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Thread started 26 Apr 2009 (Sunday) 05:25
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Calibration tests with an EyeOne D2 [Warning: extremely nerdy]

 
Damo77
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Apr 26, 2009 05:25 |  #1

Ever since this discussion back in February, I've been meaning to run some calibration tests. This will be totally boring to most people, but I hope at least Lowner and gcogger may read it :)

(I'll have to break this up into several posts, because of the image limit.)

I used my trusty Eye One Display 2, and my guinea pig was a run-of-the-mill LG Flatron L1919S (external link) TN panel monitor (coupled with run-of-the-mill onboard graphics - SiS 661FX if that means anything to anybody).

The Prep

I wanted to try various calibration targets, mainly to assess banding. Monitor banding is so feared among photographers, but I've never seen it, so I wanted to find some. I felt like Captain Ahab seeking Moby Dick.

My monitor's factory defaults are:
Brightness 100%
Contrast 70%
Red, Green and Blue (when activated) 50%

Now, I had a list of various targets and methods I wanted to try (see below), but of course I couldn't try every single possible combination. So I decided to
(a) stick to Luminance target of 100, which has always served me well.
(b) follow the EyeOne's lead on the Contrast setting each time. I have no quibble with Contrast (at least, I thought not - more about that later)

Test 1 - Targets: Native/Native/No change

Targets: Native white, Native gamma, No change luminance (let's start by seeing just how bright this baby can be)

Method: Started with factory defaults (100, 70, 50/50/50) then took Contrast up to 100 per EyeOne's instructions.

Resultant monitor settings: Contrast 73, all others unchanged.

Calibration result: 6100K, 257cd/m2 - damn that's bright!

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Test 2 - Native/2.2/100

Method: Started with factory defaults, then adjusting Contrast and Brightness per EyeOne's instructions

Resultant monitor settings: Contrast 73, Brightness 2.

Calibration result: 6200/2.2/101
IMAGE: http://www.damiensymonds.com.au/images/articles/t2summary.jpg
Close-up of highlight end of Gray Ramp:
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Tests 3 & 4 - 6500/2.2/100

Method: Started with factory defaults, then adjusting Contrast and Brightness per EyeOne's instructions. DID NOT adjust monitor white settings in any way - I wanted this to be done all in the profile.

The difference between these two tests was that in one I chose "RGB presets" and in the other I chose "RGB Controls". In both cases, however, I didn't actually change these monitor settings, just pressed "Ok" to continue. I didn't expect much difference between these two tests, and I was right.

Resultant monitor settings: Contrast 73, Brightness 2, just like before. During the calibration, the white read as 6200, as previously.

Calibration result - Test 3 (presets): 6500/2.2/87. It hit the target using the profile, but apparently at the expense of the luminance. Check out that Gray Ramp.
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Calibration result - Test 4 (controls): 6500/2.2/83. Almost identical to above.
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Damo77
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Apr 26, 2009 05:25 |  #2

Test 5 - 6500/2.2/100

Method: Set the target to 6500, and actually used the monitors presets to get as close as possible this time. As it turned out, the 6500 preset was too low, but the next highest preset (unnamed) was 6500 on the nose. Just lucky, I guess.

Resultant monitor settings: Contrast 73, Brightness 4. Two points higher in the Brightness this time, not quite sure why.

Calibration result: 6500/2.2/86. Hit the white target, but again the Luminance was low. And look at that splayed Gray Ramp! Yeesh!

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Test 6 - Native/2.2/100

Method: Set the Brightness back to Factory Default of 100, then also pushed the R,G & B sliders all the way up to 100. According to popular wisdom, this is where they should be - anything less is dabbling with the LUT. Needless to say, it was hideously bright, so that light colours were completely blown out.

Resultant monitor settings: Contrast 25, Brightness 9. Wow, look at that low Contrast! Has to compensate for the high RGB settings.

Calibration result: 6300/2.2/104.
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Test 7 - 6500/2.2/100

Method: As before, I set the Brightness to Factory Default of 100, then also pushed the R,G & B sliders all the way up to 100. This time, I wanted to achieve 6500 by dabbling with the R,G & B settings as little as possible.

Resultant monitor settings: Contrast 25, Brightness 8, Red 93, Green 90, Blue 100.

