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Thread started 25 Feb 2006 (Saturday) 07:20
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Another Arizona POTN get together (3)?

 
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BeyondTheNorm
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Jul 09, 2010 15:51 as a reply to  @ post 10506962 |  #6961

I've dabbled a bit in Time-lapse using my 20D. I use an intervalometer, shutter duration depends on what your trying to capture. Star tracks generally 20sec, stop action is faster, of course.

Converting to video ~15 fps, so you can do the math, usually several thousand frames for a 15 sec clip. Photoshop CS4 can render a batch of image files to HD video clip.

http://www.flickr.com …ndevilstormin/4​362200356/ (external link)
http://www.flickr.com …ndevilstormin/4​313013716/ (external link)
http://www.flickr.com …ndevilstormin/4​367498950/ (external link)
http://www.flickr.com …ndevilstormin/4​227370137/ (external link)
http://www.flickr.com …ndevilstormin/4​299638220/ (external link)

great site for time-lapse set-up, processing, gear, etc
http://www.timescapes.​org (external link)


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Hatch1921
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Jul 09, 2010 15:57 |  #6962

Nice videos all!


Really thought the one where the clouds were rolling in over Tempe Town Lake turned out cool.

Just sold the 24-70.... time to pick up the 35L .... good times!!


Frank Hatcher Photography (external link)

  
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FlyingPhotog
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Jul 09, 2010 16:12 |  #6963

The key to the Japanese Lantern Festival film is that you still need a per-frame shutter speed slow enough to show motion blur in each frame.

I noticed he used a Vari-ND which can provide up to (I think) 8-10 stops of light cutting power.

Generally 15 frame to 1 second duration disolves between shots will smooth things out nicely.


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BeyondTheNorm
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Jul 09, 2010 16:13 as a reply to  @ Hatch1921's post |  #6964

prety basic stuff .. just another camera running during other shoots. Compared to my buddy's clips they are amateurish, but its fun to do. I'm using Photoshop, but to really do it well I'd need to 'learn' some video processing software in my spare time


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AZAlphaDog
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Jul 09, 2010 16:15 |  #6965

sundevilstormin wrote in post #10507333 (external link)
I've dabbled a bit in Time-lapse using my 20D . . .

Thanks, now I have a ton of info. to go through and some testing to see if I can learn how to do this.


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disneydork06
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Jul 09, 2010 16:22 |  #6966

FlyingPhotog wrote in post #10506427 (external link)
Just about every day of the week, why? ;)



Some Random Thoughts:

A lot of the same things apply in video as they do in stills. Normal composition 'rules' still apply but the big difference is that it's all dynamic and not static.

Say you have an element in the corner of the frame. With a still, you simply place it where you want it either by zooming or moving your feet and take the shot. In video, you have to learn to pan, tilt (panning is moving L/R .. Tilting is moving Up/Down) and zoom smoothly all at the same time to keep that object in the same relative place in the frame.

One important tip: When you start recording, always count to ten before you make a move and always hold for ten seconds at the end of the shot. Later in editing, you'll be glad you did! Shoot more than you need and then shoot some more. Nothing is more frustrating when trying to assemble a project than discovering you shot at a .9 to 1 ratio. Shoot 10:1 or 20:1 in terms of what was shot to what you'll use.

Most people zoom too much. "Move Your Feet" applies to video as well as still shooting. A well composed static shot showing the world go by is just as good as a well composed still image so not every shot has to pan, tilt or zoom. Moves in one axis can be creative. A pan accross or a tilt down along a subject is sometimes all you need.

Three key hardware elements:
- Solid Tripod
- Pan Head that allows you to set some tension or drag to work against. Pans and Tilts are much smoother when you have to actually "fight" the head a little bit. Sloppy heads mean moves that don't go where you want them to go, start too choppy and don't stop cleanly. And yes they're pricey but fluid heads are superior. A Wimberly can be used but they aren't built to be used constantly with the tension knobs partially tightened.
- A Zacuto or Hoodman device so you can see the LCD outdoors.

If this shakes loose any specific questions, fire away. Otherwise, I'll shaddup...

;)

wow, great advice. wish I heard this a couple years ago. got to run the cameras up at Ardrey Auditorium up at NAU for one of the choral professors. fun stuff controlling 6 cameras and the controls right in front of you. should stayed to do a masters while I was up there so I could play with those cameras even more :-P


Ryan
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irishman
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Jul 09, 2010 16:41 |  #6967

FlyingPhotog wrote in post #10506427 (external link)
Just about every day of the week, why? ;)


Some Random Thoughts:

A lot of the same things apply in video as they do in stills. Normal composition 'rules' still apply but the big difference is that it's all dynamic and not static.

