Best way focus on a tripod

I shot my daughter's wedding a week ago and would like your opinion on the best way to focus on the subject(s). I have a 40D and understand the center focus point is the most accurate.

My question is how to do you maintain focus on the eyes with the center point autofocus and capture the entire subject in the frame while using a tripod? If you hold the camera free-hand, you can easily autofocus on the eyes by pressing the shutter half-way down and move the camera to compose the shot, keeping eyes in focus.

Any tips/tricks are appreciated.

- Richard

Try manually focusing on eye's, recompose and use timer.

I thought of the manual focus idea, but ideally I'm trying to get away from the whole "recompose" thing when many shots have to be taken. Can accurate manual focusing be done on the eyes by looking through the viewfinder?

You can't manual focus and recompose on anything that is moving. No time. I use one of these, got it over 3 years ago and use it all of the time. It's easy to hold the grip with the left hand and the camera with the right, as usual. Just squeeze the grip and it is loose, you can follow anything, including birds in flight. Let go, it locks in place, very steady and good for up to a 10 pound camera.

Thanks Mitch, but I'm shooting portraits and the subjects are still (or supposed to be!). Ideally I don't want to have to move my camera (recompose) the shot. Any comments on manually focusing on the eyes with any kind of accuracy?

Well, if you can see the eyes, you should be able to focus on them, whatever the center point says. Also, using a smaller aperture will ensure the whole face, from the end of the nose to the ears is in focus.

im in for answer too. i was trying to take picture of my mom standing next to the car on a tripod, and its horrible recomposing on tripod. so i just adjust to the smaller aperture and turn the ball head of the tripod with the camera pointing to the eye and recompose down. yeah horrible, i know , im still a noob at portrait on tripod. some one with skill pls shine on.

Try using Live View and magnified manual focusing. I'm not sure about the 40D, but you may be able to use the joybutton to move the focusing mark around the screen the way it can be done on the 5D2. If so, that solves your problem. That's the way I work all the time with my 5D2.

Focusing and recomposing isn't a good idea especially when using large apertures.. Any slight movement of the camera can render any point on which you originally out of focus..

When manually focusing it's best to ignore the focus points.. Compose the shot and focus in and out until the subject pops into focus then hit the button..

Thanks Jurgen. For group portraits it has been suggested to always focus on the eyes of the people in the first row. Looking at them through the viewfinder, is it possible to capture their eyes in focus?

trickyricky wrote in post #7954157
Thanks Jurgen. For group portraits it has been suggested to always focus on the eyes of the people in the first row. Looking at them through the viewfinder, is it possible to capture their eyes in focus?

Richard,,it depends on how far you are away from the group and how large the group is.. You can still focus on something with contrast like clothing etc.. With group shots it's best to use a smallish aperture especially if you have a few rows so you are assured everything is in focus..

How would you handle something like this Jurgen? Please comment on the photo regarding focusing, lighting etc. Thanks.

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trickyricky wrote in post #7954392
How would you handle something like this Jurgen? Please comment on the photo regarding focusing, lighting etc. Thanks.

Richard,,,it's a tad difficult to see if this image is sharp from centre to edge because of it's small size..

When using flash it's important you set your camera to manual exposure.. At this distance I'd be shooting at say 125th @ F/8- 400ISO.. I don't know what lens you used but any wide angle lense will exhibit some distortion and softness at the edges so it's vital you stop the lens down..This will also ensure you have enough depth of field so everything is sharp.. Another trick is to move back and shoot looser so there is no part of the subject at the extremities of the frame,,,you can always crop tighter via post processing..

With static subjects I favour focusing manually..

trickyricky wrote in post #7954392
How would you handle something like this Jurgen? Please comment on the photo regarding focusing, lighting etc. Thanks.

Well, I'm not Jurgen, but:

Focus on the grooms flower. Focus once, then don't focus again: It shouldn't change anyway.
f/8 or so, depending on lens used. (good lens choice here: Usually people use a *way* too wide lens)
Shutterspeed and ISO to get the amount of ambient you want. (more then here)
Flash positioned so the bride is lit in the face. (a bit more directional then here, and also from a bit higher)
Some backlighting to provide a "rim" to separate the dark clothing and hair from the dark BG. Not the border drops away.

If you don't have off camera flash, I'd use ambient to provide the backlighting, and aim the flash to the ceiling, top left. Maybe use a bounce card for some fill.