Guts311 wrote in post #8221330
Thanks again. I agree as would most about the person not necessarily wanting the exactly correct WB...then every picture would be true to the real-life look. Not everyone wants that all the time!
I am just now delving into doing WB correctly using either CWB with a white card before shooting (and setting it ahead of time), shooting a white card and doing the WB after shooting (in RAW PP), or just using the dropper within the same photo to set its own WB (granted there are some neutral pixels to use). Although I don't see much difference so far between the 3 methods, it is nice to finally have learned each and I can now practice them.
To be honest, I never even thought of WB much, as the AWB on the cam always seemed to do the trick as far as I knew. But seeing some CWBs within the cam or in PP is making me now see what I could/should be shooting
I never realized how important WB was before..it's just as dire as correct exposure, right?
Anyone else have anymore input or tips relating to this stuff??
Actually, one other question, I've read many threads on how to correctly use the white card to get WB. I am a little confused over what I should be looking for with this. Should the white card's photo always have a brightness histogram with right-side spike, middle spike, or not necessarily either? It's tough because when shooting the card, the way it is angled in your hand may create shadow or different lighting on the surface and the histogram is constantly changing and sometimes it's hard to get a right-side spike (if that's what I should be looking for). Also, with certain lenses, it's hard to stretch the card far enough to even get it in focus (plus it's focusing on white, which is difficult).
The eye dropper tool is very unreliable, in my experience is a complete roulette wheel. Even selecting something that is middle grey and click around you will find even in the middle grey the color cast can vary dramatically.
I use a white card for when I am using a custom white balance on the camera ahead of time, I use a grey card when I am going to use it as a guide in post production. I use hand adjustments of white balance/tint when I didn't do either. Very rarely will I use the white balance eye dropper, but I will a lot of the times use it to click around and get an idea what it my options are, 9 out of 10 times it is useless for me.
As for which method works best, it highly depends on how much time you have when you are shooting, that is the key factor, another is how often the light changes. If the light is changing frequently, then using a white/grey card is more difficult. I rarely find eye dropper gives anywhere near the same results, and even when the eye dropper does work, it is almost always a guesstimate. White/grey cards are near exact.
As for the histogram, it is irrelevant. You want the white/grey card to be evenly exposed in the light that is hitting your subject, so technically you can't adjust the exposure of the card without adjusting the exposure of your subject since they should be one and the same.
As for AWB, it is hit or miss, I would say 60% of the time the white balance is off with AWB, especially indoors. Sometimes dramatically. Outdoors AWB will usually provide great results, but don't count on it.