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Thread started 27 Feb 2009 (Friday) 22:12
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Post Your Favorite "Off Camera Hot Shoe Flash" Shots

 
imahawki
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Apr 02, 2009 12:36 |  #286

When you are doing off camera flash, what settings do you use? ETTL doesn't work with radio triggers right? How are you getting the right exposure?


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GenuineRolla
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Apr 02, 2009 12:43 |  #287

The f/stop and ISO control the flash exposure.


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markhyo
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Apr 02, 2009 12:50 as a reply to  @ imahawki's post |  #288

@ imahawki...You're right E-TTL doesn't work with standard radio triggers. However, new triggers like Radiopoppers and the new pocketwizards are changing that. I determine my exposure by either using my trusty light meter or by calculating the flash manually. Calculating the flash is really not that hard as most people think. Some people just chimp until they get it right but I like my results to be spot on without a lot of wasted time. Many older flashes like the Vivitar 285HV and Sunpak 383 have a calculators built into them to help you get the correct exposure. They basically work like this:

Know your distance (flash to the subject), power of the flash, and ISO to get the f/stop

or

Know your f/stop, power of the flash, and ISO to get your distance (flash to the subject)

or

Know your f/stop, ISO, and distance (flash to the subject) to get the power of the flash.

So basically if you know three parts of the equation the calculator will help you find the last part.


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imahawki
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Apr 02, 2009 13:23 |  #289

So lets say I'm at F/4, ISO 100 and my I have one flash unit at 3/4 angle to the model, 6 feet away. What would be my flash power? And, how would you adjust if you're using a modifier?

Maybe I should start a new thread.


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shimmishim
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Apr 02, 2009 13:28 |  #290

^ that's going to depend on your flash. 1/2 power on one flash is not equal to the output of 1/2 power on another. studio strobes will put out more than speedlites.


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markhyo
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Apr 02, 2009 13:41 |  #291

imahawki wrote in post #7652735 (external link)
So lets say I'm at F/4, ISO 100 and my I have one flash unit at 3/4 angle to the model, 6 feet away. What would be my flash power? And, how would you adjust if you're using a modifier?

Maybe I should start a new thread.

As shimmishim said it all depends on your flash. This may also be a question you may want to ask in the Flash forum.

Here's a link of a video I did showing how to calculate flash on a Vivitar 285HV for example: http://www.youtube.com …1dhU&feature=ch​annel_page (external link)


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tonyr0584
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Apr 02, 2009 16:29 |  #292

imahawki wrote in post #7652431 (external link)
When you are doing off camera flash, what settings do you use? ETTL doesn't work with radio triggers right? How are you getting the right exposure?

Hi imahawki, when we shoot ocf (most of our shots) we shoot in eTTL. Radio Poppers work great with eTTL... that was their design. The new Pocket Wizards work with eTTL as well.... As for exposure.... we let TTL do its work initially and then adjust.


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bminear
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Apr 02, 2009 20:09 |  #293

trailblazer wrote in post #7652359 (external link)
I was looking around at some ND filters and I was checking the Singh Ray filter Vari-N-Duo because I wanted a CPL and I wanted an ND filter for exactly what you are using it for in this example.
Which ND filter are you using?

honestly i have no idea. its a cheap one i got on ebay, but it works pretty well. im a college student, and cant really afford spending the extra cash on little things like that......someday! lol

markhyo wrote in post #7652397 (external link)
Bminear... Nice work! I sometimes use ND Filters to get a more shallow DOF. Depending oh how you balance the flash with the ambient will determine how prevalent the flash will be in the pics. I like your second shot but I think the light is a bit too hot on the left side of the face. The fishing pole kind of gets lost in the tree behind the subject. I think would have positioned the subject so the tree coming out of the subjects head. Of course sometimes you just don't catch this stuff until after the fact. Keep up the good work!

and yes the flash is a little hot, but for good reason. i wasnt even taking portrait type shots of him, i was mainly shooting him fishing from other angles, but i moved just to see what the lights would do from a different position, and told him to turn and snapped one just as a test. (did i mention i was shooting one handed whilst fighting a horrible bush to my right out of the frame?) well anyway, i wasnt too impressed with it after taking a look at the lcd so i didnt bother with it, but lo and behold, i get home and i thought it looked so much better on a computer screen. so anyway, i think a reshoot is in order. thanks for the crit though! much appreciated!


