joruiz wrote in post #7365393
I think the original photo looks better, but it's underexposed. If he exposed correctly for the light he had available ...
Ok. I'm going to reply to this and then un-subscribe from MY OWN THREAD because some can not wrap their heads around the use of HDR that does not fit the basic look that people expect to see in an HDR image.
I will lay this out REALLY simply so all can see the reasoning for shooting this the way it was.
The Problem: I need to reproduce summertime, low-horizon light conditions with limited space and lighting.
Test shots concluded that:
- The camera is mounted on a weighted tripod 8' off of the ground with shutter release attached.
- This is to provide as much of the models figure in the frame and not just have her taking up the center 1/3 as it would have been if shot from ground level.
- A ladder was used to reach the camera at that height.
- The ladders feet are at the max distance from the model and against an immovable object.
- I have my Tokina 100mm f/2.8 Macro AT-X PRO D attached to my 5D
- This is my best lens and the only one that has a max aperture of 2.8.
- I need all the light I can bring in to keep shutter speeds up.
- This lens costs $300.00 and is NOT 'L' quality glass.
- The image is supposed to look like summer morning/evening at the beach - not mid-day.
- That means that the sun in lower on the horizon casting light onto the underside of the umbrella.
- The sun is very bright.
- The brighter and larger the light source is, the less harsh shadow it casts.
- This is shot in my garage/studio.
- The outside temperature was 42° +/- 2°
- The temp in the garage was just under 54° - the model/client was cold and shivering some.
- The final print will be 12'x18' so the image HAD to be sharp.
- A higher shutter speed had to be used to reduce the possibility for blur.
- This was shot at 100mm, meaning I had to be 12'-15' from the scene to get it all in frame.
- The greater the distance from the focal point of the scene the more likely motion can be an issue in sharpness.
- I have a total of 2000 hot-light watts that I can 'throw' at the scene.
- 1000 watts of that light are affixed to the ceiling and can not be lowered - only directed.
- Those lights are 3 feet in front of the models feet and 9' feet up.
- The umbrella in the BG is 8' wide.
- The garage it 9' wide.
- The light from the upper lights do not shine under the umbrella and only on the model.
- The second light is a 1000 watt medium photoflex starlight softbox set an floor level and shooting directly at the scene from center.
- This light is 5' from the models feet to keep it out of frame.
for the shot to be illuminated correctly with the above setup, without the creation of dark areas and unacceptable shadows, no combination of shutter and aperture was feasible.The Solution: Shoot the image as a three image -2,0,+2 HDR, thus reducing the amount of light required to illuminate the underside of the umbrella, reducing shadows and increasing the available shutter speed to a high enough point as to remove blur.The Result: The highest dynamic range of the scene, as provided by the illumination from the above lighting setup, and as captured by all three images, provides enough mid-level lighting as to defeat the shadow issue while providing proper brightness to the hat and also allowing for the darker sections to remain that - dark.
... Continuation to follow ...