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FORUMS Post Processing, Marketing & Presenting Photos HDR Creation 
Thread started 05 Apr 2009 (Sunday) 16:37
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Indoor HDR (3 pictures)

 
_GUI_
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Apr 05, 2009 16:37 |  #1

These high dynamic range scenes were captured with 3 shots, 2EV apart.
The blending of the RAW data was done through Zero Noise (external link).
The tone mapping was done manually with 2 curves usually (bright and contrast).

The goal was to capture the entire DR of the scene, eliminating any trace of noise and with a natural looking in mind. That is why higher luminance areas are clearly more luminous, although not blown.


IMAGE: http://www.guillermoluijk.com/tutorial/hdr/resultado8.jpg


IMAGE: http://www.guillermoluijk.com/tutorial/hdr/resultado10.jpg


IMAGE: http://www.guillermoluijk.com/tutorial/hdr/resultado9.jpg



BR

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bryan ­ k
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Apr 05, 2009 17:29 |  #2

Excellent captures- this is using the software you wrote?


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scotteisenphotography
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Apr 05, 2009 17:31 |  #3

awesome. Is your program in english too? I didn't really read enough through it...


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shutterbugcrazy
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Apr 05, 2009 17:48 |  #4

I can't read zero noise link but I'd sure like to have it.


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tcc
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Apr 05, 2009 17:52 |  #5

Wow, really like the staircase shot. What lens did you use?


Canon 7D w/grip & RRS L-plate | 100 f2.8 Macro | 10-22 f3.5-4.5 | 70-200L f2.8 IS | 24-70L f2.8 |
100-400L f4.5-5.6 | 28-105 f3.5-4.5 | 50 f1.8 | ZE 50 f1.4 | 055xProB | Acratech GV2 | flickr (external link)

  
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_GUI_
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Apr 05, 2009 18:44 |  #6

tcc wrote in post #7673401 (external link)
Wow, really like the staircase shot. What lens did you use?

I used Canon 350D + Canon 10-22 in all shots. In the staircase at 10mm if I am not wrong.

Thanks for your comments. I have to be clear about Zero Noise: this program is just a RAW blender. It summarizes all dynamic range found in several RAW files with two abilities:
1. Minimum noise (chosing high SNR pixels) + maximum sharpness (avoiding any progressive blending)
2. No processing at all (that means no exposure, contrast, saturation,... corrections applied).

So the resulting image from ZN is virgin, but very dull and terribly underexposed, needing tone mapping. The good news is that is also tremendously robust against any strong post processing; shadows can be lifted as much as you want without any posterization or noise appearing.

For instance this is what the output of Zero Noise for the last image looked like:

IMAGE NOT FOUND
HTTP response: NOT FOUND | MIME changed to 'image/png'


I do all postprocessing in PS mainly with 2 curves (Bright and Contrast), plus some local arrangements when needed. There is an HDR tone mapping tutorial here (external link) (Spanish). To see an example just download the layers used for the last image here: capas.tif (external link).

This can also be done from several copies of the Zero Noise output corrected at different exposures with any HDR tone mapping software (Enfuse/TuFuse, Photomatix,...) or method of your own. The file already contains all the DR and is noise free so copying it several times is not fake HDR.

BR

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tcc
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Apr 05, 2009 18:57 |  #7

I also have a 10-22 and was wondering if you stand relatively close to your "subjects"? I'm still trying to get the hang of this UW lens.


Canon 7D w/grip & RRS L-plate | 100 f2.8 Macro | 10-22 f3.5-4.5 | 70-200L f2.8 IS | 24-70L f2.8 |
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_GUI_
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Apr 05, 2009 19:21 |  #8

tcc wrote in post #7673740 (external link)
I also have a 10-22 and was wondering if you stand relatively close to your "subjects"? I'm still trying to get the hang of this UW lens.

To get the best of the 10-22, I did some tests and found that the best aperture tradeoff between Depth of Field and diffraction is at f/11, so I always shoot at that aperture. At closer apertures (f/16 for example) diffraction starts to quickly reduce sharpness.

I usually focus at 1 or 2m behind the hyperfocal distance (I have the hyperfocal distances written down on a piece of paper for several focal lengths). On indoor shooting I simply focus the closer subject of relevance because the DOF requirements don't reach infinite.

Of course all that applies only on tripod shooting. If you cannot afford using a tripod you won't be able to set f/11 either, at least in indoor shooting.

BR


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Tiger_993
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Apr 05, 2009 19:45 |  #9

Great images! Wish I could read the tutorial. :confused:


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tcc
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Apr 05, 2009 20:38 |  #10

_GUI_ wrote in post #7673862 (external link)
To get the best of the 10-22, I did some tests and found that the best aperture tradeoff between Depth of Field and diffraction is at f/11, so I always shoot at that aperture. At closer apertures (f/16 for example) diffraction starts to quickly reduce sharpness.

I usually focus at 1 or 2m behind the hyperfocal distance (I have the hyperfocal distances written down on a piece of paper for several focal lengths). On indoor shooting I simply focus the closer subject of relevance because the DOF requirements don't reach infinite.

Of course all that applies only on tripod shooting. If you cannot afford using a tripod you won't be able to set f/11 either, at least in indoor shooting.

BR

Thanks BR that really helped. Since the 350D is a 1.6 crop like the XTI/400D I have do you mind sharing the info you have re: focal length vs hyperfocal distance?


Canon 7D w/grip & RRS L-plate | 100 f2.8 Macro | 10-22 f3.5-4.5 | 70-200L f2.8 IS | 24-70L f2.8 |
100-400L f4.5-5.6 | 28-105 f3.5-4.5 | 50 f1.8 | ZE 50 f1.4 | 055xProB | Acratech GV2 | flickr (external link)

  
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Trek_203
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Apr 06, 2009 02:14 as a reply to  @ tcc's post |  #11

amazing work! wish I can read your tutorial as well :(


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_GUI_
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Apr 06, 2009 13:53 |  #12

tcc wrote in post #7674286 (external link)
Thanks BR that really helped. Since the 350D is a 1.6 crop like the XTI/400D I have do you mind sharing the info you have re: focal length vs hyperfocal distance?

I simply used the Dofmaster online calculator (external link).

BR


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Mr ­ B ­ Snappy
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Apr 07, 2009 17:18 |  #13

Trek_203 wrote in post #7675824 (external link)
amazing work! wish I can read your tutorial as well :(

Strange, when I followed the link there was a nice Union Jack to click on which translated it for me. OK not the best translation but you get the gist.


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Mr ­ B ­ Snappy
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Apr 07, 2009 17:20 |  #14

Very interesting looking program by the way, the pictures look good.


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mattograph
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Apr 07, 2009 19:07 |  #15

Wow, this is stunning. Architectural Digest is holding on line 1, sir! :)


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Indoor HDR (3 pictures)
FORUMS Post Processing, Marketing & Presenting Photos HDR Creation 
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