54 as a reply to  @ Tony-S's post |  #2152

I also read an article which said. When placing a lens in bright sunlight to clear yellowing. You should wrap the outside of the lens in baking foil or similar to reflect any heat and prevent any oil/grease in the lens from melting. Not quite sure whether it would get that hot, but prevention is better than ruining a decent lens. :)


Alan. flickr (external link)
---------------
Canon 7D. Canon 15-85 EF-S Lens. Canon 55-250 EF-S Lens. Speedlite 430ex 11.
Canon EOS-M. Canon 18-55 EF-M Lens. Speedlite 90EX.
Sigma APO 150-500mm F5-6.3 DG OS HSM.

  
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Waleriy
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Jun 02, 2011 03:55 |  #2153

TijmenDal wrote in post #12516009 (external link)
Can't wait to use it!

adapter already bought? ;)
Helios 44-2 (58/2), F8

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F8 + Marumi DHG (+5)
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professoryeti
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Jun 02, 2011 08:40 |  #2154

A series from the morning in between my two bachelor parties. Thomas, in the first photo, got kicked in the head by a guy who was fighting with a lesbian pimp. It really was everything we hoped it would be. Shot with Zuiko 28mm f/3.5

IMAGE: http://www.joshnibertphotography.com/Life/Bachelor-Party-Portraits/i-j6mZddH/0/L/MG8047-L.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.joshnibertp​hotography.com …v#1314099511_j6​mZddH-A-LB  (external link)

IMAGE: http://www.joshnibertphotography.com/Life/Bachelor-Party-Portraits/i-D74DG5x/0/L/MG8050-L.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.joshnibertp​hotography.com …v#1314095242_D7​4DG5x-A-LB  (external link)

IMAGE: http://www.joshnibertphotography.com/Life/Bachelor-Party-Portraits/i-mvjsxvn/0/L/MG8051-L.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.joshnibertp​hotography.com …v#1314090518_mv​jsxvn-A-LB  (external link)

Saturnalia for all you have.
5D Mark II | 5D | 24mm f/1.4L II | 35mm f/1.4L | Nikkor 50mm f/1.2 | Canon 100mm f/2.8L | 24-105mm f/4L | 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II |
JoshNibertPhotography.​com (external link)
Facebook (external link)

  
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advaitin
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Jun 02, 2011 12:47 |  #2155

My it's been a while since I posted here. How the thread has grown.

1D3 and Leitz 500mm MR Butterfly.
7d and leitz Cardinal


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Canons to the left, Canons to the right,
We hold our L glass toward the light,
Digitizing in a snap reflective glory
That will forever tell our imaged story.

  
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darosk
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Jun 02, 2011 19:14 as a reply to  @ advaitin's post |  #2156

I went to explore a local park the other day. All shot on SMC Takumar 1.8/55 on a 5DII.

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They had a cool looking historical house on the grounds:

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Tumblr (external link) | Facebook (external link) | Youtube (external link)
Gear

  
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kitacanon
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Jun 02, 2011 21:40 |  #2157

I love these guys...85mm Nikkor-H on the 40D

IMAGE: http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/3676/dkysb801cc.jpg

My Canon kit 450D/s90; Canon lenses 18-55 IS, 70-210/3.5-4.5....Nikon kit: D610; 28-105/3.5-4.5, 75-300/4.5-5.6 AF, 50/1.8D Nikkors, Tamron 80-210; MF Nikkors: 50/2K, 50/1.4 AI-S, 50/1.8 SeriesE, 60/2.8 Micro Nikkor (AF locked), 85mm/1.8K-AI, 105/2.5 AIS/P.C, 135/2.8K/Q.C, 180/2.8 ED, 200/4Q/AIS, 300/4.5H-AI, ++ Tamron 70-210/3.8-4, Vivitar/Kiron 28/2, ser.1 70-210/3.5, ser.1 28-90; Vivitar/Komine and Samyang 28/2.8; 35mm Nikon F/FM/FE2, Rebel 2K...HTC RE UWA camera

  
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kjj512
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Jun 02, 2011 21:40 |  #2158

C/Y CZ 50mm f/1.4 @ 1.4 for ~10 photos

IMAGE: http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3009/5791806389_23a3a8ec12_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …kevinjohnsrud/5​791806389/  (external link)
woods_c (external link) by SubtleTRex (external link), on Flickr

Kevin
flickr (external link) | vimeo (external link)
5D MKii | Contax CZ 135mm f/2.8 Sonnar*T | Contax CZ 50mm f/1.4 Planar*T | CZ Flektogon 35mm f/2.4 | Olympus Zuiko 24mm f/2.8
AE-1 and a bunch of fd lenses

  
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reappear
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Jun 03, 2011 06:32 |  #2159

Here's my pic with C/Y Zeiss 50mm f/1.7 @ f/5.6. I had done a shoot-out with compared to Tamron 17-50mm non-VC but it failed because I failed to have the same focus with Tamron :/ It was just a bit off. Circular polarizer used.

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big.pic.fi (external link)

  
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daveyboi
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Jun 03, 2011 20:22 |  #2160

my zeiss jena 50mm 1.8 just arrived today.
*my only test subjects that will stay still

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5D Mark II // 17-40L SOLD:cry: // 24-70L // 70-200 F/2.8 IS II L SOLD:cry: // 50 f/1.8
Instagram: the_davebot
Welcoming myself back to photography

  
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