Calibration result: 6500/2.2/97 - it hit the targets, but with another splayed Gray Ramp.
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Test 8 - 6500/2.2/100

Method: This time, I wanted a "worst case scenario" (according to the scientists, anyway). I started with the R,G & B all at 0.

Resultant monitor settings: Contrast 100, Brightness 28, Red 12, Green 8, Blue 0.

Calibration result: 6500/2.2/98 - hit the targets, and that's the best Gray Ramp yet!
IMAGE: http://www.damiensymonds.com.au/images/articles/t8summary.jpg
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Apr 26, 2009 05:27 as a reply to  @ Damo77's post |  #3

Test 9 - 6500/2.2/100

Method: This time, I started with the R,G & B at 50s, with the aim of keeping the Brightness, R, G and B settings all within sight of each other. This has always been my preferred approach, although I've never had any scientific reason to do so, only my gut instinct based on many many calibrations.

Resultant monitor settings: Contrast 73, Brightness 23, Red 22, Green 28, Blue 17. It took me a couple of attempts to get this right - I had to jump back and forth between the White setting and the Luminance setting.

Calibration result: 6500/2.2/99 - best one yet.

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---------------

The Analysis - Part 1, Colour

Ok, so what?

Well, as I did each one, I was analysing it, and making notes. I need to point out that I have not fancy profile checking software, just my eyes, Photoshop, and a freshly-calibrated Eizo ColorEdge monitor sitting right beside the LG.

So, after each calibration, I would open Photoshop and load these images:
IMAGE: http://www.damiensymonds.com.au/images/articles/test1.jpg
IMAGE: http://www.damiensymonds.com.au/images/articles/test2.jpg

The first one is a plain 8-bit 21-step grey bar. The second one is 16-bit, because I wanted to use it to check smoothness of gradients, and I didn't want there to be banding in the file itself.

I'd compare these two files on the LG and the Eizo. What did I find?

Several things to say broadly first:

(a) The black end of the gray bar was great every time (apart from Test 1). I could distinguish the last from the second-last bar in each case.

(b) The 252 band was not distinguishable from the white band except for Tests 6 and 8. I can't figure out why those two are special.

(c) Even though my Eizo is calibrated to 6500 with the same device, the LG's 6500 never looked even remotely similar. The LG's gray bar consistently looked more blue, even verging on magenta, than the Eizo. It made the Eizo look greenish by comparison.

(d) The colours in the colour gradients were comparable to the Eizo every time, except the blue, which seemed a tiny bit darker and purpler in most cases, as you'd expect, I guess.

Test 1 - Native/Native: Without any inteference to the LUT at all, this gray bar was hideously blue, as you'd expect. The blacks were bogged in and the whites blown out. The colours were good though.

Test 2 - Native/2.2: Oddly, this one had the dullest colour gradients of all the tests. I'm not sure why.

Tests 3-9: The colour gradients were as bright to my eye as the Eizo in all of these. The gray bars were never quite as uniform as the Eizo, but pretty good all the same.

The Analysis - Part 2, Banding

Drum roll please. This is what I'd really come for.

Each time, I assessed the neutral gradient at 100% size on screen (the file was 1100px wide), then at 400%, then right in at 1600%. As I did this, I compared it with the same file on the Eizo.

The Eizo: At 100%, there is no visible banding, of course. At 400%, there was uniform visible banding at about 8-9mm wide. You wouldn't notice it at a glance, but it was quite visible as soon as you looked for it. At 1600%, the same banding was there, just four times wider, of course.

Test 1: The banding was almost identical to the Eizo.

Tests 2-9: The banding was better than the Eizo in all cases.

Yes, you haven't misread that. At 100% is was completely invisible, and zoomed in, it was harder to distinguish than on the Eizo.

In most cases, the bands were about the same width as the Eizo, but they were not very uniform, as you'd expect. Some bands stood out more than others. But the most interesting thing was ... the bands were soft. Whereas on the Eizo the edges of the banding were hard, on the LG they were kinda blurred, giving the overall appearance of less banding.

I suggested in February that the Dither that 6-bit monitors use might be playing a part - now I am sure this is true. The banding I was seeing reminded me a great deal of what happens when you add a tiny bit of noise to a banded 8-bit image in Photoshop.

