Trying to Shoot a Picture at Night With My PowerShot SX10 Is

Hey guys I'm trying to take pictures at night but all my pics keep coming out dark or blurry. I am a beginner at Photography but I am trying to learn. If anyone can help me out a bit I would appreciate it. i'm going to attach some of the pics I took just now. I tried putting the camera on "NIGHT SCENE" but they come out dark. I tried it in the M mode and I tried adjusting the aperture and the shutter speed but that has me lost. Help Please

A tripod would be essential. Any long exposure pics would need to be mounted on a flat surface or tripod to avoid any kind of movement. Also, set the self-timer to 2 or 10 seconds (or use a remote; I don't know what the SX10 has this ability) so that any initial movement with pressing the shutter won't affect the picture. I hope that this helps.

You can use Tv dial, set it to 5 - 10 seconds, ISO 200. Fix your camera on tripod. Yes, using self-timer can prevent camera shaking.

Pelawancai

If you are trying long exposures (anything over 1/focal length) then additional support is likely to be required.

Tripod is best but a beanbag, sweater, railing have all worked for me in the past.

pelawancai wrote in post #7819049
You can use Tv dial, set it to 5 - 10 seconds, ISO 200. Fix your camera on tripod. Yes, using self-timer can prevent camera shaking.

Pelawancai

I haven't thought of a use for self-timer yet, except if I ever want to jump in a group shot. So how does using that help prevent camera shake? The movement from pressing the button is what you're referring to?

That, & mirror slap, if your camera has one.
Forget "NIGHT SCENE". Shoot some tests in manual, about 2 f-stops up from wide open, which is where your lens is probably sharpest.
And, some of the best "night shots" I've seen were taken before it's totally dark while there's still some light left in the sky. You don't need much, but you need some.
Lets See Your 30 sec. exposures

GDane123 wrote in post #7820819
I haven't thought of a use for self-timer yet, except if I ever want to jump in a group shot. So how does using that help prevent camera shake? The movement from pressing the button is what you're referring to?

The moment you press and release shuttle button will cause camera shaking.
When self timer is being used (use the option 2 or 10 seconds or custom), once you releasing from the shutte button, your camera still have time from shaking to steady. Then the outcome of your picture will not have blur result.

Pelawancai

As mentioned above a tripod is essential since at any focal length most people can't take a steady hand-held shot at a shutterspeed slower than 1/30s, and if you zoomed in with this camera you may even need a minimum of something like 1/300s to avoid blur (guessing a bit, but I'm probably close). Get a good tripod (ask here for suggestions) as the sturdier the base the better your images. This is much, much more important to using timer mode to release the shutter for long exposures, but using timer mode certainly helps too.

Also, I know you used flash for both of the images posted, but it only helps illuminate anything 5-10 feet from the camera. Further than that the onboard flash doees little to nothing.

Get a tripod, make sure that you have something bright in the image for the camera to focus on, and try Manual. Follow PhotosGuy's advice and pick an f-stop that stops down a bit from wide open (use f/4 instead of f/2.8 ), leave it at ISO 100 and then just try different shutterspeeds until you get what you want.

And what you want for a result is totally up to you. For example I like the exposure for the darker image you posted (ISO200, 1/3s, f/2.8 ). You may have been going for what you got for the lighter one (ISO200, 6s, f/6.3).

On this same line, I am trying to use this camera to shoot sports (action) shots at night but not having much luck. Does anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks

There are people shooting 40Ds and $1500 lenses that are "not having much luck" trying to shoot night sports. Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but I don't think there is anything you can do with your SX10. Depending on the sport, you're looking at upwards of $10K on a body/lens (something like a 1DMKIII and 400mm f/2.8)

drlmel wrote in post #8005459
On this same line, I am trying to use this camera to shoot sports (action) shots at night but not having much luck. Does anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks

I am not asking for a miracle, just decent. I used to use a Sony HDR-CX12 and it did ok but grainy. I was hoping for just the same or a little better with this cannon. I have tried different settings but it just doesnt seem to be as "clear" as the Sony.

How far away and what was your EXIF?

nphsbuckeye wrote in post #8005712
How far away and what was your EXIF?

I can get as close as about 50 feet and what is a EXIF?

My SX10 IS is what made me upgrade to the XSi. The camera is just horrible. Overblown highlights no matter what I did. People are better off with just a regular Canon P&S. If you're going to spend that kind of money, get an XTi or XS.