cooked 580 ex

Helped by a Lumeydyne Cycler which has a recycle time of about two seconds, I apparently popped off way too many full power flashes one after the other on my 580 ex and it's now dead.

Question: Is the element burned out and in need of replacement? If more serious, then what? Anyone know?

Chris

Send it to Canon to have the flash tube replaced, I read a thread recently that suggested the standard repair fee for a 580 was $125.

awww, i was expecting pics of a melty 580ex

If it's just the flash tube, I can replace it myself. I've done it once before. It was a tedious (and shocking) project, but doable.
I just wanted to verify that it was the flash tube that bit the dust and not something else...

It also could be the circuitry in the flash unit. I fried the circuitry in one of my 540EZ's by popping it off too quickly with a battery pack.

https://photography-on-the.net …135&highlight=f​ried+540ez

how likely is it to burn one of these out? and whats a safe number of rapid flashes?

1ruffryder wrote in post #7793286
and whats a safe number of rapid flashes?

The last one right before you smell the smoke...

DDCSD wrote in post #7793292
The last one right before you smell the smoke...

lol thats what i was afraid of

1ruffryder wrote in post #7793316
lol thats what i was afraid of

That was exactly how many pops I got out of mine.

There are guidelines in the manual.

Chris&jess wrote in post #7793255
If it's just the flash tube, I can replace it myself. I've done it once before. It was a tedious (and shocking) project, but doable.
I just wanted to verify that it was the flash tube that bit the dust and not something else...

If you'd like to minimize the risk of shock in the future here's some useful info taken from the 540EZ service manual:

See the attached photos for the location of the access point to the (+) terminal on a 580EX flash. Note that the voltage still measures 250+ volts more than 16 hours after the flash was shut off & batteries removed. The main cap of the 540EZ is rated at 1300uF/350V & I suspect the 580 uses the same or larger so there's potential for a good wallop from the stored energy in the cap. If possible, before commencing any work fire off a full power flash & immediately switch off the flash to minimize the voltage on the main cap (though if you're digging into the innards it's likely you're doing so because you can't fire the flash...)

Note that it's important that the flash is in the 'normal' firing position as in the photo otherwise access to the (+) terminal is blocked & you can make an incorrect assumption that no voltage is present.

A couple of references where you can find info re safely discharging capacitors:

http://repairfaq.cis.u​penn.edu/sam/strbfaq.h​tm#strbcap (good source for info on strobe & flash electronics in general)

http://repairfaq.ece.d​rexel.edu/sam/captest.​htm#ctsdc

A resistor of low enough resistance to quickly discharge the 1300uF cap, which may be at voltages around 300V, will have to be very high wattage, much more than what you'll likely find at Radio Shack. Higher value resistors can be of lower wattage, of course, but the time required to discharge increases in direct relation to the increase in resistance. Attempting to simply use a wire jumper is an invitation to disaster!

It's always prudent to measure the voltage across a cap before diving in rather than assuming it's been safely discharged after some time period. Again, refer to the above links for guidance.

The voltages present aren't likely to be lethal, but they can be. There is certainly potential for a nasty shock or burn. Most typically the greatest damage is done to equipment due to the reaction one has on receiving a shock. Things tend to go flying...

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I dropped my 580ex and broke the bulb. I followed the directions from another forum user who posted a how-to-guide how to order and replace the bulb for $40 instead of having Canon repair it for over $100. Mine works fine now.

https://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthre​ad.php?t=523087

Found how to replace a broken flash foot here as well:

http://www.planetneil.​com …canon-580ex-hotshoe-foot/

I'd advise you take pictures of every set of screws and dissassembly because the screws look the same but aren't quite.

1ruffryder wrote in post #7793286
how likely is it to burn one of these out? and whats a safe number of rapid flashes?

The Lumedyne cycler came with a warning that this could happen. I was totally into the shoot and I just didn't think of it.
We were on a family shoot at the park with three small uncooperative children. I had two identical setups of 580, Cycler, lightstand, PW, and Fong tupperware. I guess I should consider myself lucky that both units didn't go south.
How many rapid fire shots? about 20 in a row at three second intervals. We did about five sets like this. They both worked up to the very end.
Chris

DDCSD wrote in post #7793270
It also could be the circuitry in the flash unit. I fried the circuitry in one of my 540EZ's by popping it off too quickly with a battery pack.

https://photography-on-the.net …135&highlight=f​ried+540ez

were you able to repair the circuitry?

GH_ATL_GA wrote in post #7795572
If you'd like to minimize the risk of shock in the future here's some useful info taken from the 540EZ service manual:

See the attached photos for the location of the access point to the (+) terminal on a 580EX flash. Note that the voltage still measures 250+ volts more than 16 hours after the flash was shut off & batteries removed. The main cap of the 540EZ is rated at 1300uF/350V & I suspect the 580 uses the same or larger so there's potential for a good wallop from the stored energy in the cap. If possible, before commencing any work fire off a full power flash & immediately switch off the flash to minimize the voltage on the main cap (though if you're digging into the innards it's likely you're doing so because you can't fire the flash...)

Note that it's important that the flash is in the 'normal' firing position as in the photo otherwise access to the (+) terminal is blocked & you can make an incorrect assumption that no voltage is present.

A couple of references where you can find info re safely discharging capacitors:

http://repairfaq.cis.u​penn.edu/sam/strbfaq.h​tm#strbcap (good source for info on strobe & flash electronics in general)

http://repairfaq.ece.d​rexel.edu/sam/captest.​htm#ctsdc

A resistor of low enough resistance to quickly discharge the 1300uF cap, which may be at voltages around 300V, will have to be very high wattage, much more than what you'll likely find at Radio Shack. Higher value resistors can be of lower wattage, of course, but the time required to discharge increases in direct relation to the increase in resistance. Attempting to simply use a wire jumper is an invitation to disaster!

It's always prudent to measure the voltage across a cap before diving in rather than assuming it's been safely discharged after some time period. Again, refer to the above links for guidance.

The voltages present aren't likely to be lethal, but they can be. There is certainly potential for a nasty shock or burn. Most typically the greatest damage is done to equipment due to the reaction one has on receiving a shock. Things tend to go flying...

My unit now has a full charge but I have no way to discharge it. Is there another way to discharge outside of purchasing a fancy tester?
Chris