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phamster
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Apr 02, 2009 22:10 |  #294

@ imahawki
you are going to have to practice with an object.. that is what i did..

learn what Fstop, shuttler, ISO, Flash Power, Distance of Flash from subject all do..

http://www.strobist.bl​ogspot.com/ (external link)

is a good source of info

and not to make this post with out photos..

"stary stary night in indiana.." ha ha ha..

here is my wescott apollo.. it does a good job on location, but you have to somebody hold it down if it is at all windy..

580 on 1/4 power. about 5-6feet away, magic numbers were:1/125, @F 3.5

IMAGE: http://i44.tinypic.com/2renl2h.jpg
IMAGE: http://i39.tinypic.com/sm9jee.jpg
IMAGE: http://i39.tinypic.com/1rzr4h.jpg
IMAGE: http://i39.tinypic.com/67pgs6.jpg

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trailblazer
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Apr 03, 2009 04:01 |  #295

^^
Looks great man!
Sunset makes an awesome backdrop.

Do you meter for the sky (left or right of the sun), then underexpose by 1-2 stops and then bring in the strobe?
Most people seem to use 6 feet from the subject at 1/4 power as a starting point. I was listening to Zack say "you have to start somewhere" but usually when I take my first shot, everything looks white :D lol.

Is that your standard starting point?




  
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shimmishim
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Apr 03, 2009 08:02 |  #296

trailblazer wrote in post #7657758 (external link)
^^
Looks great man!
Sunset makes an awesome backdrop.

Do you meter for the sky (left or right of the sun), then underexpose by 1-2 stops and then bring in the strobe?
Most people seem to use 6 feet from the subject at 1/4 power as a starting point. I was listening to Zack say "you have to start somewhere" but usually when I take my first shot, everything looks white :D lol.

Is that your standard starting point?

I always start at ISO100 and 1/4 power and f/4 and then adjust my aperture to get my flash exposure then i'll adjust the shutter speed to either pull more ambient or kill it all together.


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tonyr0584
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Apr 03, 2009 08:10 |  #297

Phamster.... I really like the second and last shots..... good pullback shot as well.


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markhyo
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Apr 03, 2009 08:59 |  #298

tonyr0584 wrote in post #7657881 (external link)
Phamster.... I really like the second and last shots..... good pullback shot as well.

I agree but I think the last shot really stands out. Great work!


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bminear
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Apr 03, 2009 09:38 |  #299

@ phamster you just sold me on a softbox. can i ask how you have it setup over your 580 ex? i have seen alot of DIY softbox adapters for speedlights, like mounting to a speedring, and one on strobist that uses bongo ties to a speedring. whats your setup?


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markhyo
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Apr 03, 2009 09:55 |  #300

bminear wrote in post #7658509 (external link)
@ phamster you just sold me on a softbox. can i ask how you have it setup over your 580 ex? i have seen alot of DIY softbox adapters for speedlights, like mounting to a speedring, and one on strobist that uses bongo ties to a speedring. whats your setup?

I got your answer right here! I use the same softbox for some setups. It's a 28" Westcott Apollo. It's basically an umbrella style softbox that works with any standard umbrella bracket. Here's a pic of how a flash mounts inside it.

IMAGE: http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1192/1448545622_040045d5d5_o.jpg

and a pic of how the setup looks.

IMAGE: http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1370/1448545794_171965fabd.jpg

I really like using this softbox as well and it produces nice results.

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