In Test 8 (the most radical adjustments to the R,G & B settings) the banding was no worse, but I mentioned in my notes to myself: "Banding perhaps a bit sharper? Dither not working so well?" In all the other tests, the dither did a great job.

Conclusions, and Questions

Ok, what did I learn?

I'm not scared of banding! Actually, I never was, and now even less so. Yes, it's there, but I'm not losing any sleep over it.

Further, I will no longer listen to anybody who says "Don't touch the RGB sliders". In my tests, there was no difference between Native and 6500 targets.

On the subject of listening to people, I have always studiously ignored people (*cough A Rodney cough*) who say you should profile the native gamma. The result was disastrous.

Generally speaking, I say - go ahead and mess with the LUT. It doesn't matter a damn!

There are still many unanswered questions in my head though. Such as, what should I be looking for in a Gray Ramp? I've always strived for the straightest possible Ramp, with the neatest possible ends (such as Tests 8 & 9). I will continue to do that, because it seems to allow me to hit the White Temp and Luminance targets beautifully. But I'd like to know a bit more. If anybody can point me to any literature about it, I'd be grateful.

The other thing I need to understand more is the Contrast setting on an LCD. I've always known it was a "false setting", unlike CRTs, but I wish I knew more about it. What is the EyeOne looking for when it sets it? Again, any links would be appreciated.

Lastly, what is the go with the difference in white temperature between the LG and the Eizo??

My God, if anybody is still reading this, it's a deadset miracle. I welcome any comments, questions and criticism.

Damien
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neumanns
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Apr 26, 2009 09:12 |  #4

I don't completly grasp this subject and calibrated mine according to generally accepted practices. But After reading this I may have to go have a play of my own sometime.

When looking for banding I prefer a "Granger rainbow"...I have some banding on the rainbow but have yet to have it be an issue in the real world.

I found your variations on the grey bar of special intrest...I have never really cared for how my grey's appeared after calibration but had decided to trust xrite over my perception. I cannot even say there off one way or the other....There just "Blah", for lack of a better discription.


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Apr 26, 2009 11:00 |  #5

Interesting read.
I'll read it again in a while, and that time engage the brain as well. Now it's weekend ;)


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Apr 26, 2009 15:17 |  #6

neumanns wrote in post #7806198 (external link)
When looking for banding I prefer a "Granger rainbow"...I have some banding on the rainbow but have yet to have it be an issue in the real world.

I found your variations on the grey bar of special intrest...I have never really cared for how my grey's appeared after calibration but had decided to trust xrite over my perception.

Interesting that you appear to pay more attention to colour than greys. I've always found greys to be the true test of profiling, either display or print.

A granger rainbow would have been of little use to me, frankly. I forgot to mention it above, but I could never see any banding in the colour gradients in my test file. It was only visible in the grey gradient. I was only using the colours to check hue.


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Apr 26, 2009 17:48 |  #7

The thing with the color granger that I found interesting is there is a band that is visable that is not visable in the greyscale.

My banding appears wherever one or more RGB values are 254 or 255 range, This lays a predictable grid across my granger rainbow in both directions. My assumption is this has to do with the hilight ramp.

However the horizontal band all but dissapears in greyscale at the same 254/255 value's


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Apr 27, 2009 04:54 |  #8

Damien,

Way over my skill level, but I promise going to print it out and then do some serious studying. Thank you for what must have been a lot of work. Is there a test to see what I've actually retained?

You commented in test 1 about the blue looking greys at Native. That odd to me, because left to its own devices, my Samsung Syncmaster 910n has a distinct pink edge. I've solved that by using 7000 deg K which is higher than the recommended 6000 - 6500.

Its also a relief to see how similar your input/output graph is to mine. I've always fretted that the blue seems so far out of step with the red and green, particularly at the 255 end of the scale.


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Apr 27, 2009 13:26 as a reply to  @ Lowner's post |  #9

Damien,
Of course, I don't use the EyeOne, but instead utilize the much maligned Spyder3. But your testing has encouraged me to try your method and recalibrate my Dell 2209WA using the RGB sliders.


