Real Estate Shooters and Distortion Complaints

_GUI_ wrote in post #8132749
It can be used with a single image. You have to inform the program of the focal length used and camera crop factor, and type of lens (rectilinear, fish-eye,...). It will then allow you to transform the image into any other kind of projection.
It can also correct barrel/cushion distortion if you inform about their value.

It's a bit tricky to use, but it works well.

What is this? Toronto's urban redundancy?

HTTP response: NOT FOUND | MIME changed to 'image/png'

BR

That was me cloning out some reflective bits on that laminated wall map!

I'm surprised anyone noticed the cartography falsification! ...good call!

About the program; yes, I did key in as much of the information about my lens as I could get my hands on but some of the values it was asking for, I couldn't readily find any documentation for and quickly got mad at the program for asking me such tough questions!

Cheers!

RPCrowe wrote in post #8133246
I try to reduce the keystoning effect of a UWA lens by using as long a focal length as possible and by attempting to keep the sensor perpendicular to the floor and parallel to the walls as much as possible. This can be usually achieved by keeping the camera as level as possible. Keeping the camera level as possible often means that I often have to shoot from a lower angle than eye level. I like to use a tripod and a right angle finder to shoot rooms. That way, I don't have to stoop down so far to look straight through the viewfinder.

However, there are times when we just have the keystoning effect and need to get rid of that effect using Photoshop or some other photo editing program.
Some perspective control links

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorial​s/perspective.shtml

http://www.larry-bolch.com/perspective/​photoshop.htm

http://www.outbackphot​o.com …erspectiveCorre​ction.html

A very viable alternative to using an UWA lens is to use a longer focal length lens on a tripod and shoot a pano with the camera in the Portrait position. That way, you get a wider view from top to bottom than shooting in the landscape position and your left to right coverage is predicated by the number of images you take.

You can make do with a RRS "L" bracket on your tripod

http://reallyrightstuf​f.com/QR/05.html

Another viable pano solution is to use a specialty Pano head such as the inexpensive but, very workable, Panosaurus.

http://gregwired.com/p​ano/Pano.htm

Panos are pretty easy just with the Photoshot merge program.

Thanks for the shooting tips and links! Much appreciated!

I am getting accustomed to shooting with the 14L now and am being very mindful of my positioning with it! Luckily, the viewfinder on the 1DsMKII is large and bright enough to really let you see when you have thing right or wrong.

I've also been thinking about the L plate adapter for my camera but can't justify handing over close to 200 bucks for a piece of metal that cost them all of 3 bucks to manufature....or there abouts. I hate getting ripped off.

On the whole topic of real estate panos, I do see the use of this technique on a small number of real estate agent sites but doesn't seem to be a mandatory item. Especially for quicker/lower paying gigs where they want the shots yesterday. This seems like it would be counter intuitive to that ethic?

Cheers!

Holy Guacamole! Look what I'm gonna "try" shooting next week.
Link to webpage.

(Yes, I know... I'm NOT a photographer, I'm just a lowly Photoshop/Illustrator hack!) My boss asked me if I wanted to try shooting some featured properties to help reduce the load of our already overworked photography staff. It was mighty nice of him to start me off with a new $2.4 million dollar custom luxury home! Talk about "Trial By Fire"! Well, it will be refreshing to get out of my office and see some New Mexico daylight for a change. If it works out, I'll be doing occasional "featured Properties" for each issue of our glossy magazine. (Right now I only shoot from 10 to 20 single exterior shots of the "affordable properties" each issue.) If it doesn't work out, I get handcuffed to the desk once again.

So... I'll be using my Tokina 11-16 f2.8 and Tamron 17-50 f2.8 and try to minimize the distortion!

ChasP505 wrote in post #8134717
Holy Guacamole! Look what I'm gonna "try" shooting next week.
Link to webpage.

Madre mía qué horterada de casa!

Sorry, I couldn't help it.

BR

Congrats, chasP505!

But there are already some pretty decent pictures on the link you provided. Does this mean you will be expected to top those?

Good luck, amigo! Bring a lot of light with you and things should go well.

Cheers!

The Ghost of FM wrote in post #8135312
Congrats, chasP505!

But there are already some pretty decent pictures on the link you provided. Does this mean you will be expected to top those?

Good luck, amigo! Bring a lot of light with you and things should go well.

Cheers!

I think the boss is expecting something "different". Our primary photographer/videograp​her is an 8-5 salaried employee like me, thus no dramatic twilight shots. As this property is just down the road from me, I'm going to "scout it" this weekend and try to set up some twilight exterior shots. Hopefully at least one will be a candidate for a real estate catalog front cover. Not sure I can do much better with the interior, except maybe try some HDR shots. I have to admit to being very overwhelmed. I've shot exteriors of new custom homes for half page ads before, but this would be the cover photo and a full page (about 8.5" x 11") with 6 pictures.

digirebelva wrote in post #8133410
Question... would multiple images stitched together produce a more faithful image overall than a single image from even a wide angle lense...or would you still run into enough distortion to not make it worthwile?

Perspective would be identical. Lens distortion (barrel distortion for instance) is lens dependant, so might be less.

I've been browsing some architectural photography sites and stitching seems to be very commonly used in lieu of a UWA to minimize distortion.

I just ran into this, I listed an apartment for rent and shot it on my MKIII with a 24 which is not really wide at all. The illusion was still that there was more room than what it looked like in real life, at least to me but no one made any comments. Part of that illusion came from my placing the camera just low enough to prevent parallax by having to tilt up or down and then cropping the top and bottom which created more of a panorama shot.

Hey Ghost, I have never, ever, gotten mad at a software program LOL.

Jannie wrote in post #8138845
Hey Ghost, I have never, ever, gotten mad at a software program LOL.

Have you ever tried to tell PT assembler what the barrel distortion factor of your lens was in numerical terms?

Cheers!