Canon TS-E 24mm f/3.5L II

I downloaded a thing of the internet previously that showed tilt angles for various heights for a 24mm lens to use as a quick guide. It also says at 1.3m its 1 degree of tilt. This, as MNUplander said, creates a focus "wedge" with the narrow end close to the camera and the wide edge further away.

Assuming the ground, 1.3m below the lens, is completely flat to infinity. It was my thinking that applying this 1 degree of tilt meant that apeture was now irelevant in terms of DOF as it would be possible to focus something at the bottom of the frame (in the foreground) and everything out to infinity would be in focus (as the ground in this scenario is level and the focus wedge is getting wider).

Apeture would only be relevant in terms of exposure but not DOF. <--- This is the bit I'm unsure about.

MNUplander wrote in post #15465430
But, if I flipped the camera into portrait, applied a little tilt and shifted up and down to create a vertorama,

This has also crossed my mind. Tilting down and then shifting left or right shouldnt affect anything but what if you tilt down and then shift down or up?

Maybe I'm over thinking this stuff

xpfloyd wrote in post #15465890
Apeture would only be relevant in terms of exposure but not DOF. <--- This is the bit I'm unsure about.

I believe this is true but there is no substituting to testing in the field! My problem is I never write anything down!

Edit: the other issue is when you are on a hillside and have a drop-off immediately below you. Where then is the wedge?????

Annie - like I said, I'm just learning and I can't begin to say I know what I'm talking about...I was just presenting my theory based on the patchwork of material I've read on the web. What you're saying does make more sense on that one piece we disagreed on and Im inclined to lean toward your way of thinking there.

However, I still think the aperture is relevant for determining the shape of the "wedge" but I have no concrete means of proving it just yet.

MNUplander wrote in post #15466031
Annie - like I said, I'm just learning and I can't begin to say I know what I'm talking about...I was just presenting my theory based on the patchwork of material I've read on the web. What you're saying does make more sense on that one piece we disagreed on and Im inclined to lean toward your way of thinking there.

However, I still think the aperture is relevant for determining the shape of the "wedge" but I have no concrete means of proving it just yet.

My guess is (and this is just a guess) that the aperture influences the thickness of the wedge but I have no evidence for this.

I forgot about this website until just there - it confirms that apeture affects the wedge thickness. Small apertures make a wider wedge the further out it goes - http://www.cambridgein​colour.com …ls/tilt-shift-lenses2.htm

Last two from this trip, I promise:

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/ken2000ac/83677​10480/

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/ken2000ac/83677​39800/

ken2000ac wrote in post #15469966
Last two from this trip, I promise:

These are fantastic - keep 'em coming, I say! Love the blue.

Agreed, keep them coming mate

Here are a couple of web pages discussing tilt & shift techniques.
I'm still a little confused as to if I should focus short & tilt long or the other way round?

http://www.cambridgein​colour.com …ls/tilt-shift-lenses2.htm

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorial​s/focusing-ts.shtml

AnnieMacD wrote in post #15471397
These are fantastic - keep 'em coming, I say! Love the blue.

xpfloyd wrote in post #15471397
Agreed, keep them coming mate

Thanks guys, but that would be the last of 'em!

frizzle wrote in post #15471962
Here are a couple of web pages discussing tilt & shift techniques.
I'm still a little confused as to if I should focus short & tilt long or the other way round?

http://www.cambridgein​colour.com …ls/tilt-shift-lenses2.htm

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorial​s/focusing-ts.shtml

The cambridge colour link seems to suggest focussing first at hyperfocal distance then tilting down to maximise sharpness. I cant verify this as I havent got a hang of tilt yet!

xpfloyd wrote in post #15473886
The cambridge colour link seems to suggest focussing first at hyperfocal distance then tilting down to maximise sharpness. I cant verify this as I havent got a hang of tilt yet!

This guy seems to think you should focus foreground & then tilt background.
http://www.youtube.com​/watch?v=BwJqHgkdfxg


But other web pages have said the complete opposite.