Post Your Favorite "Off Camera Hot Shoe Flash" Shots

cupra_flo wrote in post #7690516
hey tony,
how do you get these colours in your images?!
Amazing

well the camera does the hard work but i think pop you see is from his pp technique.

shimmishim wrote in post #7690637
well the camera does the hard work but i think pop you see is from his pp technique.

i wanna have colors like that tooooooo
Please Help...

cupra_flo wrote in post #7690712
i wanna have colors like that tooooooo
Please Help...

i think he uses PPP methode.. i have seen it before from many members here.

PPP=( Proprietary Post Processing)

ha ha.. i don't think he will give it way.. that is what makes him unique.

it is like asking Kevin Jairaj of KJImages, hey what is the your post processing method? and can i have your actions?

http://www.kjimages.co​m/

tony might give it away, but i really doubt it.

phamster

cupra_flo wrote in post #7690306
Yes and if i´m right tony uses ST-E2 or the radio hopper...both support ettl

Actually I use two 580EX II flash units.... one mounted on camera, the other for the OCF. Yes, I do use Radio Poppers..... but in the last session the girl in the field... batteries got low in the Poppers and they misfired.... didn't have time to change the battery.... so simply used the IR built in on the flash units. This does the same thing.... the Poppers just turn the signal into wireless radio transmission basically. You do not have to have the Poppers to get the shots I took.

phamster wrote in post #7690880
tony might give it away, but i really doubt it.

Here you go....
To me the colors are a result of the following:
1> Look for good light..... got to have it!! and I don't mean good flash units.... I'm referring to using the sun or other available ambient light.
2> Most all my shots have the compensation set on camera to anywhere from -1 to -2 stops..... bring down the ambient and fill it back in with flash.
3> Levels or Curves adjustment in CS3

Thats the short of it..... yes I do have some scripts that run on all shots... but the pop comes everytime I perform the Levels or Curves adjustment. Keep in mind, I believe I have to have at least the #1 step performed for anything to fall together.

tonyr0584 wrote in post #7692270
Here you go....
To me the colors are a result of the following:
1> Look for good light..... got to have it!! and I don't mean good flash units.... I'm referring to using the sun or other available ambient light.
2> Most all my shots have the compensation set on camera to anywhere from -1 to -2 stops..... bring down the ambient and fill it back in with flash.
3> Levels or Curves adjustment in CS3

Thats the short of it..... yes I do have some scripts that run on all shots... but the pop comes everytime I perform the Levels or Curves adjustment. Keep in mind, I believe I have to have at least the #1 step performed for anything to fall together.

Tony,

First off thanks for starting this thread. There are a lot of great examples of using OCF and a lot of talent here!

I couldn't agree with you more that you must start with great lighting! I can't tell you how much I try to stress this to the guys and gals in my local photography club. I kind of did things backwards but I learned how to use flash, then off camera flash first. After I understood it what light was does and how to control it, my natural light photography became much better. Before I even take a shot whether I'm using flash or natural light I try to notice what the light is doing to the subject. Then I ask, "is this light making the subject look good or is it making them look bad?"

I think as photographers too many of us want to just get the shot (I'm guilty as well). We're so busy pressing the shutter that we forget to notice one of the most important things... the lighting! Without light photography would be impossible! I take a lot of time studying lighting in other people's pictures and painting. I ask many questions like "what's the direction of light?" or "how soft or how hard is it?" I have a list of things that run through my mind to dissect an image, but once I understand it I can usually recreate it.

To everyone (myself included) light is your friend but can be your enemy as well. Just remember this the next time you go out shooting and you'll start noticing big improvements in your work!

What I've noticed is that now that I am experimenting with light, I am now making the picture all about the light and not about the subject...
I am trying hard to break out of that as I seem to prefer lighting a subject where the photo isn't about calling attention to the fact that I am lighting the subject.

im trying to find a thread that is similar to this one but it had hundreds of pages more on off camera flash shots, it was called show us your best off camera flash thread or something, can anyone help me? i cant find it anywhere now and i was only looking at it last week

phamster wrote in post #7670610
Hinson,

the line of sight ST-E2 will not work since the flash is inside of the soft box (wescott)

my alzodigital 15 incher will work though.. the flash sits outside of the box so the line of sight is there and available.

phamster

That's what I thought. I'll check out the alzodigital unit.

very cool, i am guessing he is professional??

SenateDC wrote in post #7423520

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My only thing is I wish I had another light for the back light...

I love the combination of lighting and saturation you have achieved in the photos. It's the sort of effect I like to get myself.

here is a new one.. shot of the moon..

.8 second shutter speed, F 16, iso 3200...

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phamster wrote in post #7696976
here is a new one.. shot of the moon..

.8 second shutter speed, F 16, iso 3200...

Wow
Contrasting with all the daylight shots eh phamster
Question... how much power did you have to put out on the flash to get f/16?
I noticed you were at ISO 3200 which would have boosted both the flash and allowed for more background light.

trailblazer wrote in post #7697140
Wow
Contrasting with all the daylight shots eh phamster
Question... how much power did you have to put out on the flash to get f/16?
I noticed you were at ISO 3200 which would have boosted both the flash and allowed for more background light.

i had the 580 EX II in wescott Apollo, about 5 feet away, at 1/2 power.

we had little time to get the shot, the clouds Opened up only for about 2 mins..

i wanted the clouds in focus too, that is why the F16.. i could have lowered the power of the flash down to 1/16 or so, but that would have brought up my F stop number to about 5-7 and then the cloulds would have been blurred..

it is a different shot for me.. i kinda like it though..

@ Tony.

thanks for sharing your work and PP... in camera is the most important.. "start with a good file" this is so true..

phamster

A couple of shots taken last year for an engagement session. I was using a Vivitar 285HV Bare bulb, triggered by radio remotes.

markhyo wrote in post #7699696
A couple of shots taken last year for an engagement session. I was using a Vivitar 285HV Bare bulb, triggered by radio remotes.

nice, that dude, should be a model.. nice photos