Post Your Favorite "Off Camera Hot Shoe Flash" Shots

Vineet666 wrote in post #8529690
Thanks Cobra and Gonzo! It makes perfect sense now. So basically if I put the camera in manual after taking the ambient exposure I desire (say of the background), the flash will automatically add enough light for the foreground/subject through ettl. So, tell me something guys - isn't it wiser in that case, to use the maximum aperture your lens can afford - say 2.8, so that the flash does not drain all its power and suck in too much battery. I know it also depends on the max sync speed, but with ettl you can always use HSS. But again, using HSS will suck in more battery I guess? What's the perfect setting in your opinion as far as meter reading is concerned when shooting say at a Beach?

Yep sounds like you have it all figured out now. I set my aperture depending on how much of the background detail I want in the shot and don't worry about batteries, a set of batteries usually last me at least 2 shoots anyway but I do always have extras in my bag just in case. I will add that with smaller apertures HSS becomes much less useful, which has me seriously considering picking up an alienbee.

enginyr wrote in post #8530459
inconsistent to say the least. Mainly jut not being able to JUST SHOOT. Always worrying about being in the line of site of the infrared speed lights and never knowing if it will over/under expose with flash. Don't get me wrong, ettl is great for event shooting but throw that out the window in a controlled environment.

I got the Jrx system with studio output for alien bees from radio popper

I agree the IR system is a pain to work with, the new PW's seem to be working good for me and are a huge improvement as long as you understand the RF interference issues that come with them.

In a studio environment full manual is definitely the way to go, but for on location shooting where the lighting changes constantly ETTL is the winner for me.

Thanks Pham I will try again. I want to get it right in camera than have to save it with pp.

Vineet666 wrote in post #8529690
Thanks Cobra and Gonzo! It makes perfect sense now. So basically if I put the camera in manual after taking the ambient exposure I desire (say of the background), the flash will automatically add enough light for the foreground/subject through ettl. So, tell me something guys - isn't it wiser in that case, to use the maximum aperture your lens can afford - say 2.8, so that the flash does not drain all its power and suck in too much battery. I know it also depends on the max sync speed, but with ettl you can always use HSS. But again, using HSS will suck in more battery I guess? What's the perfect setting in your opinion as far as meter reading is concerned when shooting say at a Beach?

First of all set your aperture where you want it for creative reasons, not to save battery power unless you have some critical power concerns pop up. You can always bring more batteries, you cant add more depth of field later... HSS is nice, it gives you some options that you dont have without it, but battery conservation is probably not a consideration when using it.

here is another...of yours truly.

bminear wrote in post #8532399
here is another...of yours truly.


B800 on boom above
430ex camera right as rim
sb-24 (or 540ex dont remember which) camera left as rim.

that is so cool.. the blur.. the side kicker..

phamster

gonzogolf wrote in post #8531820
First of all set your aperture where you want it for creative reasons, not to save battery power unless you have some critical power concerns pop up. You can always bring more batteries, you cant add more depth of field later... HSS is nice, it gives you some options that you dont have without it, but battery conservation is probably not a consideration when using it.

i agree..

remember these 2 rules.. and you will have off camera flash down

1. aperature controls flash power or subject lighting
2. shutter speeds control ambient lighting.

and ISO controls both - sensitivity to the sensor

and if you work in manual with manual triggers.. your shutter speeds are limited to 1/200ish..

control your lighting by lowering the power, or moving the light source closer or farther away..

in the end.. i just practiced on my lamp shade in the middle of my living room to see what all "WHAT i said" does.. i spent hours in there and snapped lots of shots to study the effect when i was first learning off camera flash..

do your homework..

master manual

and then incorporate it into portraiture photos.. the skies the limit..

then after that.. it is art from that point..

PM me if you have questions..

phamster

enginyr wrote in post #8530459
inconsistent to say the least. Mainly jut not being able to JUST SHOOT. Always worrying about being in the line of site of the infrared speed lights and never knowing if it will over/under expose with flash. Don't get me wrong, ettl is great for event shooting but throw that out the window in a controlled environment.

I got the Jrx system with studio output for alien bees from radio popper

Yeah cool right! They responded to my e-mail and said they all work in conjunction, px with jrx strobes with bees etc np

bminear wrote in post #8532399
here is another...of yours truly.

B800 on boom above
430ex camera right as rim
sb-24 (or 540ex dont remember which) camera left as rim.

Nice!

A quick note. When using flash, it is true that the shutter speed controls the ambient, but the aperture actually controls BOTH flash and ambient. If you're flash is a stop too bright, you can make that adjustment on camera via f stop, but you will most likely see a change in the ambient as well -- the stopping down of the aperture will cut the available ambient light. Make the reciprocal adjustment in SS, and you are good to go again.

Just sayin......

I have the 580 EXII, want to be able to use Ettl and go wireless will the cactus triggers do this for me? Thanks for all the helpful info and great photos.

Hey all, heres a couple from last weekend.......

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mattograph wrote in post #8535700
A quick note. When using flash, it is true that the shutter speed controls the ambient, but the aperture actually controls BOTH flash and ambient. If you're flash is a stop too bright, you can make that adjustment on camera via f stop, but you will most likely see a change in the ambient as well -- the stopping down of the aperture will cut the available ambient light. Make the reciprocal adjustment in SS, and you are good to go again.

Just sayin......

Thank you...you've just clarified an area I've had difficulty understanding.
What you say is common sense, but all the resources I use hammer home 'Shutter speed controlsd the ambient, f stop controls the Flash.
I knew it couldn't be as simplistic as that, theyre all closely inter-related.

bachscuttler wrote in post #8536938
Thank you...you've just clarified an area I've had difficulty understanding.
What you say is common snes, but all the resources I use hammer home 'Shutter speed controlsd the ambient, f stop controls the Flash.
I knew it couldn't be as simplistic as that, theyre all closely inter-related.

while what Matt has stated is true..

when working with shutter speed @ 200 or below and speed lites keeping your fstop around 2-8... the general rule that i have stated does apply.

the shutter speeds controls ambient light is still a valid statement..

i have not notice much difference in ambient light when i move the fstop around ( 3-7 ) and keep the shutter speeds the same..

what i do notice is when i bump ISO around.. then the whole scene is change and you have to find new numbers..

Matto is correct.. but i wanted to state the 2 main rules for those who haven't worked with flash and ambient and where to start.

from last nights double senior shoot