Manual focus and manual exposure. Know the Sunny F/16 rule by heart.
gasrocks Cream of the Crop 13,432 posts Likes: 2 Joined Mar 2005 Location: Portage, Wisconsin USA More info | Oct 09, 2009 13:42 | #301 Manual focus and manual exposure. Know the Sunny F/16 rule by heart. GEAR LIST
LOG IN TO REPLY |
Oct 09, 2009 14:45 | #302 Thnx, gas.
LOG IN TO REPLY |
gasrocks Cream of the Crop 13,432 posts Likes: 2 Joined Mar 2005 Location: Portage, Wisconsin USA More info | Oct 09, 2009 15:43 | #303 Between having a live Histogram, another histogram in review mode, knowledge of the Sunny f/16 rule, exposure compensation, a spot meter and much experience - I find it hard to see how anyone gets the wrong exposure. Ok, you are new to this, something takes you by suprize, I can see problems. GEAR LIST
LOG IN TO REPLY |
MichaelBernard Goldmember 3,586 posts Joined Jun 2007 Location: Dallas, TX More info | Oct 09, 2009 15:50 | #304 Permanent bangasrocks wrote in post #8791597 Manual focus and manual exposure. Know the Sunny F/16 rule by heart. Wait....there are rules?!?!? http://www.Michael-Bernard.com
LOG IN TO REPLY |
MichaelBernard Goldmember 3,586 posts Joined Jun 2007 Location: Dallas, TX More info | Oct 09, 2009 15:52 | #305 Permanent banFuzzmuffin wrote in post #8791454 Hey folks, Anybody using their manual focus lenses for "street" photography? If anyone does, how do you meter to prevent burned out highlights? Do you set the camera on aperture priority and underexpose by .3 stop, or something? Do you use evaluative metering? Some of these manual focus lenses can cause the meter to overexpose by up to one stop or more at certain f-stops; a bit of a pain. I've been experimenting with taking an initial reading and then setting the camera to that reading and vary shutter speed only if the light changes. I don't like checking the LCD on the street. Anyway, if anybody has any tips to share I'd be very grateful as I'm new to street shooting. Thnx. Honestly you will get to learn whether a particular lens over or under exposes. My 50mm f1/4 likes to under expose by a stop..my 80-200mm f/3.5 likes to under expose by half a stop. My 135mm f/3.5 likes it just right in the middle http://www.Michael-Bernard.com
LOG IN TO REPLY |
binlerne Senior Member 870 posts Joined Feb 2008 Location: San Diego, CA More info | Oct 09, 2009 15:57 | #306 Audible is right, my Pentax 50mm underexposes by 2/3 stop and my 70-200 overexposes by one stop. You just have to practice with the lenses and try different expsoures. As gasrocks said, the histogram is your friend.
LOG IN TO REPLY |
darosk Goldmember 2,806 posts Likes: 4 Joined Oct 2007 Location: Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, Malaysia More info | Oct 09, 2009 17:12 | #307 |
Oct 09, 2009 19:36 | #308 For the record, the lens doesn't over or under expose...it's the light meter that reads that...hence gasrock's suggestion of relying less on the techology and more on your own reading of light...in that meter between your ears.... My Canon kit 450D/s90; Canon lenses 18-55 IS, 70-210/3.5-4.5....Nikon kit: D610; 28-105/3.5-4.5, 75-300/4.5-5.6 AF, 50/1.8D Nikkors, Tamron 80-210; MF Nikkors: 50/2K, 50/1.4 AI-S, 50/1.8 SeriesE, 60/2.8 Micro Nikkor (AF locked), 85mm/1.8K-AI, 105/2.5 AIS/P.C, 135/2.8K/Q.C, 180/2.8 ED, 200/4Q/AIS, 300/4.5H-AI, ++ Tamron 70-210/3.8-4, Vivitar/Kiron 28/2, ser.1 70-210/3.5, ser.1 28-90; Vivitar/Komine and Samyang 28/2.8; 35mm Nikon F/FM/FE2, Rebel 2K...HTC RE UWA camera
LOG IN TO REPLY |
Ya, I'd prefer not having to look at the LCD much while out there. Sunny f16 works very well with b&w negative film but I'm a little cautious about using it with a digital camera re: likelihood of burning out highlights. Michael Reichmann and some others using digital cameras for street photography actually recommend full auto-everything. The only problem is that the exposure variability thing with the manual lenses throws a bit of a spanner in the works. Anyway, I'm sure it'll be okay when I get to it. Oh, I'll be zone focusing. Thnx everybody for the tips.
