Canon TS-E 24mm f/3.5L II

+1 on that

jerbear00 wrote in post #14834335
llenuts

Amazing

Subscribing.

Hoping to be able to get this baby in my hands within a fortnight. It surely is going to be an interesting learning curve.

Larger- http://www.frixpix.com …2Bqd/0/X3/017C4​588-X3.jpg

David Arbogast wrote in post #12909461
I've been a bit hesitant to use this lens hand-held, but it is very easy to focus with the view finder using focus-alert. So, here are a couple of hand-held shots:

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IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …6014454345/in/p​hotostream

Great pix! Would you mind decribing the tilt and shift setting for the first shot? Thanks.

yalemba wrote in post #14867201
Great pix! Would you mind decribing the tilt and shift setting for the first shot? Thanks.

Thanks! If I recall correctly the shot of bench involved zero shift and a maximum downward tilt. The irony with that particular experimental tilt-but-no-shift shot is that most of my shots are the exact opposite: shifting, but no tilting.

The water tower is just using the TS-E 24mm as a basic lens - no tilt or shift. Unshifted and untilted: the TS-E 24mm f/3.5L II still makes for an incredible 24mm lens!

How much can you tilt this lens for vertical correction? I'm trying to decide between the 17 and 24mm version for landscapes and cityscapes.

Eight_Blade wrote in post #14867356
How much can you tilt this lens for vertical correction? I'm trying to decide between the 17 and 24mm version for landscapes and cityscapes.

You mean shift, not tilt, right? Shifting is for vertical correction (maintaining verticals), tilting is for tilting the focal plane (for creative focusing).

For you I'm not sure which TS-E to recommend. On the one hand you do a lot of cityscape photography, which is a better fit with the 17mm. But the 17mm has a bulbous unfriendly-to-filters front element, and you like to use ND filters. If you haven't done so already, have a look at iamhydrogen's gorgeous cityscapes with the TS-E 17mm: http://www.flickr.com …gen/tags/canont​se17mmf4l/.

Another consideration is that the telephoto extenders are supposed to work extremely well with the TS-Es and the 1.4x III on the 17mm would make it a 24mm lens. I keep meaning to give this a try, but I've only had my 1.4x for a few weeks and just haven't gotten around to it.

For cityscapes I feel the 17mm creates more drama and the greater fov gets the perspective-corrected tall buildings in the frame better.

Thanks, David. I appreciate your feedback. I'll have to rent one of them and go from there. This is not a cheap piece of glass. I thought you 'tilt' the lens to parallel when your camera is aimed slighty upwards to fill buildings in the frame.

Eight_Blade wrote in post #14867515
Thanks, David. I appreciate your feedback. I'll have to rent one of them and go from there. This is not a cheap piece of glass. I thought you 'tilt' the lens to parallel when your camera is aimed slighty upwards to fill buildings in the frame.

My pleasure. The workflow for maintaining verticals (perspective correction) goes like this:

1. Point the camera in the general direction of the shot.
2. Level the camera (level side-to-side and front-to-back - absolutely no upward tilt). Once the camera is perfectly level, you've neutralized the vertical perspective.
3. Shift the lens up to bring the building(s) into the frame (assuming you're on the ground). Of course if you're on top of a building doing a top-down view, you'd shift down.

Renting is a great idea to find which focal length suits you best. I'm looking forward to learning what you decide. I've looked at your wonderful shots and have thought to myself "Will needs a tilt-shift!" And not just for the shift functionality, but you'll really appreciate the sharpness from either the 17mm or 24mm.

Such a nice and considerate thread!

David Arbogast wrote in post #14867561
My pleasure. The workflow for maintaining verticals (perspective correction) goes like this:

1. Point the camera in the general direction of the shot.
2. Level the camera (level side-to-side and front-to-back - absolutely no upward tilt). Once the camera is perfectly level, you've neutralized the vertical perspective.
3. Shift the lens up to bring the building(s) into the frame (assuming you're on the ground). Of course if you're on top of a building doing a top-down view, you'd shift down.

Renting is a great idea to find which focal length suits you best. I'm looking forward to learning what you decide. I've looked at your wonderful shots and have thought to myself "Will needs a tilt-shift!" And not just for the shift functionality, but you'll really appreciate the sharpness from either the 17mm or 24mm.

Good advice, I also often tilt the camera very slightly backwards when shooting buildings. They can often look unnatural if the verticals are 'too' perfectly upright.
I chose the 24mm over the 17mm, as for most of my work, as the perspective between near and far objects is too 'spaced' out for my liking with the 17mm. I would happily use the 17mm for interiors though.
I hope that helps in your decision making.

I finally was able to get out my newly acquired piece of glass. Though it was a very short trip because of rain.

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/whoisnd/7811496​364/

If anyone gets tired of theirs I've got a 24L ii and cash though I doubt that will happen

There is one for sale on craigslist in Seattle. I'd pick it up, but I don't have the cash.