Say you have an element in the corner of the frame. With a still, you simply place it where you want it either by zooming or moving your feet and take the shot. In video, you have to learn to pan, tilt (panning is moving L/R .. Tilting is moving Up/Down) and zoom smoothly all at the same time to keep that object in the same relative place in the frame.

One important tip: When you start recording, always count to ten before you make a move and always hold for ten seconds at the end of the shot. Later in editing, you'll be glad you did! Shoot more than you need and then shoot some more. Nothing is more frustrating when trying to assemble a project than discovering you shot at a .9 to 1 ratio. Shoot 10:1 or 20:1 in terms of what was shot to what you'll use.

Most people zoom too much. "Move Your Feet" applies to video as well as still shooting. A well composed static shot showing the world go by is just as good as a well composed still image so not every shot has to pan, tilt or zoom. Moves in one axis can be creative. A pan accross or a tilt down along a subject is sometimes all you need.

Three key hardware elements:
- Solid Tripod
- Pan Head that allows you to set some tension or drag to work against. Pans and Tilts are much smoother when you have to actually "fight" the head a little bit. Sloppy heads mean moves that don't go where you want them to go, start too choppy and don't stop cleanly. And yes they're pricey but fluid heads are superior. A Wimberly can be used but they aren't built to be used constantly with the tension knobs partially tightened.
- A Zacuto or Hoodman device so you can see the LCD outdoors.

If this shakes loose any specific questions, fire away. Otherwise, I'll shaddup...

;)

Thanks for all the work, Jay. Sounds like a whole different world to me. I do have an external mic (RodeVideo) but looks like more equipment may be in order. Might go just to see what they haveto say.
Thanks again.


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disneydork06
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Jul 09, 2010 16:57 |  #6968

so finally getting around to editing some shots from my vacay in san francisco. here's one where I was testing the 50mm 1.8 lens I got. better late than never?

IMAGE: http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4080/4778428226_3567ef16a8.jpg

Ryan
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itsmejson
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Jul 09, 2010 17:04 |  #6969

disneydork06 wrote in post #10507676 (external link)
so finally getting around to editing some shots from my vacay in san francisco. here's one where I was testing the 50mm 1.8 lens I got. better late than never?

QUOTED IMAGE

wow that looks pretty sweet;) great job


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disneydork06
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Jul 09, 2010 17:22 |  #6970

Thanks!

heading to the baseball park tonight. also attending the concert and bringing in my camera and 70-200. hope I can get some interesting shots.


Ryan
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AZAlphaDog
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Jul 09, 2010 18:03 as a reply to  @ itsmejson's post |  #6971

One of the KEY elements that Jay failed to mention when trying to achieve the video results of the light festival is the ability to "pull focus" without that effect you can have a difficult time trying to make your videos look like those.


Here are some of my fav DSLR videos:

Little girls soccer (external link) this one looks less professional than others and you really get the idea that you could do this with your camera.

7D film that is fantastic . . . (external link) much higher production costs and value, but shows you what is possible with a 7D

Carnival stuff (external link) another very good short.


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AZAlphaDog
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Jul 09, 2010 18:15 as a reply to  @ AZAlphaDog's post |  #6972

Here is some baseball for you Ryan . . .


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Dean ­ Rachwitz
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Jul 09, 2010 18:16 |  #6973

Cool baseball shots, Doug!

Ryan, that's a very nice flower shots. Love the soft, colorful bokeh.

sundevilstormin wrote in post #10496241 (external link)
Hello AriZonies! Just joined POTN.

Take a browse of my Flickr portfolio here.
http://www.flickr.com/​photos/sundevilstormin​/sets/ (external link)

Can't wait for MONSOON to hit in earnest!

Welcome! Cool stuff on your Flickr page. Added you. I LOVE bad weather and would love to get out with a group for some storm pics.


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lilminijpc
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Jul 09, 2010 20:44 |  #6974

Kristy wrote in post #10492499 (external link)
Hey Joyce, I forgot to say "CONGRATS" on the Discovery Channel thing... that is so awesome. I left a note on FB for ya.

@ Kristy, Thanks!! =) Trying to catch up on posts, email and fb also! Hope your 4th was fun!

FlyingPhotog wrote in post #10503545 (external link)
The morning tour should allow for some nice subtle colors. The mid-day tour will be your "money shot" time. I'm sure your guide will do the sand toss to give you light shafts and flowing sand off shelves. Cool stuff.

@ Jay, congrats on your sale! (Somehow I lost your post where you had mentioned it a while back, so I decided to just quote this one. :))


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FlyingPhotog
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Jul 09, 2010 22:41 |  #6975

Thank You my Dear.

I looked for you on LDRS but the crowd shots were too quick to identify anyone. Looked like a very cool event (and Keri Byron is HAWT!) Ahem, sorry...

So, what was your post about "Middle of the Pacific..." about on FB? Headed to Hawaii?


Jay
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Another Arizona POTN get together (3)?
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