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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EF and EF-S Lenses 
Thread started 13 Feb 2009 (Friday) 20:10
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Something to help me make my kid POP on a Crop?

 
blssdwlf
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Feb 13, 2009 22:28 |  #16

@RPCrowe - Thank you very much for the reference links and tutorials!

@Robonrome - my first thought is it looks more like a lighting or post-processing or distance between subject and background question rather than a lens issue from your two sample shots about the lack of "pop". But I don't shoot portraiture so I'm very interested in seeing everyone's comments too as this is an interesting thread :)


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mai_lin
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Feb 13, 2009 22:29 as a reply to  @ blssdwlf's post |  #17

The color is off in the first 1 and the lighting is flat and #2 is actually pretty good - some contrast bump in PS would make it really pop.


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tkbslc
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Feb 13, 2009 22:30 |  #18

Those two are in the 60-90mm range at F4. You may try your 50mm and 100mm primes at F2.8 to see how an extra stop works. The 50mm 1.8 is really a sharp lens at f2.8+ and the 100mm macro is sharp wide open. Both of those would work for what you are trying to do here.

Other than that, the 85mm 1.8 would fit in perfectly here, I would just hate for you to waste your money if you can make the others work.


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bohdank
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Feb 13, 2009 22:31 |  #19

If you can't control your backround, then get the 85/1.8... anyone who says it is too long for indoor "portraits" probably doesn't have one or doesn't shoot indoor portraits. The 50mm, imho, is too short. You can almost shake the subjects hand if shooting a head shot. Being that close is too intimidating even if it's your own kids and is not as flattering as an 85 or a 100/135 (if you have the room). The result is, basically, shots that just don't look "good", imo. I am limiting my opinions to portraits, btw.

If you can control the backround, have additional lighting then you already have what you need in the 24-105. I use my Tamron 28-75 at or close to 75 for indoor controlled situations 95% of the time and almost never more wide open than f5.6. The 85 comes in when I want those extra shots, when I'm done, with shallow DOF etc.

For outdoor portraits, I use up to 200mm.

And lighting is everything.


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DDCSD
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Feb 13, 2009 22:43 |  #20

robonrome wrote in post #7321681 (external link)
Thanks for your detailed response. I must update my gear list as I do have a 580ex flash (and it is great). I agree and am not expecting any lens to be magical and that it is skill that counts. That said, I'm looking for a faster lens in the a good portrait range for crop. I've attached a couple of shots of my son using the 24-105 to give an idea of the sort of scale I like to shoot.

I like these shots but feel a faster lens would help with that "POP" factor.


If you turn on "Image Editing OK" in your profile I can show you a very quick LR edit on your first image from a complete editing hack (me).


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robonrome
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Feb 13, 2009 22:47 |  #21

DDCSD wrote in post #7321800 (external link)
If you turn on "Image Editing OK" in your profile I can show you a very quick LR edit on your first image from a complete editing hack (me).

Thanks very much Derek...I've made the change (actually didn't know I had that set to "no") so go to it!:D


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DDCSD
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Feb 13, 2009 22:52 |  #22

robonrome wrote in post #7321824 (external link)
Thanks very much Derek...I've made the change (actually didn't know I had that set to "no") so go to it!:D

I figured as much, but some people get seriously mad when you edit an image of theirs and post it, so I always be sure to ask.

This seriously took me about 1 minute in LR. You can obviously suit the image to your tastes. This edit is a bit more extreme than I would usually go with one of my images. I am so in love with this program.

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robonrome
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Feb 13, 2009 23:20 |  #23

DDCSD wrote in post #7321844 (external link)
I figured as much, but some people get seriously mad when you edit an image of theirs and post it, so I always be sure to ask.

This seriously took me about 1 minute in LR. You can obviously suit the image to your tastes. This edit is a bit more extreme than I would usually go with one of my images. I am so in love with this program.

Wow, thanks Derek, that certainly has more pop. Probably for my tastes a slight step back the other direction - e.g. not "pushed" as far - but a definite improvement.

I actually had another one from the same shoot which I'd tried to processed similarly or at least for this effect... alsoI was trying to get that slightly over-exposed face thing happening, but doesn't have the "bite: of what you've done here - see below.