LOG IN TO REPLY |
gkarris Goldmember 1,882 posts Joined Jun 2009 More info | Oct 09, 2009 20:29 | #310 Yes, they're on that little piece of paper you got with each roll of film!
LOG IN TO REPLY |
binlerne Senior Member 870 posts Joined Feb 2008 Location: San Diego, CA More info | Oct 09, 2009 20:32 | #311 I've been trying to decide on a 85mm but there are so many of them. Argh!
LOG IN TO REPLY |
MichaelBernard Goldmember 3,586 posts Joined Jun 2007 Location: Dallas, TX More info | Oct 10, 2009 08:33 | #312 Permanent bankitacanon wrote in post #8793274 For the record, the lens doesn't over or under expose...it's the light meter that reads that...hence gasrock's suggestion of relying less on the techology and more on your own reading of light...in that meter between your ears.... Always someone that HAS to be right http://www.Michael-Bernard.com
LOG IN TO REPLY |
Oct 10, 2009 09:57 | #313 AudibleSilence wrote in post #8795516 Always someone that HAS to be right .. I think we all understood that bud, the point is that the meter will read about the same way depending on what glass it is metering for. I.E. My meter acts a certain way for my 55mm vs. my 135mm vs. my 80-200mm. You're normally fine if you read the meter before each shot like you should.I wasn't meaning to be a wise-A...it's just that I've read posts occasionally where people think different lenses are metering different at the same F-stop My Canon kit 450D/s90; Canon lenses 18-55 IS, 70-210/3.5-4.5....Nikon kit: D610; 28-105/3.5-4.5, 75-300/4.5-5.6 AF, 50/1.8D Nikkors, Tamron 80-210; MF Nikkors: 50/2K, 50/1.4 AI-S, 50/1.8 SeriesE, 60/2.8 Micro Nikkor (AF locked), 85mm/1.8K-AI, 105/2.5 AIS/P.C, 135/2.8K/Q.C, 180/2.8 ED, 200/4Q/AIS, 300/4.5H-AI, ++ Tamron 70-210/3.8-4, Vivitar/Kiron 28/2, ser.1 70-210/3.5, ser.1 28-90; Vivitar/Komine and Samyang 28/2.8; 35mm Nikon F/FM/FE2, Rebel 2K...HTC RE UWA camera
LOG IN TO REPLY |
maxblack I feel like I'm in danger 2,052 posts Likes: 320 Joined Sep 2008 Location: NYC Area More info | Oct 10, 2009 12:01 | #314 I think the reason people run into overexposure issues on manual focus lenses is because modern dslr exposure meters weren't meant to read apertures that are "physically" stopped down with adapters.
LOG IN TO REPLY |
scotch Goldmember 1,516 posts Joined Oct 2007 More info | Oct 10, 2009 12:11 | #315 I set out to investigate this once, maxblack. I have found that my camera (5D, YMMV) meters 'live' - in fitting with its 'TTL' metering system. The aperture report from the adapter just permanently reads 1.8/2.0 depending on adapter...no funny exposure issues here.
LOG IN TO REPLY |
![]() | x 1600 |
| y 1600 |
| Log in Not a member yet?
Register to forums
Registered members may log in to forums and access all the features: full search, image upload, follow forums, own gear list and ratings, likes, more forums, private messaging, thread follow, notifications, own gallery, all settings, view hosted photos, own reviews, see more and do more... and all is free. Don't be a stranger - register now and start posting!
|
| ||
| Latest registered member is IoDaLi Photography 1677 guests, 137 members online Simultaneous users record so far is 15,144, that happened on Nov 22, 2018 | |||