Epson Stylus 3800 users, what papers?

I am (finally) getting ready to order the Epson 3800 printer and need to order at least $100 worth of Epson papers (in order to qualify for the printer rebate).
Can anyone recommend some Epson papers that work well with the 3800? Which papers do you use?

I will be printing portraits and fashion shots initially and some landscape and flower shots also.

Any other advice before I push the buy button on the printer is also welcome and appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Nice printer, but without knowing what you are wanting to print, and what your options are...it's hard to give advice on paper recommendations.
Any lustre or satin paper looks great for large photos, and a good, bright matte finish looks good behind glass. I'm personally not so fond of the glossy papers, but my customers seems to want them.

I'd like to print out portfolio shots to put together a book - portraits, fashion (11x17) and also some large landscape and flower shots for the wall. I am generally not crazy about super glossy papers but my experience in the past was mostly with Canon Glossy papers which are very glossy.
Any opinions on the Epson Ultra Premium Glossy, Semi-Gloss, Velvet Fine-Art, Luster papers? I have to stick to what B&H carries initially and it has to be Epson to get the printer rebate.

I print mostly on big Canon printers, and generally prefer the semi-gloss, satin, and Ilford smooth pearl paper. The velvet fine-art paper sounds interesting.... and you can't go wrong with the luster (lustre), which seems to be the equivalent of Canon's "satin finish", which seems to be the equivalent of ilford's "smooth pearl".

::edited to add::
I see the Epson "fine art" paper is simliar to the Canon "natural" product I print on.
Try it...you'll like it. I just got a couple more rolls of 36" in today.

Epson's description:
"Artists and photographers require a variety of media surfaces for their professional work. Epson is proud to introduce its first cotton paper for the desktop market, Velvet Fine Art Paper. With a base that is 100% cotton rag, buffered and acid free, this paper is coated with our popular Enhanced Matte coating, giving exceptional color gamut and high D-Max. The velvet surface is a favorite of photographers and artists alike, offering a unique museum quality feel. Combining impressive fine art cotton with Epson technology has created a paper that will be a classic for years to come."

Canon's:
"Fine Art Natural 230 gsm paper is a high quality 100% cotton, acid-free inkjet paper. This fine art inkjet paper has a natural shade and contains no optical brighteners. It is compatible with dye and pigment inks. The paper is coated on both sides to allow dual-sided printing, and to eliminate the need of identifying the printable side."

If you already are aware of Mad Man Chan's 3800 info sites, apologies. If not, it's considered one of the best, if not the best, 3800 info sources on the net. He has an extensive write up on the best papers for BW and color prints. Beware! - some are expensive!

http://people.csail.mi​t.edu …n/dp/Epson3800/​index.html

Sorry, just noticed the paper dissertation is not in the faq. It's here:

http://people.csail.mi​t.edu/ericchan/dp/Epso​n3800/papers.html

yup saw that, he only mentions a couple of the Epson fine art papers, thanks though.

CannedHeat wrote in post #7949132
Chan's 3800 info sites

I concur that this is probably the best 3800 tutorial on the net or anywhere else, but like everything else, you need to experiment a little. For instance, he recommends using 100 cd/m2 for the target luminance for LCDs, and I was setting my LaCie 320 to that value for calibrating, but it was producing prints that were a bit darker than the screen. After calibrating at the Eye One recommended level of 120 my prints are dead-on. However, other screens may be different, so experimentation is in order.

DavidPhoto wrote in post #7949239
yup saw that, he only mentions a couple of the Epson fine art papers, thanks though.

Then we're reading two different things. As I mentioned, beyond what is mention in the FAQ is the separate paper article where he also mentions papers from Hahnemuhle, Harman, and Red River.

BTW, when working recently with some Harman I discovered they are now owned by Ilford. Don't know what the situation is - if it is now actually the same as Ilford or still the old Harman paper - but I thought it worth mentioning.

CannedHeat wrote in post #7951743
Then we're reading two different things. As I mentioned, beyond what is mention in the FAQ is the separate paper article where he also mentions papers from Hahnemuhle, Harman, and Red River.

BTW, when working recently with some Harman I discovered they are now owned by Ilford. Don't know what the situation is - if it is now actually the same as Ilford or still the old Harman paper - but I thought it worth mentioning.

nope it is the same thing. I just mentioned the Epson's because thats what I need to buy right now -Epson papers (see original post).

BillyR wrote in post #7949484
...he recommends using 100 cd/m2 for the target luminance for LCDs, and I was setting my LaCie 320 to that value for calibrating, but it was producing prints that were a bit darker than the screen. After calibrating at the Eye One recommended level of 120 my prints are dead-on.

Are you saying that you increased your monitor brightness from 100 to 120 and the prints that were too dark lightened up?

CannedHeat wrote in post #7951775
Are you saying that you increased your monitor brightness from 100 to 120 and the prints that were too dark lightened up?

No, when I edit for prints at the higher brightness I get prints that are more compatible with what I see on the screen. But come to think of it, it's been a while since I experimented with this, and my memory being what it is, I may remember it backwards. But in any event, a setting of 120 for editing produces prints closer to what I see on the screen than a setting of 100. However, as I mentioned, other screens may be different.

BillyR wrote in post #7952000
No, when I edit for prints at the higher brightness I get prints that are more compatible with what I see on the screen. But come to think of it, it's been a while since I experimented with this, and my memory being what it is, I may remember it backwards. But in any event, a setting of 120 for editing produces prints closer to what I see on the screen than a setting of 100. However, as I mentioned, other screens may be different.

Yes, that's why I gave it the benefit of the doubt and asked a question instead of stating it is the opposite - when monitor brightness is increased, print brightness is decreased.

It varies not only by monitor but also printer. I'm the opposite. To get correct print brightness, I had to crank the monitor down to 90 cd/m2. The 120 recommended creates dark prints for me. The 90 works for both the 3800 and a R2400.

Such a bummer! I got the 3800 yesterday and got it all setup. Today I recalibrated and printed a few 4x6's on semi-gloss. They looked good. Then I printed the first 8.5x11 on Luster paper....Error 1134. Called Epson, walked through some things. Tried again a couple more times. No luck. They told me I must have got a bad one and I should get it repaired.
I'm going to try to return it to B&H and get a new one. I can't see getting it repaired when I haven't even printed a single larger print yet. I was so excited to get some decent prints and now I'm so bummed out! Looks like a PIA to ship it back too. Uggh.

DavidPhoto wrote in post #7972328
Such a bummer! I got the 3800 yesterday and got it all setup. Today I recalibrated and printed a few 4x6's on semi-gloss. They looked good. Then I printed the first 8.5x11 on Luster paper....Error 1134. Called Epson, walked through some things. Tried again a couple more times. No luck. They told me I must have got a bad one and I should get it repaired.
I'm going to try to return it to B&H and get a new one. I can't see getting it repaired when I haven't even printed a single larger print yet. I was so excited to get some decent prints and now I'm so bummed out! Looks like a PIA to ship it back too. Uggh.

Agree - bummer, but it is good news you got it from BH. You should not have the slightest problem exchanging with them. I never have. To expedite, consider purchasing a new one at the same time you get an RMA issued. Tell them when they get your old printer you would rather have a refund on your CC. That way, the new printer is heading toward you in half the time.

Yeah but it gets complicated because of the rebate. The paper purchase has to be on the same invoice and it all has to be done by the end of the week. I'm hoping B&H can take care of this easily. Otherwise its all going back and I'll get something else.