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Apr 27, 2009 13:50 |  #10

Lowner wrote in post #7811082 (external link)
Its also a relief to see how similar your input/output graph is to mine. I've always fretted that the blue seems so far out of step with the red and green, particularly at the 255 end of the scale.

Richard, perhaps you've misread. I, too, have always been very precious about my Gray Ramp. I was surprised, I guess, to find it made very little visible difference to the calibration.

That said, I'm still going to aim for a straight, close-together ramp as seen in tests 8 and 9.

I wish I'd taken a moment to compare the difference between Photoshop and a non-colour-managed viewer in each test. My guess would be that a "good Gray Ramp" profile (Tests 8 & 9) would give closer CM-to-non-CM results than a "splayed Gray Ramp" profile (Tests 5 & 7), because more of the adjustment existed in the monitor settings than the profile. I might go back and test that, if it's possible to do so.

ChasP505 wrote in post #7813245 (external link)
Damien,
Of course, I don't use the EyeOne, but instead utilize the much maligned Spyder3. But your testing has encouraged me to try your method and recalibrate my Dell 2209WA using the RGB sliders.

I understood that the Spyder3 was much less maligned than its predecessors. In any case, I'd be really interested to hear your results.


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Apr 27, 2009 15:14 as a reply to  @ Damo77's post |  #11

Damien,

Enboldened by your testing, I've just recalibrated using the RBG channel sliders. It took me three attempts, and I've had to bring the colour temperature back down to 6500 because my previous 7000 just looked mad, but the graph is much improved. Still a little wayward, but closer than I've ever seen them before.

My settings:
Brightness: 95
Contrast: 82
Red: 31, Green: 9, Blue: 43

That's calibrating to 6500/2.2/110


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Apr 27, 2009 15:57 |  #12

Wow, that Green is low, isn't it? What were your starting points for R,G & B? 50s?


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Apr 28, 2009 08:08 as a reply to  @ Damo77's post |  #13

Damien,
I sat through a color management video tutorial last night by Chris Murphy, co-author of Real World Color Management. He's got some interesting philosophies on calibration, often totally counter to the common recommendations given on this forum.

He advocates a work/lighting environment which meets D50/5000K conditions. Following from that, he says that calibrating to D50/5000K is best, but acknowledges that many can't keep their work environment at those conditions, so 6500K is next best.

He ran through an LCD display calibration with the EyeOne 2, targeting 120 for the white luminance, 6500K, and 2.2 gamma. Interestingly, he adamantly says to NOT use the RGB controls and to ONLY use the actual identified backlight control, whether it's called Backlight, Brightness, Contrast, or whatever is the case for your respective LCD display. He also said to not use ambient light measurement or compensation, opting for tighter and more consistent control of your image editing work environment.

I followed his prescription with my Spyder3 Elite and Dell 2209WA and, at least subjectively, the result can be described as the "smoothest" I've gotten so far, judging from viewing a group of grayscale calibration images in PS CS4.

My display's Contrast setting remains at the factory default setting of 75, and the Brightness (backlight) is at a low setting of 12 to achieve a target of 120cd/m2. The black value is at 0.24 cd/m2. Bottom line for me is that I'm now totally convinced (and persuaded) that Native is NOT the way to go, but I'll still not use the RGB controls when calibrating the display.


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Apr 28, 2009 09:57 |  #14

Damien,

Yes, the green channel amazes me too! I did not reset the screen to either the defaults or 100, or even zero. That's for when I've digested your report and try again. For now I just started where the menu had set the channels. They started out at:

Red:50, Green:40, Blue:60

However that was with the previous 7000 degK colour temp, so reducing it back down to 6500 degK will have disturbed things. I'm amazed that A. I've had to use 7000 up to now, and B. I've now been forced back to sensible levels just because I used the RGB channel adjustments for the first time ever.

But this is not my last go at it. Your hard work has spurred me into doing a similar amount of work on mine with hopefully a similar outcome.


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Apr 28, 2009 12:07 |  #15

Glad I inspired you, mate! I'd be particularly interested to hear the results if you tried Test 8 (starting with RG&B all at 0) and Test 9 (starting all at 50).


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Calibration tests with an EyeOne D2 [Warning: extremely nerdy]
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