So what did you do?

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cdifoto
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Feb 13, 2009 23:27 |  #24

USM 20/50/0


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HOSTED PHOTO DISPLAY FAILED: ATTACH id 342220 does not exist. ]


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DDCSD
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Feb 13, 2009 23:31 |  #25

robonrome wrote in post #7321988 (external link)
So what did you do?


All of this is in LR 2.2.

I simply used "auto tone". I click this first to see what it gives me. I usually don't like the result of this, but in this case I thought it looked pretty good so I went from there.

From there it was a simple quick slider adjustment. I literally just pulled them over a bit and they looked pretty good. There was no real method, I just winged it.

contrast +41
clarity +33
vibrance +31
sharpening +36 with a radius of 1.0 and detail of 25

From there I applied the "Seim Effects Dark Vignette" pre-set. I think all this did was a lens correction of -100 and a midpoint of 20. If you Google Seim you'll find some nice free Lightroom pre-sets.

I hate doing extensive PP work, so LR with some pre-sets is perfect for me. I don't like spending more than 5 minutes fooling with an image.


Download the Lightroom trial, it makes processing photos like this a snap. You had a great image to start with, it just needed a little push.


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robonrome
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Feb 13, 2009 23:57 |  #26

Thanks again Derek , some great tips there!
I like the reprocess cdifoto has done too, reckon halfway between that and yours would be about perfect for me :-)


rob - check my galleries at http://hardlightimages​.zenfolio.com/ (external link)
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robonrome
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Feb 13, 2009 23:58 |  #27

Oh, and I'll look at the Lightroom trial. How does it compare to something like Photoshop CS3?


rob - check my galleries at http://hardlightimages​.zenfolio.com/ (external link)
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DDCSD
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Feb 14, 2009 08:10 |  #28

robonrome wrote in post #7322154 (external link)
Thanks again Derek , some great tips there!
I like the reprocess cdifoto has done too, reckon halfway between that and yours would be about perfect for me :-)

Also, I think all that auto tone did was bump the exposure up +.70

robonrome wrote in post #7322158 (external link)
Oh, and I'll look at the Lightroom trial. How does it compare to something like Photoshop CS3?


They are really very different programs. Lightroom is more of a developers tool with a great image library management system while CS3 is more of an editing program. I do more adjusting with my images than I do actual editing. For my uses, Lightroom combined with Photoshop Elements is perfect. I also have CS2, but I pretty much never use it.


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TaDa
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Feb 14, 2009 08:19 |  #29

I'll jump on the post processing bandwagon. All images need to be processed.

I agree with DDCSD, they're very different programs. I use both.

I use Lightroom for all of my images. It has a great cataloging system and is awesome at batch processing a bunch of pictures at once. If I need to do something really in depth to an image (skin smoothing, selective coloring, whatever) then that is when I jump to Photoshop CS3. Where I can spend 30 minutes in Lightroom batch processing 200 images with minor individual adjustments, I can spend 2 hours on a single image in Photoshop and still not be done with it.


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blssdwlf
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Feb 14, 2009 10:32 as a reply to  @ TaDa's post |  #30

Hi Robonrome,

One thing I noticed is that you are saving in Adobe RGB (aRGB) color space. A very important thing to remember is that aRGB will look washed out and muted if viewed by a program that isn't colorspace aware. So unless you are looking at it in Bridge or Photoshop its gonna look kinda blah. Windows machines and most web browsers default to sRGB and will try to convert what it can from aRGB over, usually with not so good results. Another thing to look out for is if your monitor is calibrated. It is difficult to get good results if your monitor isn't accurate :)

I also took a shot also at post-processing. It ended up looking very close to DDSCD. In Photoshop CS2, simple Levels adjustment layer (moved white point so I started to clip a little on the shoulder, moved black point so it clipped on the dark area in the hair) and Curves adjustment layer (anchored the middle, slight up in the highs and a little more drop in the lows).

With CS3 you could open the photo up in ACR editor (via Bridge) and move your Exposure slider (white point) to the right until you start clipping the shoulder and the Blacks slider (black point) to the right until the hair starts to clip. Then increase the Contrast by moving the Contrast slider to perhaps 40 or so.


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