figuring out "rough guess" at exposure without "live view"

I have both the 17-50 and a 70-200. I use those two the most. I have 24-105 that doesn't get alot of use anymore. I just love those two lenses. I recently shot this with the 40D and Tamron 17-50. If you are using mostly manual mode, you'll love the big round thumb dial on the back of the 40D for changing aperture, while your index finger runs the wheel on top for shutter. Much better than the rebel Xxx series.

dipps wrote in post #7692022
cool. i guess i was mostly concerned with condensation issues on my lenses, moving from the cold to indoors, as i had experienced such issues in the past with scopes. i always shoot with a neckstrap so, unless it got so cold that the neckstrap connection points plastic became brittle and broke, dropping the camera shouldn't be an issue.

If you take precautions against condensation, you won't have any problem. There are plenty of us upper-midwesterners (ok, I'm really a transplanted southerner but I've lived here for 10 years) here on POTN who shoot in the winter all the time.

by the way, I was hand holding that shot after dark. No tripod.

two separate "controls" for shutter and aperture? sweet. i'm ok with pushing a button on the xsi to change the aperture using the wheel, but two controls would be nicer. sweet pic, btw.

gymell, i found myself wishing i had the xsi with a fast lens while out sledding with the kids one day..... could have gotten some really sweet actions shots of them flying down the hill, over jumps, crashing, laughing, having a blast. lol

looking forward to taking the xsi with me when i go out scouting during the early bow season.... maybe catch some deer pics, turkey pics, fox or coyote pics in the process.

Yohan Pamudji wrote in post #7691518
How exactly are you using live view to guesstimate exposure? I'm curious now.

ok, to answer your question, i think it's a matter of me just using the term "exposure" improperly. basically, what i was meaning to say from the get go, is that i use live view to set my initial aperture and shutter speed (and sometimes ISO) settings by looking at live view and the subject i plan on taking a picture of, then tinkering with the settings until i get what appears to be the correct lighting in live view. i then switch back to non-"live view" and use the viewfinder to get focused in and take my first shot. i'll then review the shot afterwards, make a call regarding whether or not it has the "lighting" i'm looking for, maybe make some aperture or shutter speed adjustments if it seems too dark or too bright (or if the histogram is bunched up on one end or the other), then take another pic or two. i'm trying to figure out how to do all of the above without using live view (even thought live view is available on the 40D ). and it's been a busy evening, and i'm trying to watch "the day the earth stood still" with the wife at the moment, so no, i haven't done any further studying up on proper use of the viewfinder..... but i wanted to better clarify what it was i was trying to do with live view.

dipps wrote in post #7692391
two separate "controls" for shutter and aperture? sweet. i'm ok with pushing a button on the xsi to change the aperture using the wheel, but two controls would be nicer. sweet pic, btw.

Just wait until you use that control wheel for a short while. Using a camera without it and trying to control apreture will drive you nuts.

Dipps, I'm not trying to incite a riot here..... seriously, but after reading your most recent post it seems that you're making this way more complicated than it needs to be.

I know you mean well, and take this whole thing seriously, but perhaps you need to learn more about how to adjust exposure with your camera's meter? Once you get the hang of that, you'll get better pictures quicker, without filling up your cards.

no riot incited. and i'm working on it (but i'm taking a break until the movie is over, lol).

I don't understand this at all. If you are merely taking a picture (to see the effect of the exposure etc) like photographers used to take Polaroid shots first, why use Live View at all? Why not do it all through the viewfinder?

If I interpret post #35 correctly, I believe OP is under the impression that he can see the effects of exposure adjustments by viewing the scene in live view. Does live view do that?

runninmann wrote in post #7696462
If I interpret post #35 correctly, I believe OP is under the impression that he can see the effects of exposure adjustments by viewing the scene in live view. Does live view do that?

Yes, that’s what the OP is talking about, and yes, it is possible with 40D.
C.Fn IV-7 (Live View exposure simulation) has to be set to 1 - that’s all.

runninmann wrote in post #7696462
If I interpret post #35 correctly, I believe OP is under the impression that he can see the effects of exposure adjustments by viewing the scene in live view. Does live view do that?

exactly (or in laymen's terms, i can see the effects on the overall lighting of the pic i'm about to take as i change the aperture/shutter speed/ISO). i can turn on live view, make aperture and shutter speed adjustments and watch the live view image change (lighten or darken) as i make those adjustments. pretty simple method, really. not as accurate as using the "proper" method, but worked very well for me.... until now. got my "understanding exposures" book back from the co-worker this morning, and read up on "exposure meters" (p114) and "the light meter" (p22) and have a much better understanding of the "proper" method now. read the following comment in another thread somewhere around here this morning.....

which brought it all together. basically, i determine which is the priority for the shot i'm trying to take (faster/slower shutter speed, or aperture..... dictated by what sort of "creative effect" i'm looking for), pick a decent ISO, the depress the shutter halfway and read the exposure level indicator in the viewfinder. if it's not dead center "zero" (it's off to one side or the other), i make adjustments to the aperture/shutter speed (whichever is "variable" for the particular shot i'm going for) as well as change the ISO if i'm not able to accomplish "zero" with the aperture/shutter speed adjustments. once i've acheived "zero" on the exposure level indicator, i should be good to go. IF i understand everything correctly.

now i just gotta get a better grasp of the various metering modes, which is most beneficial to use in what situations, then right those crib notes on the back of my hand in permanent marker so i don't forget.

Funny thread. dipps, you should be ashamed of yourself. I think we need to revoke you mod status at that "other" site.

The meter is what you should be looking at like some have said, and don't fret if it isn't exactly at 0 every time. Sometimes over/underexposure is what you want.

Manual mode, set the shutter speed and aperture you need, then adjust ISO to get the meter reading you want. End of lesson.

Using flash is another story.

Your friend, DTfz.

FZ1dave wrote in post #7697533
Funny thread. dipps, you should be ashamed of yourself. I think we need to revoke you mod status at that "other" site.

The meter is what you should be looking at like some have said, and don't fret if it isn't exactly at 0 every time. Sometimes over/underexposure is what you want.

Manual mode, set the shutter speed and aperture you need, then adjust ISO to get the meter reading you want. End of lesson.

Using flash is another story.

Your friend, DTfz.

don't you DARE mention this over there, or i'm going to have to do cruel things to your user account. [Insert :devil: smilie here]



just kidding. i knew i was in a bit of trouble when i saw the most recent responder to this thread was a username beginning with "fz1".

yeah, what you are saying is what i've come to understand after studying up a bit more in my book and the manual. as mentioned earlier, i found a method that was working for me, didn't have any reason to look for a different method until i started eyeing the 40D and mistakenly thought that it didn't have a live view mode. who knows..... had i not posted this thread, i may have gone on using my "noob" technique for another couple years or so. lol

time to delve into the other chapters of the book that i've been remiss in reading......

FZ1dave wrote in post #7697533
Sometimes over/underexposure is what you want.

Yes but, at this stage in his learning curve, how would dipps know when and by how much?