Sekonic 358 and a polarizer filter

Let's see if I can explain, the question I have correctly.

I'm interested in experimenting with my strobes and a polarizer filter. I have read the manual of my Secokic 358 and it talks about setting it so you can have an idea of what a filter takes away in light so you can adjust the meter accordingly.
Now the difference is that in a polarizer you'll get 1 reading first and when you turn it you'll get another reading.

So my question is this. How would you recommend taking the reading? Taking various readings and see which is the part that the filter is at its "strongest"?

This would also help later when using strobes outside and using the polarizing filter to help underexpose the background.

Unless you're specifically looking to eliminate glare I don't find any real difference by rotating the polarizer in a controlled environment. Whatever position you settle on (or a random one for that matter), calibrate your meter or determine an offset for the filter. This is done in the same way you would calibrate your meter without the filter.

Shoot an 18% gray card that is lit evenly at the sweet spot of your lens (lets say f/8 ). Then view the image in your RAW editor (no default settings or processing that affect exposure of contrast) and determine to what degree the central gray spike in the histogram is underexposed. Then use that offset when you meter. So, for instance, if you determine that with the filter, when you shoot at f/8 you need to increase exposure by 1 1/3 stops to center the spike then that is your offset and that means that to shoot at f/8 you need to see f/13 on your meter and set your camera to f/13, or know that when metering f/8 you're really getting f/5.

That is the only logical approach that will give you accurate and consistent results.

thanx for the reply... well I wanted to exploit the feature on the meter but I guess that would be the same as adjusting it for normal exposure so its in sync with the camera. I've read about it (you use a white towel and a grey target)

Are you using polarising filters on the strobes as well as on the lens? if not then you're mostly wasting your time, polarising filters don't affect flash lighting in the same way as sunlight.

Excellent point. I was giving a literal answer to the question but you bring up a very important aspect of working with polarizers in the studio.

I can always count on you to do that Hermes.

Hermes wrote in post #8169319
Are you using polarising filters on the strobes as well as on the lens? if not then you're mostly wasting your time, polarising filters don't affect flash lighting in the same way as sunlight.

Well I've always been interested in trying that, but I don't have any polarising filters for them hehehe. so I gess it would be a waste no? it would be better used when trying to under expose the background outside I guess.

Cuervo79 wrote in post #8169398
Well I've always been interested in trying that, but I don't have any polarising filters for them hehehe. so I gess it would be a waste no? it would be better used when trying to under expose the background outside I guess.

Use a CPL is that is what's needed. Otherwise, I would suggest using a 2 or 3 stop ND filter.

ND filters are still usable for people photography?

Cuervo79 wrote in post #8169516
ND filters are still usable for people photography?

OH YES!!!! Absolutely. I never leave home without my B+W .6 (2 stop) ND filter.

That's good to read. I was thinking of buying ND filters but thought I could only use them for landscape photography. is the B +W model just called .6? I would like to add some to my wishlist.

The 2 stop ND is the #102 MRC Multicoat ND 0.6
You can see it here:

http://www.2filter.com​/prices/products/bwnd.​html

It's the fourth item listed. You can also see the other ND's available.

Thanx

Interesting read about using ND. So, if I was to use 2 stop ND, the light meter read the lighting as 1/125 @ F8, then my aperture = F4 (using same speed)?