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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 24 Apr 2009 (Friday) 21:16
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Canon ST-E2 LED mod

 
tangcla
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Apr 24, 2009 21:16 |  #1

I decided to mod my ST-E2 with brighter LEDs as it's useless to view in the daylight.

For anyone else wanting to do this, there are resistors which can be bridged to give full voltage to the standard red LEDs. This is what I did with the ratio LEDs.


Clarence
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ryant35
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Apr 24, 2009 22:21 |  #2

That's pretty cool. I solder led's all the time, but I don't have the guts or the skills to solder on my camera gear.



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MSIGuy
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Apr 24, 2009 22:49 |  #3

What's that thing on top?


Some cameras, some lenses, plenty of gaffer's tape and beer.

  
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mattograph
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Apr 24, 2009 22:53 |  #4

Radiopopper. Wireless Ettl trigger.


This space for rent.

  
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OWSIU
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Apr 24, 2009 23:03 |  #5

Nice work! I remember soldering smd LEDs that small on my nokia cell phone when I was in high school.




  
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dan ­ j
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Apr 24, 2009 23:11 |  #6

Bummer, I was hoping you'd found a way to make the ST-E2 perform better in direct sunlight - I mean besides the RP ;)

Nice work though!

dan


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tangcla
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Apr 25, 2009 00:01 |  #7

dan j wrote in post #7799552 (external link)
Bummer, I was hoping you'd found a way to make the ST-E2 perform better in direct sunlight - I mean besides the RP ;)

Nice work though!

dan

Well, behind the black mask, it's still a white flash, so I suppose if you remove that and replace it with a clear plastic, it'd work better? :)


Clarence
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Canon 5D Mark III x2 | 16-35mm f/2.8L | 24-70mm f/2.8L | 70-200mm f/2.8L IS
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dan ­ j
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Apr 25, 2009 00:06 |  #8

That might work - but not if I did it :p My soldering skill is lacking. Now I'm wondering if that would work. Would it confuse the ETTL?

If I ever get through my wife's to-do list I might try this ;)

dan


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tangcla
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Apr 25, 2009 00:50 |  #9

Well, you can try taking the cover off and see if it increases range :)


Clarence
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Lightstream
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Apr 25, 2009 01:03 |  #10

Very nice. Be aware though, that overdriving LED's makes them burn out much faster - the candle that burns at both ends, so to speak.

I was hoping you'd found a way to make that AF-Assist illuminator brighter. That one really needs help.

I figure that one of today's ultra-high-power LEDs would make the AF lock on much faster - albeit at the cost of subject discomfort ;) otherwise I would be tempted to put in a state-of-the-art red-orange Luxeon 3 into one of those :p




  
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tangcla
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Apr 25, 2009 01:06 |  #11

Lightstream wrote in post #7799948 (external link)
Very nice. Be aware though, that overdriving LED's makes them burn out much faster - the candle that burns at both ends, so to speak.

White and purple LEDs which I put in are designed to be driven by 3V power :)


Clarence
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Canon 5D Mark III x2 | 16-35mm f/2.8L | 24-70mm f/2.8L | 70-200mm f/2.8L IS
100mm f/2.8L IS macro | 200mm f/2.0L IS| 580EX-II x2 | 430EX-II | PocketWizard TT1/TT5

  
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Lightstream
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Apr 25, 2009 01:08 |  #12

tangcla wrote in post #7799959 (external link)
White and purple LEDs which I put in are designed to be driven by 3V power :)

Understood... just advising you that LEDs are best driven by a constant-current source. (I have sacrificed many to the lighting gods ;) )

Would you have any idea how the front AF-Assist LED system is constructed?




  
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tangcla
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Apr 25, 2009 01:30 |  #13

Lightstream wrote in post #7799966 (external link)
Would you have any idea how the front AF-Assist LED system is constructed?

hehe actually no, I didn't go that far in disassembly, cos I knew what I wanted to get to :D might have a look at it next time I take it apart... :)

now I have to start buying stockpiles of 2CR5 batteries :lol:


Clarence
www.tangcla.com - photography (external link)
Canon 5D Mark III x2 | 16-35mm f/2.8L | 24-70mm f/2.8L | 70-200mm f/2.8L IS
100mm f/2.8L IS macro | 200mm f/2.0L IS| 580EX-II x2 | 430EX-II | PocketWizard TT1/TT5

  
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Lightstream
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Apr 25, 2009 05:11 |  #14

Inspired by you, I took apart my own ST-E2. I got as far as you did, then lifted out the bottom PCB to expose the LEDs underneath. They look like surface-mount devices, not 5mm LEDs, behind an optic which probably helps create the beam pattern.

Doesn't look like something I'd tackle myself though. Perhaps if there is anybody more skilled in soldering, or willing to risk destroying their ST-E2..




  
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tangcla
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Apr 25, 2009 05:18 |  #15

Lightstream wrote in post #7800436 (external link)
Inspired by you, I took apart my own ST-E2. I got as far as you did, then lifted out the bottom PCB to expose the LEDs underneath. They look like surface-mount devices, not 5mm LEDs, behind an optic which probably helps create the beam pattern.

Doesn't look like something I'd tackle myself though. Perhaps if there is anybody more skilled in soldering, or willing to risk destroying their ST-E2..

Are you referring to the back panel LEDs or the AF-assist LEDs being SMD? THe back panel is SMD.

Also be aware if anyone attempts this, there is still high voltage stored in the capacitors EVEN WHEN THE BATTERY IS DISCONNECTED!! I've given myself a bit of a shock a few times. :oops:


Clarence
www.tangcla.com - photography (external link)
Canon 5D Mark III x2 | 16-35mm f/2.8L | 24-70mm f/2.8L | 70-200mm f/2.8L IS
100mm f/2.8L IS macro | 200mm f/2.0L IS| 580EX-II x2 | 430EX-II | PocketWizard TT1/TT5

  
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Canon ST-E2 LED mod
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